Replacement OBD1 MAF

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I am thinking of getting a new 6 pin MAF in the hope of curing the poor idle/stalling problem which I thought I had cured, but haven't!!

 

There is an outfit in Lincolnshire called World Car Parts which supplies an after market equivalent to the Bosch 0280 213 021/VAG 021 906 461 MAF for about £70 delivered. Has anyone bought/used one of these? Are they any good? They offer a 1 year warranty.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[daves16v 1]

Never heard of them but I've got a 6 pin MAF you can have cheap. Only removed when converted to OBD2.

 

Dave

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Thanks; would you drop me a pm with your asking price please?

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Dave,

 

I have sent a pm in response to yours, but can't be sure if you have received it.

 

Please let me know - your offer is good, I'll arrange payment by your choice of method.

 

Best wishes

 

Roger

[fendervg 33]

I purchased a new one from VW Classic Parts in Germany about 2 months ago - I don't see them online any more, but it would be worth checking with them anyway, they speak good English. The details were 021 906 461 Luftmassenmesser 1 €227,73

[daves16v 1]

Dave,

 

I have sent a pm in response to yours, but can't be sure if you have received it.

 

Please let me know - your offer is good, I'll arrange payment by your choice of method.

 

Best wishes

 

Roger

 

PM Sent.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

There is an outfit in Lincolnshire called World Car Parts which supplies an after market equivalent to the Bosch 0280 213 021/VAG 021 906 461 MAF for about £70 delivered. Has anyone bought/used one of these? Are they any good? They offer a 1 year warranty.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

 

Don't touch them with a barge pole. I've tried a couple of their parts on mine and they were both unbranded chinese crap that lasted a couple of months. There's a reason why Bosch want £250 for one and WCP only want £70 ;)

 

---------- Post added at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ----------

 

And this another advantage to going over to OBD2. Much cheaper MAFs.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Thanks for the warning; "if it seems too good to be true............"(you know the rest).

 

I have a 2nd hand one ecoming from Dave (see above). I'll give that a go before jumping onto the OBD2 bandwagon.

 

This intermittenet stalling and surging business is ruining the whole thing for me; quite apart from the danger of arriving at a touch-and-go roundabout situation only to find that the engine has died in the meantime.

 

 

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah that and a surging at part throttle around 1500rpm when cruising used to bug the hell out of me.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Courtesy of Daves16V I have fitted another MAF which has made running generally very much smoother. But, when there is a load on the alternator there is still a tendency to engine stalling if I dip the clutch after a short period of throttle closed over-run, and it still pinks under full throttle acceleration.

 

I know that OBD2 is the way many of you will recommend, and to be honest I am sort of resigned to this (but I'm waiting for Hasan to do his first so that I can stand around with my hands in my pockets watching how it's done!!)

 

 

At this point I want to check out the MAF wiring to make sure there are no breaks or abnormal resistances. Bentley says 1.5 Ohms between pin 1 and each of 2, 3, 4, and 5 in turn. I assume that this is with the connecter to the MAF disconnected and ignition off. Also, the wiring diagram shows 4 of the 5 wires going to the ECU and one of them going somewhere else (to earth maybe??)

 

I'll also check out the wiring to the lamda probe.

 

I tried disconnecting the ISV. The engine idles rather faster than normal and doesn't stall. Does this indicate anything to anyone? The ISV has just been cleaned and lightly lubricated and responds to electrical connection so is assumed to be in working order.

 

RB

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I have now checked the resistances as my previous post (MAF cable 1 connected in turn to each of 2,3,4 and 5) and I get infinite resistance in each case with the MAF cable disconnected from the MAF and ignition off so the ECU is not energised.

 

Is this the correct procedure?

 

Cable 1 is brown/yellow so I assume is an earth.

 

Comments/suggestions gratefully received - especially from RW1 who seems to be the electronics guru.

 

Incidentally, I am getting good/very good fuel consumption (up to 35mpg on a moderate drive of 250 miles last weekend), so I am confident that the lamda is ok

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[fendervg 33]

Just to let you know that you can get these new from classic parts at the moment - I bought one for my VR about 2 months ago.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Latest news on my quest to improve the idle quality and, most importantly, stop the wretched stalling from overrun.

 

I looked at the wiring diagram 127 in the Bentley and discovered that all the engine control components and the injectors are wired through the 42 pin connector on the cylinder head, so I thoroughly cleaned that with contact cleaner and re-seated it. It made a very significant and instant difference to the smoothness of the engine and has dramatically reduced the tendency to pink under full throttle acceleration. And so far the stalling has gone away too.

 

So perhaps there was a poor connection to one or more injectors, leading to partial fuel starvation/weak mixture and therefore pinking under load, and also just not enough fuel to maintain a good idle in that part of the mapping.

 

The run in this morning in the cold damp air was a dream compared to previous rough running. I'll keep a report going on this.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Stonejag 10]

Glad you're finally getting somewhere!

 

I saw you disconnected it, but have you tried cleaning out the ISV? I had a very strange hunting problem that only surfaced after a couple of minutes at idle (it would oscillate between around 600 and 1000 rpm, changing every couple of seconds - I was asked at work if I could stop revving it!) which disappeared completely with a good clean of the ISV. Simply remove the top engine plastic, undo the electrical connection at the back and loosen its clip and it should slide towards the bulkhead until it's free of its retainer, then you can undo the hose clips connecting it to the inlet and throttle body pipework. We filled it with brake cleaner and gave it a good shake with the two apertures covered, then drained it - loads of oily black muck came out and the idle improved massively. Only a ten minute job - worth a shot?

[bristolbaron 10]

I'm after a maf housing if anyone has one.. Ideally a broken one someone's looking to bin!

Pm me if you have one sat around..

[G-Lad 0]

I gave up trying to clean the ISV on my 16v Mk2 Golf. I eventually stumped up for a new one from GSF and was amazed at how much better it idled. Actually, thinking about it, since I fitted a new Bosch MAF and ISV, my VR6 has never stalled... Just sayin'!