Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
stormseeker

VR6 rough idle (again!!!)

Recommended Posts

Had a sit in another VR6 (Storm) last week after I'd given the owner a hand changing the CPS - idle was much much smoother than mine - but noticed while my VAG-COM was plugged in the idle speed was 800rpm. Mine idles at about 680-700rpm - I'm wondering if it's the slightly lower speed that makes mine seem rougher.

 

I've cleaned & checked the ISV and that seems to have made the cold start idle a lot better, but when warm it still seems rough. I know the VR is characteristically rough anyway, but if mine was as smooth as the storm's I'd be well chuffed :-)

 

Both are within spec. but I'm wondering if there was a way to prod the Motronic to increase the idle speed with VAG-COM :? :?:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Which CPS? Crank or Cam?

 

Sorry - cam. That had been changed on the Storm with the smooth idle with which I was impressed... according to the owner it was smooth idling before the cps change too before anyone asks...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Probably the ECU wasn't in fully-adapted mode then, if it's been running without a CPS it'll probably be in "safe" mode. They'll need to reset the ECU after the replacement, I'd say.

Mine idles at 650rpm too, it does seem low, but I think that the ECU does that when it's fully adapted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
according to the owner it was smooth idling before the cps change too before anyone asks...

 

Right so it's a fluke then! ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhh - I'll check back with him then to see if it's changed...

 

There was a bit of debate between the car's owner and the CCGB technical guru and the consensus was a reset wasn't needed after the CPS change.

 

The CPS fault logged in the ECU was "intermittent" anyway, and the owner reckoned he could tell when it was working and when it wasn't as some days the car felt a lot more "livelier" than others!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The CPS fault logged in the ECU was "intermittent" anyway, and the owner reckoned he could tell when it was working and when it wasn't as some days the car felt a lot more "livelier" than others!

 

I suspect that's just a corrado trait, mine certainly does that, and it's not logged any faults (yet).

 

My feeling on the ECU reset is - if you change anything, do it. It's not gonna cost you anything, and you get to wipe the slate clean and adapt to the current condition of the engine, not how it was six months ago (the majority of the adaptation will occur pretty shortly after the reset).

 

Ask kev about his TPS change - the ECU reset was the only thing that prevented the thing from ticking over at 1200rpm!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
(the majority of the adaptation will occur pretty shortly after the reset).

 

 

That was the area of debate - certainly things like TPS vs. mass airflow & TPS values for closed & open throttle might be learned then, but mixture adaptation (the legendary "learned O2 values") & some other minor variable bits & bobs were re-learned every 24 (or was it 26?) starts of the engine....

 

Anyone know any firmware engineers in Bosch :-) ;-) we need a good contact on the inside :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Might be worth plugging your mates car into VAG-COM and checking what the TPS angle is at idle. If it's greater than 14 degrees, that could be your answer!

 

I did have cursory flick through the VAG-COM manual and it hinted on setting things like idle speeds etc if you know some kind of code, so I dismissed it as I don't have any codes to hand! But AFAIK, the only official way of doing it is setting it on the chip itself.

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did have cursory flick through the VAG-COM manual and it hinted on setting things like idle speeds etc if you know some kind of code, so I dismissed it as I don't have any codes to hand! But AFAIK, the only official way of doing it is setting it on the chip itself.

 

K

 

Yeah - I saw the "adaptation" section "for modules that support it" like you say, if you know the channel number.

 

I'll have a plough through Bentley (fnarr fnarr) when I get home to see if it's mentioned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ahhh - I'll check back with him then to see if it's changed...

 

There was a bit of debate between the car's owner and the CCGB technical guru and the consensus was a reset wasn't needed after the CPS change.

 

The CPS fault logged in the ECU was "intermittent" anyway, and the owner reckoned he could tell when it was working and when it wasn't as some days the car felt a lot more "livelier" than others!

 

 

This was the fault code I once got when plugged into the VAG super computer at my local VW garage. They didn't give a monkeys about the hall sender, but were more interested in the lambda fault, which they cleared.

Funnily enough my car behaved like that owners and eventually (actually two weeks ago), in an attempt to sort my car out once and for all, I replaced the hall (cam position) sender and the car has been superb ever since.

P.S. never had anymore problems with the lambda sensor. I reckon it was the hall sender all along.

 

Ta

 

timo

 

P.S. its a shame my valve stem seals are away and my vr os going in for engine rebuild this saturday at the cost of a small fortune/small country :shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had my discs/pads changed yesterday and my mechanic guy said that he noticed the car was idling slowly 650rpm thus making it feel abit lumpy. He said he adjusted the idle up slightly by about 40 rpm by turning a screw some where. Are you actually able to adjust the idle speed or not on a VR6? I must say I haven't noticed any major difference in the idle speed, but he did say he only adjusted the screw a quarter turn! The guy I use seems to know his stuff so if he didn't adjust the idle speed what was the screw he adjusted?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Erm, can't see how that can work, given that the idle speed is electronically controlled by the ECU. Maybe you can trick the ECU somehow?

Perhaps you can overclock the ECU...? ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Erm, can't see how that can work, given that the idle speed is electronically controlled by the ECU. Maybe you can trick the ECU somehow?

Perhaps you can overclock the ECU...? ;)

 

Ahhhh that screw - the big brass screw on the side of the ECU ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really? I'll have to try that out.

My ECU runs Linux, by the way. I got an extra 30 mpg when I switched over from windows, and now the car won't crash!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pah you're all pathetic.....my ECU is an XBOX and using the Live service, I can drive it around on the Streets of Project Gotham :-)

 

OK, on a more serious note. You *can* adjust VR idle speed by adjusting the dashpot behind the throttle body. Simply slacken it's 13mm nut and wind it up until the butterfly opens. This is a real cack way of doing it and just introduces one big air leak, and therefore not properly controlled by the ECU, but it must be the only way this mechanic of Hodgy's could have done it as there are no screws on the TB or anywhere else that could effect idle speed.

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...