Ant's VR6

[tony_ack 0]

Right!

 

I've learnt to my cost tonight that the 12+10 pin climatronic loom is the best way to go if you're using a MK4 donor, or anything else off the A4 platform. The 17+12 pin setup I have appears to use a more advanced 14-pin fan controller, and uses a completely different aircon pressure switch setup (matching the 'from May 01' in the wiring diagrams above) which routes everything through the fan controller. I found out after spending absolutely ages this evening dismantling the MK4 loom (still got some way to go yet!)

 

All is not lost though... I've compared the Climatronic loom pinouts and I think I can convert mine to match an earlier setup with a little fettling to give me the right outputs for a 10-pin fan controller. The earlier MK4 setups still retain the pressure switch and thermal switch in line between the CC unit and the fan controller, and the fan controller is very similar to that on late VR6s and the Passat Tony used. Without wanting to sound too far ahead of myself, I think I've worked out about 95% of the wiring - the only bits I need to work out is firstly the changes on the Stage 1 switch wiring - it looks slightly different on the clima diagrams to a standard 3 stage setup, so I imagine that has something to do with engaging stage 1 when aircon is switched on. Also, on the MK4, there appear to be two power inputs into the fan controller, and only one on the Passat diagrams..

 

 

 

I think I'm going to go for a MK3/Passat VR6 compressor and associated pressure/thermal switches as it needs to be compatible with my existing fan controller setup.

[tony_ack 0]

I've stripped the remainder of the wiring from the MK4 loom today, and now I've also re-attached the photo sensor to the loom. I may still need to do some fettling with the cc loom to get it compatible with the correct A/C setup, though now I'm starting to think it may just work 'as-is'...

 

Revised climatronic wiring pinout (17-pin)

 

17-pin CC connector:

1 - (Sw/Bl) - Blower motor live feed - wire from N1 in fusebox (use original wire)

2 - NOT USED

3 - (Bl/Ro) - 'Aircon 'on' switch (inside cabin). Conencts to pin 39 on VR6 ECU - OBDI and OBDII, wire is the same colour

4 - (Br/Gr) - RPM signal, U1/6 on fusebox

5 - (Sw/bl) Live feed for the control unit - from a 10A circuit (I'm going to use fuse 13 as it is kind of what the early MK4s do (connect to A1/7 in fusebox)

6 - Earth

7 -(ro/gr) don't think this needs connecting

8 - Outside temp sender pin 2 (this needs the wiring and sensor from the donor), sunlight sensor

9 - NOT USED

10 - (Gr/Bl) - panel illumination - use the wiring from the old heater controls illumination

11 - (Ro/ge) - pin 2 of fan controller (or is this not required?!?)

12 - (Gn) - 'Aircon 'on' switch (at compressor) Pin 37 of the VR6 ECU, wire is the same colour

13-17 - NOT USED

 

12 pin CC connector:

1 - (gr/ws) OBD II port, pin 7

2 - (Br/Bl) Aircon pressure switch pin 2

3 - NOT USED

4 - NOT USED

5 - (ge/br) Outside temp sender, pin 1

6 - NOT USED

7 - NOT USED

8 - (gr/ws) Sunlight sensor, pin 3

9 - (sw/ws) Air con thermal cut off switch, pin 1

10 - (Bl/ws) - Speed sensor - comes from W1 of the fusebox, but I suspect you can tap into the feed to the ISO connectors for the radio.

11 - NOT USED

12 - (bl/ro) - don't need to connect

 

Fan Controller (later VR6 and/or aircon)

1 - ro/ws - Aux water pump

2 - ro/ge - T17/11 of climatronic harness (if needed), pin 3 of aircon pressure switch

3 - splice into wire from AC thermal switch

4 - br/ws - fan run-on switch

5 - sw/gn - Stage 3 switch

6 - br - earth

7 - ro/sw - rad fan switch (pin 3)

8 - Gn/ws - AC Thermal cut off switch pin 2

9 - Live feed

10 - gn/ws - aircon clutch pin 1

 

Rad fan switch

1 - Radiator fan pin 2 - note: requires uprated wiring

2 - Ign Live (no change)

3 - pin 7 of fan contoller (no change)

 

 

Fan controller inputs/outputs

1 - Output - (activates Aux water pump)

2 - Input - Climatronic (not sure what it does..?)

3 - Input - Activate Stage 1 fan

4 - Input - Activate fan-run on (is this just another 'activate stage 1' signal?

5 - Input - Activate Stage 3 fan

6 - EARTH

7 - Input - Activate Stage 2 fan

8 - Input - Activate aircon compressor

9 - Input - Ignition on signal

10 - Output - (activates aircon clutch)

 

1 - Output (activates cooling fans, full speed)

2 - Output (activates cooling fans, med speed)

3 - Output (activates cooling fans, low speed)

4 - Battery Live

 

Aircon pressure switch

1 - sw/ws - AC thermal cut off switch pin 1

2 - CC pin 12/2

3 - fan controller pin 2

4 - Live (fuse 13, A1/7)

 

On non A/C cars, pin 3 is the input to the fan controller telling it that the thermoswitch for stage 1 has been activated.

 

The changes to the fan controller pin 3 inputs for CC are due to stage 1 being activated if aircon is switched on (it is needed to cool the a/c rad). In the CC setup, Stage 1 is triggered directly from the thermo switch and bypasses the controller completely under normal operation. The aircon 'on' signals use the old input from the stage 1 thermoswitch to activate stage 1 when aircon is switched on. Because stage 1 is now activated directly by the thermo switch, you need to uprate your wiring from there to the fan.

 

I'm still trying to work out what pin 2 on the fan controller does, as on the Passat setup this connects back to the CC unit - I don't think it's needed to activate the aircon, so what does it do??

 

Also, I'm not 100% sure on the wires to the ECU from the CC unit - how does the CC unit know that AC has been activated correctly?

[tonedef 8]

I'm still trying to work out what pin 2 on the fan controller does, as on the Passat setup this connects back to the CC unit - I don't think it's needed to activate the aircon, so what does it do??

 

Looking at the Passat drawings (set 71 pages 6 to 8 ) and the layout diagram in the manual (which unfortunately features a stage 2 relay rather than a fan controller and you therefore have to guess a bit!) Fan controller pin 10/2 is the >15bar start fan stage 2 signal. 12V comes from 10A fuse S13 at relay plate pin A1/7 to distribution point L47 and then by black/white wire to F129 pin 4....the other side of the contact (F129 pin 3) connects via blue wires to Fan Controller J293 pin 10/2, CC controller J255 pin 28A/2 and ECU pin 68/39. The second contact in pressure switch F129 is the system permissive signal which confirms pressure is >2bar and

 

The two contacts to the ECU are (on mine at least) a green or maybe green/white wire which is CC enabled and a blue wire which is fan stage 2 activated (above).

 

Fan run on is not exactly the same as stage 1 is it as the auxiliary water pump also has to run in that situation?

Edited July 30, 2011 by tonedef

[tony_ack 0]

Looking at the Passat drawings (set 71 pages 6 to 8 ) and the layout diagram in the manual (which unfortunately features a stage 2 relay rather than a fan controller and you therefore have to guess a bit!) Fan controller pin 10/2 is the >15bar start fan stage 2 signal. 12V comes from 10A fuse S13 at relay plate pin A1/7 to distribution point L47 and then by black/white wire to F129 pin 4....the other side of the contact (F129 pin 3) connects via blue wires to Fan Controller J293 pin 10/2, CC controller J255 pin 28A/2 and ECU pin 68/39. The second contact in pressure switch F129 is the system permissive signal which confirms pressure is >2bar and

 

The two contacts to the ECU are (on mine at least) a green or maybe green/white wire which is CC enabled and a blue wire which is fan stage 2 activated (above).

 

Fan run on is not exactly the same as stage 1 is it as the auxiliary water pump also has to run in that situation?

 

Thanks again for the continued help!

 

I also have found the wiring diagram for the 3 stage fan controller on a Golf VR6 - I'm guessing this will be pretty much the same as a non-aircon Corrado.

 

From what you're saying, it looks to me like what happens is that the stage 2 cooling is activated if the pressure in the aircon system gets too high, which kind of makes sense as high pressure could be indicative of increased temperature in the coolant.

 

There is then the question of the wire at junction L39 (connects high pressure switch to 10/2 on fan contoller, and cc unit) - at first I thought this was a feed from climatronic to the fan contoller, but now I'm thinking it's a feed back to the climatronic unit to signal that the high pressure switch has been triggered and to shut off the A/C?

 

With this in mind, I would guess that in order for the A/C compressor to activate, a signal needs to be received from the cc, the low pressure switch must be closed (opens if pressure too low) and the thermal switch must be closed (opens if temp too high). Then for the high pressure switch, it remains open until the pressure gets too high, then closes to activate stage 2, and send a signal back to the CC (which may then shut off the A/C signal).

 

If this is the case though, I'm not too sure why a signal would need to be sent to the ECU to say that the aircon pressure is high/stage 2 activated - there's no equivalent signal in the non-aircon setup.

 

My confusion with the ECU feeds is that on the MK4 setup both feeds to the ECU come directly from the CC control unit, but how does the CC unit know that the compressor has been activated? The CC sends the original signal to activate the aircon, and probably sends the ECU signal then, but the signal passes through two switches before reaching the compressor, and the CC unit does not seem to have any 'knowledge' of these switches.. Do you know which ECU pins the two wires connect to? I assumed they were pin 37 and pin 39, but these are both 'aircon on' signals (one from the cabin, one from the compressor) as far as I was aware.

 

Good point about the fan run-on - luckily I don't need to touch that!

g3radfan3speed.pdf

[tony_ack 0]

Update... I've done a bench test on the ducting system, and it seems to work! A couple of small issues:

 

1. The LCD isn't working properly - I think this is my fault as I disturbed it when I opened up the unit to clean the buttons

2. The flap motors seem to pulse when not in use and make a faint 'ticking' noise as if they're still trying to move a little. I've done a little research and it appears that this is because I need to perform the 'reset' procedure to calibrate the motor/flap positions... the problem is that I need to do this via Vagcom - you can't do it through the cc unit itself. So that means I need to install it before I can see if the reset procedure works. The good news is that the recirculation flap seems fine, as I know these are often a problem.

 

Part of me wants to kick on now and get it installed, but I know I still have one or two things I could do with sorting out first, such as getting the aircon switches and wiring finished off. I think I'm going to do it in two stages - get the unit installed and wired up first (including aircon wiring) then sort out the aircon later.

 

Shopping list for next week:

Air con pressure switch, 4-pin (1H0 959 139 B)

Brown temp sender, 4-pin (replaces black temp sender in thermostat housing - it also acts as the a/c thermal switch)

2x 357 919 754 - these are the wiring harness plugs for both of the above.

 

Once I've got all this, I should be able to complete the wiring.

[tonedef 8]

Thanks again for the continued help!

 

I also have found the wiring diagram for the 3 stage fan controller on a Golf VR6 - I'm guessing this will be pretty much the same as a non-aircon Corrado.

 

From what you're saying, it looks to me like what happens is that the stage 2 cooling is activated if the pressure in the aircon system gets too high, which kind of makes sense as high pressure could be indicative of increased temperature in the coolant.

 

There is then the question of the wire at junction L39 (connects high pressure switch to 10/2 on fan contoller, and cc unit) - at first I thought this was a feed from climatronic to the fan contoller, but now I'm thinking it's a feed back to the climatronic unit to signal that the high pressure switch has been triggered and to shut off the A/C?

 

With this in mind, I would guess that in order for the A/C compressor to activate, a signal needs to be received from the cc, the low pressure switch must be closed (opens if pressure too low) and the thermal switch must be closed (opens if temp too high). Then for the high pressure switch, it remains open until the pressure gets too high, then closes to activate stage 2, and send a signal back to the CC (which may then shut off the A/C signal).

 

If this is the case though, I'm not too sure why a signal would need to be sent to the ECU to say that the aircon pressure is high/stage 2 activated - there's no equivalent signal in the non-aircon setup.

 

My confusion with the ECU feeds is that on the MK4 setup both feeds to the ECU come directly from the CC control unit, but how does the CC unit know that the compressor has been activated? The CC sends the original signal to activate the aircon, and probably sends the ECU signal then, but the signal passes through two switches before reaching the compressor, and the CC unit does not seem to have any 'knowledge' of these switches.. Do you know which ECU pins the two wires connect to? I assumed they were pin 37 and pin 39, but these are both 'aircon on' signals (one from the cabin, one from the compressor) as far as I was aware.

 

Good point about the fan run-on - luckily I don't need to touch that!

 

Starting at your second post first.......well done on getting the system working on the bench, krnau did the same thing and I was really impressed when he'd done it too, I just threw everything into the car first and then figured out the wiring after......I believe your way is possibly better!!!

 

As I see it the 12V from F129 pin 3 simply goes to three systems to inform that stage 2 fan is running, fan controller, CC and ECU. The A/C is not shut off until fan stage 3 is called for through pins 1 and 2 of F129.

 

Looking at sheet 71/8 there's a signal from CC at line 89 (originates from line 41 of drg) which goes to F129 pin 2 on a blue/green, if F129 is healthy i.e. >2bar &

 

I have a list which suggests those names for ECU pins 37 & 39, we're probably looking at the same list....I'm not sure if that's exactly right looking at the wiring as there seems to be a bit more to it than that. Even if you look right back to the Diavia system there are are two signals to ECU from A/C, I never really gave it any thought as to why there weren't any in a standard stage 2 set up. Certainly A/C on will need to kick the revs slightly, maybe A/C on and stage 2 fan needs some more???

 

I seem to remember that the wiring to the ECU is already there in the car......there should be a yellow 2 pin plug on green and blue wires above the relay plate/fuse box. I could have a look in mine if I really needed to but I'd prefer not to pull the wiring out again as it's horrible up there! The yellow plug in the centre of this photo from my OBD2 loom is T2n which is the ECU plug you're looking for in the mass of spare wires Corrados seem to come with (ignore the loose wires on the right). The black one below it is T5c which carries the majority of the CC controller to fan controller signals in mine at least.

[tony_ack 0]

Had a day off from it yesterday, as my brain was starting to scramble! Instead I looked at why my headlights weren't working - it turned out that it was one of the relays in the uprated loom after all. I also had a look around under the bonnet... first I noticed that I definitely have the 10-pin fan controller, so that should make it easier. Secondly, I noticed that the vac reservoir for the schrick may be in the way of where the aircon expansion valve goes through the bulkhead, so I may need to relocate that.

 

Tony - the aircon wiring makes much more sense the way you've put it. Looking again at the MK4 diagrams, it looks like there is a signal wire back to the CC unit after every stage, and the list of compressor error codes support this. Looking at the 24v wiring diagram on page 23/7, there is a junction between the green wire coming out of the thermal switch F163 and two wires into the fan contoller... the document states that this connects to L68 which is 'Connection 2 (Sensor) in climatronic wiring harness) but it's not obvious where exactly that is. It's definitely a feed back to the cc, as L68 is an earth point, not a live feed. I realise that this isn't the same as your install, but am I missing something obvious regarding where it connects to? The only green wire on the cc plugs is for the ECU feed ) (A/C 'on' compressor feed)

 

I think it may be an idea to use the bench setup and knowledge of the compressor error codes to test the aircon wires and see what error each one throws.

[tony_ack 0]

Latest pinouts...

 

 

Revised climatronic wiring pinout (17-pin)

 

17-pin CC connector:

1 - (Sw/Bl) - Blower motor live feed - wire from N1 in fusebox (use original wire)

2 - NOT USED

3 - (Bl/Ro) - 'Aircon 'on' switch (inside cabin). Conencts to pin 39 on VR6 ECU - OBDI and OBDII, wire is the same colour. Sends signal to ECU indicating aircon activated on controls

4 - (Br/Gr) - RPM signal, U1/6 on fusebox

5 - (Sw/bl) Live feed for the control unit - from a 10A circuit (I'm going to use fuse 13 as it is kind of what the early MK4s do (connect to A1/7 in fusebox)

6 - Earth

7 -(ro/gr) don't think this needs connecting - only applies to post-2001 setups with aircon thrust sensor.

8 - Outside temp sender pin 2 (this needs the wiring and sensor from the donor), sunlight sensor

9 - NOT USED

10 - (Gr/Bl) - panel illumination - use the wiring from the old heater controls illumination

11 - (Ro/ge) - Signal from Aircon pressure switch, pin 3 (indicates high pressure in a/c system)

12 - (Gn) - 'Aircon 'on' switch (at compressor) Signal from pin 37 of the VR6 ECU, or brown temp sender pin 1 (or splice into anywhere between the two). Indicates aircon compressor has been activated by fan controller

13-17 - NOT USED

 

12 pin CC connector:

1 - (gr/ws) OBD II port, pin 7

2 - (Br/Bl) Signal to aircon pressure switch pin 2, initiates aircon

3 - NOT USED

4 - (gr) Live feed from fusebox for aircon signal, 5A required, but no 5A in Corrado fuse box, so may just take fuse 13 again. Or poss fuse 6, but that's 20A..

5 - (ge/br) Outside temp sender, pin 1

6 - NOT USED

7 - NOT USED

8 - (gr/ws) Sunlight sensor, pin 3

9 - (sw/ws) Signal from A/C pressure switch, pin 1 - indicates low pressure in A/C system

10 - (Bl/ws) - Speed sensor - comes from W1 of the fusebox, but I suspect you can tap into the feed to the ISO connectors for the radio.

11 - NOT USED

12 - (bl/ro) - don't need to connect (this is the signal from the outside temp sender routed through the cc, to the dash clocks)

 

Fan Controller (later VR6 and/or aircon)

1 - ro/ws - Aux water pump

2 - ro/ge - pin 3 of aircon pressure switch

3 - A/C thermal cut off switch pin 2

4 - br/ws - fan run-on switch

5 - sw/gn - Stage 3 switch

6 - br - earth

7 - ro/sw - yellow temp sender (pin 3)

8 - Gn/ws - AC Thermal cut off switch pin 2

9 - Live feed

10 - gn/ws - aircon clutch pin 1

 

Coolant temp sender (yellow)

1 - Radiator fan pin 2 - note: requires uprated wiring

2 - Ign Live (no change)

3 - pin 7 of fan contoller (no change)

 

Coolant temp sender (brown - replaces black sender on VR6)

1 - fan controller pin 8, ECU pin 37

2 - Ign live (no change)

3 - Fan controller pin 5 (no change)

4 - Aircon pressure switch, pin 1

 

 

Aircon pressure switch

1 - sw/ws - Brown temp sender pin 4, climatronic loom pin 12/9

2 - CC pin 12/2

3 - ro/ge fan controller pin 2

4 - Live (fuse 13, A1/7)

 

---------- Post added at 08:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 PM ----------

 

Climatronic (control unit) input/outputs

 

There are 4 connectors, 2x16 pin, 20 pin and 12pin

16a

1 -

2 - Temp regulator flap motor live

3 - Footwell/defrost flap motor earth

4 - Central flap motor earth

5 - Air flow flap motor earth

6 - unknown, but need to bridge with 7 on this setup

7 - unknown, suspect this is a/c thrust sensor signal (not required, but must bridge with pin 6 to bypass)

8 -

9 - CC control unit live feed

10 - Temp regulator flap motor earth

11 - Footwell/defrost flap motor live

12 - Central flap motor live

13 - Air flow flap motor live

14 -

15 - Earth for cc unit

16 -

 

20

1 - Outside Temperature sensor (output signal to clocks, not required)

2 -

3 -

4 -

5 - Floor outlet temperature input signal

6 -

7 - Evaporator temp input signal

8 - Temp regulator flap motor position sensor input signal

9 - Central flap motor position sensor input signal

10 - Footwell/defrost flap position sensor input signal

11 -

12 -

13 - Vehichle stationary input signal (not used unless the Corrado has an output for this?

14 -

15 -

16 -

17 - Back pressure flap motor sensor input signal

18 - Photo sensor input signal

19 -

20 -

 

12

1 - OBD2 diagnostic port output signal

2 - Aircon live feed output

3 - Aircon 'on' output signal to ECU

4 -

5 - Illumination power input

6 -

7 - Fresh air intake duct temp sensor input signal

8 - Outside temp sensor input signal

9 - Earth for sensors I

10 -

11 -

12 - Earth for sensors II

 

16b

1 -

2 - Low pressure in A/C input signal

3 -

4 - Speed sensor input signal

5 -

6 - Engine speed input signal

7 - Ignition live feed input (used to power A/C)

8 - Earth for sensors III

9 -

10 - High pressure in A/C input signal

11 - Blower motor controller sensor

12 - Aircon 'On' input signal from ECU

13 -

14 - Blower motor power output

15 - Blower motor output signal

 

Fan controller inputs/outputs

1 - Output - (activates Aux water pump)

2 - Input - High pressure in A/C system indicator (activate stage 2)

3 - Input - Activate Stage 1 fan

4 - Input - Activate fan-run on

5 - Input - Activate Stage 3 fan

6 - EARTH

7 - Input - Activate Stage 2 fan

8 - Input - Activate aircon compressor

9 - Input - Ignition on signal

10 - Output - (activates aircon clutch)

 

1 - Output (activates cooling fans, full speed)

2 - Output (activates cooling fans, med speed)

3 - Output (activates cooling fans, low speed)

4 - Battery Live

 

Aircon pressure switch inputs/outputs

1 - Signal feed for aircon (out) - Low pressure 'OK' signal

2 - Signal feed for aircon (in from CC)

3 - Signal feed for aircon (out) - High pressure 'OK' signal

4 - Live feed to aircon (in from fusebox)

 

Brown temp sender inputs/outputs

1 - Signal feed for aircon (out) - High temp 'OK' signal

2 - Ignition live

3 - Signal feed for stage 3 cooling (out)

4 - Signal feed for aircon (in from a/c pressure switch)

Edited August 2, 2011 by tony_ack

[fla 9]

Great info - i need to try and understand it further to make any meaningful contribution though.

[tony_ack 0]

Going for the install today!

 

Can't do the aircon yet, but I want to do the dash-side of things.

 

Nervous.

 

Hasan - Is it the early Polo (94-99) or late Polo condenser you used? They definitely look shorter and more slam panel friendly

[fla 9]

its the late one

[tonedef 8]

Going for the install today!

 

Can't do the aircon yet, but I want to do the dash-side of things.

 

Nervous.

 

Hasan - Is it the early Polo (94-99) or late Polo condenser you used? They definitely look shorter and more slam panel friendly

 

Sorry I missed this earlier, everyone keeps dumping paper on my desk this morning and I don't seem to be getting through any of it!

 

Good luck with the install, it's all straight forward and bolts into place just like it belongs there........except maybe for the parcel shelf big enough to hold one pen that you are left with???

 

I've been looking at the condensers with the drier built in from various random VAG motors, thinking I might try going that route which will get rid of one piece of piping. There are a number of condensers that seem to have both connections in the bottom left corner (looking from the front of the car) which would only need one short pipe connecting from compressor to condenser and then some kind of modification to get from condenser to evaporator pipe.......would certainly neaten things up a bit.

[tony_ack 0]

Tony - I'm looking at using a MK3 VR6 drier - simply because the pressure switch plugs into the housing on the drier, rather than into one of the pipes. As I'm going to need custom pipework made up, it saves having to have a special bit made to house the pressure switch. It does mean I'll have to run the wires right to the front though

 

Cheers for the condenser info - I will look into it, and have a think about how to mount it. Moving the rad back is a no-no as there is less than 1/2 cm room there as it is with the Schrick

 

So the install (so far)...

 

Been a bit of a rough day to be honest. I had the dash out and heaterbox out in less than an hour, but the lowest fastener for the heaterbox had obviously snapped when the matrix was replaced by a previous owner. Rather than remove the stud, they just left it in there, so I needed to get it out to carry on. And what a ******* job it was. 2 hours, 5 broken drill bits and 1 broken dremel, and 1 scratched bulkhead later, I finally got the twisted remains of the stud out.

 

Next I had to marry up the new ducting - unfortunately the MK4 ducting isn't quite plug and play, and I'm going to have to do quite a bit of chopping to get it in. 3 studs out of 4 line up, and I need to drill to get the other one in. Then I need to cut a fairly big hole in the bulkhead for the evaporator pipes, which I tried to do, but my dremel had already had it from getting the stud out. I'll also need to drill a hole for a little outlet pipe at the bottom of the ducting. Finally, there's a big mounting next to the inlet flap which gets in the way of the Corrado bulkhead, so that'll have to be cut off too. Obviously because I'd already killed my dremel, I couldn't get any further with the physical install, so I started on the wiring.

 

That was surprisingly easy. I got some pretty neat splices in and I'm getting pretty handy with the soldering iron now! There were no real surprises anywhere (except the wiring to the clocks was pretty much all white, so I had to trace them back to the plug to find the rpm wire), and by the end of the day I had the system working off the car's power (not had chance to do any diagnostics yet though). I've run the engine bay wiring down the left hand side of the engine bay, as there was a hole already in the bulkhead there, which I suspect is for the alarm wiring. The outside temp sender is just cable tied to the horn wiring in the bumper at the moment until I can find a better place for it.

 

---------- Post added at 09:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 PM ----------

 

I have taken pics by the way, but got a little side tracked when I got stuck on the stud - I'll get some more pics taken tomorrow of the bits that are going to need some chopping-work.

[24V Renshaw 0]

Easiest way to cut the holes in the bulkhead is with a panel punch, very neat and tidy.

 

Jay

[tony_ack 0]

Cheers Jay - unfortunately I don't have a panel punch and am not going to be able to get for today... I think I'm just going to have to be as neat and tidy as I can be with the cutter for the big rectangular bit, and I've got a step drill bit for the holes, if needed

[tony_ack 0]

I've wasted 2 days now only to find out that the mk4 unit DOES NOT FIT in the corrado. All the studs are in the wrong place - not by a massive amount but they're not going to line up to the corrado holes. I've checked vagcat again to confirm the part numbers, and the unit I have isn't even listed at all against a mk4 golf. Now I have a car I can't use and no.way of getting it back on the road until I find something that fits

[tonedef 8]

I've wasted 2 days now only to find out that the mk4 unit DOES NOT FIT in the corrado. All the studs are in the wrong place - not by a massive amount but they're not going to line up to the corrado holes. I've checked vagcat again to confirm the part numbers, and the unit I have isn't even listed at all against a mk4 golf. Now I have a car I can't use and no.way of getting it back on the road until I find something that fits

 

Gutted for you, it seemed to be going so well yesterday, all things considered anyway. I can't even volunteer to have a run over to offer some assistance as I'm in Aberdeen until Friday afternoon.

 

Can the holes not be re-drilled to suit all the studs as long as the basics can be lined up such as the air intake and centre ducting?

 

Problem is that you're breaking new ground here fitting a Mk4 CC box (if it is indeed a Mk4 box) to what is basically a Mk2 bulkhead.

[tony_ack 0]

Just got back now - I've built the car back up with the original heater box, though there's no blower motor as I've already taken out the wiring for it. I've left it garaged for now as I won't need it until at least Monday anyway, but at least it can be driven when I do need it.

 

Tony - I started to go down the route of drilling new holes. On the surface, the problem appeared to be that the top heaterbox stud was about 5cm lower on the MK4 heaterbox, so I removed the stud and tried to fit it then. Then I found that the stud near the evaporator was about 3cm out, so I drilled a new hole for that. FINALLY got it in, but then there wasn't enough clearance for the footwell ducting, so in other words it looks like all 4 studs fit differently on a MK4.

 

I think the only way to go now is to get another heaterbox that fits, as without the studs to line up, I'm pretty much guessing where it all goes. On the bright side, at least I'll have some spare duct motors.

 

I think the hole I've cut for the evaporator pipes can still be used with the correct heaterbox - I've cut a fairly big hole as the gasket around the pipes gives you plenty of room to play with... if you look at it that way, I have made a little progress today.

 

Dan (Coolrado) definitely got a Seat Leon box into his corrado without any messing about with the holes, so at least one later one will fit. I checked the Leon part number against the MK4 one on Vagcat before I started getting the parts together, and they were the same - but looking at the one I have, it's a different part number that isn't even on Vagcat. So either Vagcat is wrong, or there was a later revision (which I appear to have). Can't really see why VW would have changed all their tooling for the last couple of years of MK4 production though?

 

---------- Post added at 06:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

 

With so little info about on this, I've had to start looking at pics on e-Bay :-)

 

All the MK4 Golf ones I have seen have the studs in the same place as in my MK4 box, so it looks like the MK4 had different fixing points to the Corrado. Unfortunately it looks like one of these will go through one of the ABS pump pipes, so that well and truly rules out the MK4 box.

 

The Leon one, as far as I can see, has the top stud for the heaterbox right at the top, so it looks like it's in the same place as on the Corrado, and this surely must be the only option to go for. It also means that Vagcat was wrong as it must be a different part to the MK4 Golf

 

In case any one is wondering, the two fixing studs behind the heater matrix housing are 23cm apart on the Corrado.

 

All is not lost... my loom should still plug straight in with a bit of luck.

[fla 9]

sorry to hear that Tony. Get some pics up, I'm sure Tony (tonedef) may be able to give some more useful input.

[tony_ack 0]

I forgot to bring the MK4 heaterbox home with me, and didn't take any pics earlier either :-( I'll get some at the weekend.

 

I've found some more pics of the Leon heaterbox, and have changed my mind again now - the fixing points look like they're in the same place as in the MK4. But then Coolrado definitely fitted a box from a Leon with no problems...

 

Really don't know where to go from here until I can find a box that fits.

[Purple Tom 0]

Might be worth looking at Audi A3 heaterboxes too. Same platform as the Mk4 Golf and Leon but the Audi A3 came first so might be more compatible...just an idea?

[tony_ack 0]

Cheers Tom, I think the Octavia and TT also share a similar design too... I've looked at pictures of the A3 and it looks like the MK4 fittings unfortunately

[VRwood 0]

I'm in the middle of doing this now, although i'm not bothering with the A/C bit, at the moment i'm just driving round with the mk4 centre distribution unit fitted in place, it fitted fine all i did was trim a long bit of plastic off the base and only used the lower stud, it just fits in place and even with only one stud holding it in is rock solid!

 

Just got the bit with the fan in which reaches over to the passenger side to fit tonight then hopefully reassemble the dash (if i can remember where all the wires go)!

 

Oh I just remembered I had to trim a bit off the bottom of the footwell vent thing that fits to the bottom of the central distribution box to clear one of the actuators but other than that it fits fine!

[tony_ack 0]

I'm in the middle of doing this now, although i'm not bothering with the A/C bit, at the moment i'm just driving round with the mk4 centre distribution unit fitted in place, it fitted fine all i did was trim a long bit of plastic off the base and only used the lower stud, it just fits in place and even with only one stud holding it in is rock solid!

 

Just got the bit with the fan in which reaches over to the passenger side to fit tonight then hopefully reassemble the dash (if i can remember where all the wires go)!

 

Oh I just remembered I had to trim a bit off the bottom of the footwell vent thing that fits to the bottom of the central distribution box to clear one of the actuators but other than that it fits fine!

 

Any chance of a couple of pics, and the part numbers that are on the heaterbox and evaporator box? I tried fitting with only the lower stud, but even with the footwell vent trimmed, it still looked like it wasn't going to fit!

 

Good luck in getting the air intake bit attached - I think you'll need to do a bit more trimming!

[VRwood 0]

I'm at work at the moment so can only get the part number off the heater box - H 35 030015 A and under that 1J2 820 355 A are they the same as yours? Mines the 17 pin type climatronic so I think thats from a post 2001 car.

 

I dont really know if the pictures show much but if you want any specific angles just give me a shout.

 

With not fitting the A/C I think the fan bit will be fairly easy to fit, I've taken one of the studs out where the condenser goes through the bulkhead and I think the other lines up.

 

How are you trying to get the heater box in place, I attached mine to the lower vent first then put them both in together. They went in fairly easily, needed some manipulation but it all slotted in nicely.

 

Now I have a question, if I connect the k-line wire from the 10 pin plug to pin 7 on the OBD port do you know whether VAG-COM will be able to speak to the climatronic? I need to as I think you can only reset the flap positions using VAG-COM.