OllieVR6 0 Posted February 24, 2011 Something I have noticed a lot online (mainly at DW) is that everyone always asks about (and provides examples of) burning through paint; ie - going through to primer or even metal. I will agree it is hard, even with a rotary you would have to be really dumb to do that. But burning through clear coat is MUCH easier and the end result is just as bad. It looks dull, feels horrible and takes the protection off the paint as well as being incredibly difficult to repair. I myself once thought that only a fool would bust through the clear coat, but I managed it with a DA and I was being very careful. It only takes a thin patch you don't know about and you're through, so for anyone doing others peoples cars, perhaps just bear that in mind. :) (Especially when doing German cars as you are likely using much harsher pad/polish combo's). The main draw to a rotary for me is definitely the speed. It took me weeks to do the whole Corrado (one panel each time I washed it) but there are plenty of threads that show a whole car can be done in a day with a rotary. But until I get a PDG I'm not risking it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 24, 2011 Yeah that is a good point with clear laquer. That example I posted is a solid colour, which is far more leniant with the old polishing. I used to love polishing my Tornado Red MK2s because the pink to shiney red transformation was really satisfying. Shame it had to be done every 3 months! I've decided to borrow Rob's Silverline for a weekend and get a feel for it, before launching into a purchase of my own. I think it's the safest and cheapest option. He's done loads of cars so can give me some good pointers :) TBH, most of the defects in my paint are of my own doing. Paint, wax oyl and general chemical over sprays, accidental scratching, "Leaning things on the car" marks, previous botched polishing and I think there's even a coffee ring on the roof :lol: Is it best to clay bar first, or just launch straight in with the machine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted February 25, 2011 Clay bar first otherwise the pad will 'snag' on any embedded crap, you want the surface as smooth as possible ideally! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 25, 2011 I'd sand Kev's whole car with 1500 grit - I'm surprised there is any paint left on that thing with the amount of suspension changed etc it's had! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkFoster 0 Posted February 25, 2011 Out of interest, how hard is modern VW paint compared to the Corrado's? Like your thinking Kev - practice on the Misses' Polo first lol! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 25, 2011 :lol: Her car is in much more desperate need of it than mine! There's a patch on the bonnet which looks like an attempt to 'scour' a mark off, which appears to be in the laquer only, so hopefully a good buffing will correct that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peebee 0 Posted February 25, 2011 With original VW paint?? It would take weeks to cut the paint if you have a few heavy sctratches compared with a few hours with a machine So where can I buy one? :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A1 VR6 0 Posted February 26, 2011 So where can I buy one? :) Try here http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/machine-polishers.php Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
