Ant's VR6

[tony_ack 0]

Yep - the part number matches what I have. Thanks for the pics as well - you appear to have quite a bit of clearance for the bottom vent too - does the temp control flap arm (the one near the back) also clear the bottom vent housing okay as well?

 

I had a few problems with the fan part - first there is a rubber mounting on top of the housing near the intake duct - this may need to come off to fit under the Corrado dash. Then there's a drain pipe in the evaporator housing, which I guess you may be able to cut off if you're definitely not installing the aircon. Next, the stud on the evaportor housing didn't quite line up with the hole for me when connected to the heaterbox. Finally, I needed to cut off one of the studs under the dash for mounting the ABS relays (these will have to be moved).

 

For your question, the short answer is I don't know, however since all the wire does is pass a signal from the CC to your Vagcom interface, it should work in theory. I don't know the ins and outs of how OBD2 communicates with Vagcom (or in the Corrado's case OBD1 pretending to be OBD2), but my guess would be that it uses a bitstream - Vagcom will send coded poll requests for each subsystem down the wire, and when the CC unit recognises a poll request meant for it, it will return the requested data back to Vagcom, or perform the requested action (e.g. reset the flaps).

 

I noticed that on the Corrado, there is already something wired into pin 7, however if the above is true, this shouldn't be a problem, as each subsystem does not need its own pin. Also, in the MK4 loom, the CC OBD wire was spliced into quite a few more, so it looks like quite a few systems interface on pin 7.

[VRwood 0]

I thought the climatronic communication was going to be like that, or more like hoped, as I think I've moved the flaps around a bit so will need to reset them!

 

I was hoping to use the large upper mount as an additional mounting point but I havn't offered it up properly yet so it may have to go.

 

I don't know if this makes a difference but I'm using the mk4 heater matrix, it has meant chopping a few hoses about under the bonnet but I wanted to bin the Corrado one.

 

I dont know if the pictures really showed it but the heater box is pressed right up against the insulation under the dash. Let me know if you want any more pictures or anything I'm sure you'll be able to get it in! Can you tell how far off you are from the lower stud meeting the hole?

[fla 9]

Update... I've done a bench test on the ducting system, and it seems to work! A couple of small issues:

 

1. The LCD isn't working properly - I think this is my fault as I disturbed it when I opened up the unit to clean the buttons

2. The flap motors seem to pulse when not in use and make a faint 'ticking' noise as if they're still trying to move a little. I've done a little research and it appears that this is because I need to perform the 'reset' procedure to calibrate the motor/flap positions... the problem is that I need to do this via Vagcom - you can't do it through the cc unit itself. So that means I need to install it before I can see if the reset procedure works. The good news is that the recirculation flap seems fine, as I know these are often a problem.

 

Part of me wants to kick on now and get it installed, but I know I still have one or two things I could do with sorting out first, such as getting the aircon switches and wiring finished off. I think I'm going to do it in two stages - get the unit installed and wired up first (including aircon wiring) then sort out the aircon later.

 

Shopping list for next week:

Air con pressure switch, 4-pin (1H0 959 139 B)

Brown temp sender, 4-pin (replaces black temp sender in thermostat housing - it also acts as the a/c thermal switch)

2x 357 919 754 - these are the wiring harness plugs for both of the above.

 

Once I've got all this, I should be able to complete the wiring.

 

Tony, i want to test the unit i have - what are the key power connections required to link up to a 12V source? I assume the display panle can just be clipped on, but will this then operate the flaps etc?

[tony_ack 0]

I may give the MK4 matrix a try - it could be what is holding me back... I can get the lower stud in the hole just about, but I could do with another cm or so to give me the room I need for the footwell ducting. I will try splitting the unit again to see if I can get the individual parts lined up okay.

 

Hasan - I'm not sure whether you have the loom beyond the CC unit? it makes it a bit easier to test if you do. I can't 100% confrim the wire colours on your will be the same, but you will need to connect at least the thinner black/blue wire to positive, and the thinner brown wire to earth. This should supply power to the unit and to the flap motors. If you want to go further, connect the thicker blue/black wire to positive, and the thicker brown wire to earth to test the blower motor, but you will need at least a 20A supply. You can also connect the blue/grey illumination wire to positive

 

If you connect the control panel, you should be able to get everything (bar the aircon) working

 

Make sure you elevate the unit so the servos on the bottom of the unit can turn okay

[fla 9]

much appreciated Tony

[tonedef 8]

Now I have a question, if I connect the k-line wire from the 10 pin plug to pin 7 on the OBD port do you know whether VAG-COM will be able to speak to the climatronic? I need to as I think you can only reset the flap positions using VAG-COM.

 

I was just looking through the Passat drawings, mine comes from pin T28a/24 but I'm sure that's of little help. My vagcom does though talk to the climatronic controller perfectly well, it took no setting up it just worked from the first time I powered things up, easiest part of the install!

[VRwood 0]

Right, so i've had some sucess getting the fan bit of the CC in which I think will work whether your using the A/C or not.

 

I'd start with the mk4 heater matrix and so long as you can get the lower stud through the bulkhead just pull the centre section into place with the nut, once that lower studs tight it should have pulled the heater section into place so there is enough space for the actuator around the lower vent (with a little trimming!).

 

Once thats in place install the fan bit, its really tricky to do the little clips round the back and needs pressure applying to different areas to get everything to mate up along with a lot of patience, to do this I had to remove the two studs from the back of the fan ducting. With the two bits attached to one another I then put a large self tapper through the top of the fan shroud into the base of the dash, conviently theres a hole pre drilled in about the right place. With that done up its really secure and the fan inlet mates up perfectly with the HVAC inlet. Hopefully this should get you installed, if you need anymore pics/info just let me know!

[24V Renshaw 0]

I always use a passat heater box. Its slightly different due to the higher centre tunnel (like the Corrado) and the studs tend to all line up.

 

The hole through the bulkhead for the evap pipes is different (kind of a big triangular grommet). I used a 50mm panel punch to cut this out.

 

Jay

[tony_ack 0]

Congratulations - I think you've done the hardest part now! Wiring is easy in comparison...

 

Do you think it would be easier or harder to install as one unit, rather than split? I guess with the evaporator studs removed, it may be easier to get everything lines up properly. Do you know what size the self-tapper was? I am guessing it doesn't foul the fan at all.

 

How much trimming did you need for the footwell trim? I cut off a long-ish piece that is closest to the levers when installed - is that all that needs removing?

 

I am guessing that you cut off the evaporator drain pipe? I'm thinking of cutting mine off, and attaching a rubber hose instead to give me a bit more flexibility in finding the hole I'm going to drill in the bulkhead for it.

 

BTW I checked the part number of the evaporator we both had in ETKA (proper ETKA 7.3, not Vagcat) and it's not to be found... weird.

 

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:26 PM ----------

 

Jay - I'm guessing you mean the B4 Passat one? The problem is they're pretty hard to find these days

[VRwood 0]

Doing it the way I did it you will have to split the unit first as I had to manipulate the heater box a fair bit and I'm sure the fan section would get in the way whilst you're doing it.

 

So what I would suggest is:

1, trimming the lower vent - I took about 10mm off this down to the top of the piece of foam which is stuck to it although there is still part of the lip left on mine so you can trim more off if you want

2, Fit the lower guide vent to the heater box

3, Take the two connectors off the mk4 heater matrix, just clipped on

4, Remove the upper location stud

5, Fit the heater box it can be quite tricky to start with but just takes a bit of manipulation to get in, I started by getting the matrix pipes through first then locating the lower stud

6, tighten the lower stud up to pull the heater into the final position, as the heater box moves into its final position it should make more room around the lower linkage/lower vent. At this point though my linkage only just clear but that doesn't matter for the time being for a reason i'll explain later

7, Remove fan from fan vent (makes it easier to manipulate and line up inlet) and 2 studes next to the A/C heat exchanger

8, Mate up fan guide vent, will need to force it toward the bulkhead in order to do up all the little clips, this took me almost an hour as the ones at the back are trickey (it may be worth noting down thew clip orientation as you'll have to do the two round the back completely blind and by feel.

9, Find small hole under dash imediately above the fan shroud in the fan guide vent and make a small hole under it in the fan guide

10, Use on of these http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9280462&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372015}/categories%3C{9372044}/categories%3C{9372215}/specificationsProductType=coach_screws to bolt the two together

 

You'll find as you do this bolt up it pulls the HVAC inlet upto the inlet in the scuttle this also has the effect of pulling the edge of the heater box up creating more clearance between the lower linkage and the lower guide vent.

 

Spend some time before makeing the hole in the fan shroud for the bolt, I made my bolt lean back slightly so it pulled the fan guide piece up and in toward the bulkhead! And yes the bolt head clears the fan with loads of room to spare!

 

Hope that helps, if your stilll struggling with any bit give me a shout!

 

---------- Post added at 11:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------

 

Also to add, mine didn't have the drain on it when it arrived, it was just a hole but I'm sure replacing it with a length of pipe would be fine!

 

---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

 

Can you get the part number for the outside temperature sensor off ETKA for me? I was going to try using my existing one which feeds the MFA but it was reading 38 degrees the other day so I'd rather get a new, hopefully more accurate, one.

[tony_ack 0]

MK4 outside temp sender: 1J0 919 379

Harness plug for sender: 357972752

 

Corrado outside temp sender: 357919379A

 

I have read that the MK4 outside temp sender isn't compatible with the Corrado one, and it's best to run both, but I don't know for certain if that's the case.

 

On the MK4, the temp sender runs to the climatronic, and then a feed from the climatronic goes to the MFA (the thinner blue/red wire)

 

---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------

 

I'm going to give it another go tomorrow morning

 

3. will the hoses be secure enough without the connectors?

6. This is what I didn't do last time - I just got the stud in, not tight, and it was nowhere near the right place. It makes sense that tightening it would give a lot more clearance

8. I remember doing this when changing a MK2 heater matrix, and there was a lot more room behind that!

Edited August 6, 2011 by tony_ack

[VRwood 0]

Sorry I wasn't particularly clear about point 3, you'll have to reconnect those fittings once you've got the heater box in place, removing them just gives you a little more clearance getting the matrix outlet through the bulkhead!

 

Good luck with the fitting today and thanks for the part numbers!

[VRwood 0]

Just a quick update, got everything wired up today and it all seems to be working fine!

 

Got a couple of questions though:

 

I don't have the external temp sensor connected up yet but the panel is displaying another temp which looks about right so I'm guessing its getting this from another sensor does anyone know which one?

 

Also when I came to connect the VSS wire up I used the VSS feed from the radio the blue/white wire however, this just looks to have 12v on it? Is this the correct VSS signal wire as I was expecting it to be either a 0-5v or 0-12v PWM type signal?

 

Oh and finally it looks like the demist vent will need modification as its about 20mm from lining up properly, I think it should be fairly easy to mod though, I'll get some pictures when I've done it!

[tony_ack 0]

It will be getting the temperature reading from the sensor in the fresh air intake duct

 

Not too sure about the speed signal wire - I've not checked the voltage across mine, but I know it works as the radio does auto-level the volume depending on my speed.

 

I've had a bit of a disaster on mine today (again)... I managed to get it in fairly easily as one piece - it took about 10 minutes to get the lower stud through the hole, but I got there in the end. I drilled the hole for the self tapper, and started to tighten. It started to pull it all up but then I realised it wasn't getting any tighter. It turned out that the mounting on top of the fan housing was stopping it going up any further (I had cut about half of it off previously). I decided to try and cut the rest off, but there wasn't room for the Dremel. No worries, I just removed the screw again and pulled the fan housing towards me a little for access and... SNAP. The unit was split in two. The clips were all loose in the middle, and on further inspection I realised they'd sheared off the plastic they were attached to.

 

I tried to plastic weld the broken bits back on, but it wasn't strong enough. Unfortunately I don't have a stockpile of climatronic ducting units, and I needed the car back on the road by Monday, so I had to do the best with what I had. I am planning to get a replacement unit, but I had to build the car up again as it was. I trimmed off the offending mount, put the self tapper back in and used duck tape where the unit had split to try to reduce the amount of air escaping.

 

On the plus side, air loss is minimal - it's an improvement over the old heater controls as I had no direction control on them (snapped control levers) but it really does need fixing. I built the dash back up this afternoon. I still need to trim the passenger undertray and glovebox, but at least the car is drivable now.

 

To top it off, I went to start the car to go home, and there was nothing. The ignition lights came on okay, the relays clicked, but when I turned to start, the starter wouldn't engage at all. After some investigation, I found it was a wire near the ignition switch - it had been cut by a previous owner to have a push button start - but I had removed it again, but only used a crimp connector to reattach the ignition switch. Because I had been pulling at the fusebox, the connection had come loose. No messing around this time - I soldered it properly.

 

It was nice that the climate control worked on the way home! It was fairly cool outside (15 degrees) - I set the cabin to 18, but it was still putting out warm air... that said I never felt too warm, so it must have been doing its job. I also noticed the revs were a tad high, but they dropped again when I pressed the ECON button. I haven't even wired the compressor in yet!

 

---------- Post added at 11:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 PM ----------

 

I also noticed the bit about the windscreen vent - I have a feeling mine never fitted properly. It attaches to the cc unit okay when screwed to the bulkhead, but there's a gap between the vent and the dash. The centre vents don't quite line up either.

[tony_ack 0]

Here are some pics... sorry there aren't more but I will get some more when I swap it all for a non-broken ducting.

 

The unit:

 

 

 

 

Golf MK4 wiring loom:

 

 

The trimmed footwell vent

 

 

Dismantling the dash

 

 

The remains of the bolt that set me back 2 hours

 

 

Not the neatest hole, but it does the trick

 

 

Nice splice though!

 

 

Removing the ABS relay stud

 

 

Almost-fitted ducting (pre-disaster)

 

[tony_ack 0]

Here are some random pics of the car as a whole that I took before

 

First Aid Kit - £8 off ebay, perfect fit in the armrest!

 

 

 

 

Cup holder - needs to be beige but the paint peeled off on the first attempt

 

 

 

Restored interior (before it got dirty again this week)

 

 

 

Some outside vanity shots

 

 

 

[fla 9]

interior looks superb! Forgot to add, the pics of the climatronic are great, that loom looks scarey though...

Edited August 7, 2011 by fla

[tony_ack 0]

Thanks - the interior isn't perfect, but looks pretty decent now for an 'old' car!

 

The loom isn't as bad as it looks - I found the CC plugs straight away. It took me some time to trace back all the wires, but I got there in the end. The most time-consuming thing was separating the bits I needed out of the main loom - especially the A/C signal wires and outside temp sender wire which ran the full length of the engine loom.

 

I've got two errors on the Climatronic

1. No vehicle stationary signal (not sure the Corrado has an output for this)

2. Aircon pressure warning (not surprising since there's not aircon)

[poll250 0]

Great work, love the idea of Climatronic aircon, but the wiring scares me and theres no room in the bay for any Aircon gubbins!

 

That leather looks like it's never been sat in before, so good work cleaning that up!

[VRwood 0]

Have you modified your lower shelf yet? I've just finished doing the glovebox but I’m not really sure how to approach the shelf as obviously its constantly visible so needs a little more care than just lopping the back of the glovebox off with a jigsaw!

[tonedef 8]

Have you modified your lower shelf yet? I've just finished doing the glovebox but I’m not really sure how to approach the shelf as obviously its constantly visible so needs a little more care than just lopping the back of the glovebox off with a jigsaw!

 

I was trying to find a photo of mine to post but haven't got any on my computer and I'm hundreds of miles from my car up in Aberdeen until Friday.

 

Basically I cut the back off the shelf until I could get it to fit into the car and then cut a piece of plywood to blank the back off. The plywood is then covered with a piece of carpet I cut from an old floor mat and stuck in with spray glue......it is however a perfect dark grey colour to match the interior. The shelf I have left is only about 20mm deep, enough for a couple of biros and little else!!!

 

Only difficult bit if I remember right is that it took away one of the fixing holes for the screws that go into the centre console so maybe I ended up having to make a new hole......I don't remember exactly as it was way back in 2006 that I did mine.

 

It's out of the car at the moment as I've not got around to refitting everything since I had the dash out for my OBD2 wiring so I can probably get some pictures at the weekend if you like.

[VRwood 0]

Thats pretty much the approach I was thinking of going for, if you've got time to grab a photo or two over the weekend though that would be great thanks!

[tony_ack 0]

Not done the shelf yet either - I've done the glovebox - I cut out a section in the middle of the glovebox, and then plastic welded the back 1/3 of the glovebox to the front 1/3. I then put some duck tape around the exterior for a bit more support, and also some cotton loom tape over the join inside to smooth it all out.

 

I started cutting the lower dash but my Dremel's battery ran out. As Tony says, it's just going to be a case of cutting it smaller and smaller until it fits. I'm hoping to plastic weld again, possibly using some of the off cuts to make the backing, and I've got some black felt stuff from Hobbycraft (usually reserved for Rattle Patrol) if it needs tidying up.

[fla 9]

on the diavia install the back of the shelf is cut back, but only on htree sides, teh forth is the 'folding edge' and it is just folded up and stuck with a hot glue gun. I'll measure the depth of mine later if that helps although i suspect that the climatronic handling unit may be thicker?

[tony_ack 0]

Here is the panel in the dash... the ashtray looks wonky because it is - one of the clips has broken