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fendervg

fendervg's VR6, a.k.a "The Shark"

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Just passed our NCT (Irish version of the MoT) yesterday - it was in on Saturday and had a fail advisory on off side brake light and ABS light - typical, the brake light was fine before it went int and then I saw it through the window of the viewer's gallery - the ABS light is just pot luck - so went back with a new bulb fitted and the ABS light switching off and got my cert for another year. Not bad for a car pushing on 19 years old. Brake efficiency was at 85% as well - highest I've seen on any car I've put through.

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Now on 68,564 miles and going strong. I got both bumpers resprayed professionally and a mild polish, done by a local bodyshop - not that cheap but a professional job They do a lot of crash repairs for local VW, Audi and Merc garages. Took the bumpers off, rubbed down completely and sprayed and baked. Looks almost like a new car now.

 

---------- Post added at 10:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 AM ----------

 

Got around to doing a few jobs recently:

 

- Replaced the fubarred antenna with a new one - new base etc sourced online from the states, all with original connectors, so plug and play. A 20 minute job, just needed to be careful removing the rear trim on the roof and the headlining. Great reception now - the old amplified base was soaked and corroded to hell.

 

- Got around to fixing my headlight loom which had a bad earth. I rewired it with new cable and fitted OEM connectors and a sealed box for the relays and new fuse holders. I used Posi product no splice crimp connectors. Also fitted a OEM connector hacked out of an old headlight for where the original loom connects - now I just need to plug in the original socket to get it to work. Then re-wrapped everything in loom tape.

 

Next job is to fit my lights-on buzzer - will be using a blank on the original relay panel and fitting new blades into the central electrics and splicing into the existing loom.

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Now going on 75K miles - bad things that have happened are a knackered sunroof (usual symptoms) and a driver's side electric window that won't work. At least I have a full sunroof repair kit to hand. Not looking forward to taking the door card off thought and not even thinking about having to replace the window regulator!

 

Since the last post I've had to do the crack pipe and thermostat housings, oil cooler seal and pipes, aux belt and tensioner. The cooling system stuff was not fun parked outside on the drive with no garage, but I won out in the end. Two tries and everything was water tight.

 

The lights on buzzer worked a treat - followed the MkIII wiring and everything worked. Also fitted one of the new headlight switches from the group buy, with a slight mod to make the switch illumination all green. And a nice battery jacket to keep it all cosy in the engine bay.

 

And good news - got front and rear bumpers resprayed and some touch up done. Now it's time for a full service and another round of the NCT (Irish National Car Test).

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Cheers for the pics, am thinking of changing my suspension (again)

 

Looks a little bit higher at the front compared to the rear, is that my eyes or do you notice that in real life?

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Thought that myself when I was taking the pics - lol. The boot is half full of car parts, so that might explain it.

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Just had new OEM VAG engine and gearbox mounts fitted to replace the tired old ones - no more engine judder and the gear shift is much smoother.

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Oh no. I guess you have the proper mix of G12 in the system. It's not to hard to check over the whole system. I would suggest weak points but mine seemed to have sprung leaks from all places over the years.

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Yeah, I've always used 60/40 water to G12+ in the cooling system. It seems to be worse when pressurised. I need to get the car on jack stands tomorrow or the next day and run it for a while and see if I can spot anything.

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Radiator replaced and cooling system now functioning as expected. Not bad for a 22 year old radiator to keep running for so long.

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[ATTACH]84158[/ATTACH]

Current engine bay pics with new dizzy and Bremi red HT leads fitted.

[ATTACH]84159[/ATTACH]

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Things done recently (just a list for my own reference more than anything):

 

- fitted control box, speaker and mic from an old Nokia CK-7W car kit, very stealth and OEM and works with iPhone!

- New ISV

- replaced headlight bulbs

- New distributor, cap, rotor arm and HT leads

- fitted non-return valve on fuel feed from tank to stop leak down (works a treat)

- new crank sensor

- new VAG rear axle beam bushes fitted

- New Lemforder top mounts and strut top bearings all round

 

Now runs beautifully and handles really well - apart from the odd cut out when returning to idle - #tears

 

Things to do (on the long finger):

 

- replace sunroof motor (again!)

- fix rear wiper washer jet

- fit headlight adjustment motors

- fit cruise control

- sort out some paint and rust issues

- replace RHS door handle with repair kit and clean up membrane and door card

- same for passenger side

- clean throttle body and adjust

- change brake fluid

- fit refurbished injectors and seals

- fit refurbished ABS pump

 

etc. etc.

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Current sorry state of inside driver's door! This is after a succession of glass fitters and alarm installers have been at it over the years:

 

[ATTACH]84160[/ATTACH]

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Replacement door handle finally ready for fitting after swapping the lock barrels over...

 

[ATTACH]84193[/ATTACH]

 

Driver's door opens and closes a treat now after fitting. :)

Edited by fendervg

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After a bit of research and finding GS Bellew's write up on the Irish vagdrivers site, I decided to try it with the dash in - although in fairness it's probably only another hour's worth of labour to take the whole dash out and you would have much more access.

 

The hardest part is getting the glove box out - it's a real pain, and once out the reason is obvious (now modified with a dremel to remove that nasty ridge on the bottom) and then I ran into trouble as one of the shouldered hex studs that secure the matrix to the bulkhead had seized - I eventually just unscrewed it on the matrix side and will hopefully get it out with a second pair of hands and a socket/spanner on each side.

 

I also left the heater controls connected and took them out with the air distribution unit in one piece - this was easier with the centre console trim removed - there's a couple of fiddly screws in the air vents and by the ABS switch that practically vertical with very little access, but a small ratchet handle with a Phillips head bit worked a treat on them.

 

It looks like the old matrix had already been replaced by VW at some stage - the two screws holding it in were missing and it's not like VW to forget them in the factory.

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Congratulations on doing that one. Not an easy job and I opted for the dash out, so well done.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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Cheers - not quite done yet unfortunately. I'm waiting for some replacement studs to arrive and also drying out the heater box - a nice puddle of coolant had collected in there - but the fan housing and vent were bone dry.

 

I'd say it cracked when it overheated after my top rad hose split there recently - after that there was the tell-tale smell of coolant and a little bit of misting on the windscreen, so only a matter of time before it went completely.

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I now regret not replacing the sponge on the airbox flaps when I did mine, it contributed to me breaking the flap dial on my car a few years later due to how stiff it became

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