What parts are needed for Valve Stem Seal replacement?

[Dilated 0]

I'm going to order/buy the valve stem seals from VW tommorow, as i'm gonna have a bash at doing them myself. Can anyone give me a definative list of all the parts i'll need to buy in order to carry out this work - ie. any gaskets/seals/bolts that should be replaced at the same time? Also, any part numbers would be fantastic too!

 

Thanks all.

[chubbybrown 0]

dont you need a special tool for this ?

[Timo. 0]

you need a tool to get the valve guides out. If I'm not mistaken.

 

How many miles has you vr done chris?? Mine is currently away getting valve stems seals done and alot more. There was many hidden extra problems after the job had been started. If you vr is near or passed the 100K mark I would be very keen on getting a full head rebuild not just doing the stem seals.

 

I'm not trying to scare you, but some of the chain tensioners in mine were just short of breaking off which would have ended up in the chain jumping a tooth and boom!!!!!

 

Just a thought ma man!!

 

timo

[PhatVR6 0]

If you're not taking the head off you need a special tool to keep the valve up in the head and to take the springs off.

 

you can pull the seals off with pliers if the head is off.

[Timo. 0]

If you're not taking the head off you need a special tool to keep the valve up in the head and to take the springs off.

 

you can pull the seals off with pliers if the head is off.

 

thats a good point, forgot about that :oops:

 

timo

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If you're not taking the head off you need a special tool to keep the valve up in the head and to take the springs off.

 

you can pull the seals off with pliers if the head is off.

 

thats a good point, forgot about that :oops:

 

timo

 

You said a tool is required to get the *guides* out, and you're right, you do need one.

 

They can be hammered out with a metal drift but they must be put back in professionally. So in short, a DIY'r can fully strip a head with common or garden head tools but the guides are the only thing you can't put back in yourself, unless you have access to a computer controlled press.

 

Seals are easy to do with the air compressor method but you must use the plastic sleeve that comes with the seals otherwise they won't go over the valve guide properly, which equals instant blue fog from the exhaust!

[Dilated 0]

Okay, thanks for the help - but i'm still a little confused!

 

Which method do you guys recommend I use to replace the valve stem seals then?

Whats this compressed air method too?

 

Sorry! I'm a beginner when it comes to the VR6 engine, so have no idea YET - but more than willing to give things a go and learn!

 

I went to VW today and ordered the seals, some new spark plugs, new oil filter and some nice synta silver - so gonna give the car a little service while i'm at it too.

 

ps. sda2489 - it's only done 76k now. I checked the plugs last night and sure enough, as kev said a while ago - 1 and 6 were clogged/oiled up big time.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The compressed air method is a spark plug type tool which screws into the plug thread with an airline attached to the end. The pressure of the air keeps the valve up when you take the valve collets off, otherwise the valve will drop into the cylinder when you try and put the spring back on!

 

It's only a temporary measure as it's worn guides and valve stems that eat away at the seals in the first place. A head rebuild is the best bet. You don't have to pay £500 for one though as you can pick one up off a Golf from a scrappy and get it seen to whilst still using your existing one. Then you can flog your old one for spares/repair to get some cash back.

 

The most expensive bit will be getting the head cleaned, X ray'd for cracks, skimmed (if needed) and the guides pressing in. The rest you can do yourself, such as grinding the valves in, fitting the seals and tappets etc. Then you follow the Bentley over a weekend and replace it.

 

Sounds daunting but it's very doable.

 

K

[Dilated 0]

This compressed air method sounds like it would be the easier/quicker option. Where might I find this tool to buy, or should I make one? Also what pressure does the air need to be kept at to keep the valves up?

 

If I were to take the head off, do I need to replace the head gasket, bolts etc?

 

I have the week off work you see, so hoping to get it done before the weekend!

 

Cheers ma man

[Henny 0]

If I were to take the head off, do I need to replace the head gasket, bolts etc?

 

yup and yup...

 

Headgasket is a use once and throw away jobbie, as are the head bolts...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You need access to an airline matey, so I don't think you'll successfully manage it at home.

 

Yeah you will need to replace the head gasket and bolts if you take the head off. And the coolant and exhaust manifold gaskets. The inlet manifold gaskets and rocker cover gasket are the 're-use' type but they're cheap as chips anyway.

 

Personally, if I had a week off, I'd get one rebuilt and put it on but it depends on your budget etc.

 

It's worth getting compression and leak-down tests done too as oily plugs on 1 and 6 is ringing alarm bells in my ear.

 

K

[Dilated 0]

I have an airline at home fella, it's a good sized compressor too (use it for blowing up me tyres, air tools and the occassional paint spraying.

 

I have a compression test tool for the plugs, so i'll do that today - picking up my new plugs and other parts from VW today also, so while my plugs are out, i'll test it. What pressure should I see returned on the gauge approximately. I know that so long as they are consisitent accross all six cylinders everything will be cool.

 

Although, surely if my plugs are oily on 1 and 6, those cylinders are going to be down on pressure anyway, as oil is obviously leaking out? Might be best to do the seals, and then test the compression afterwards, with my fingers crossed...!

 

So back to this spark plug type tool - where might I pick one up? :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Ah good stuff, you're lucky then, very handy things :lol:

 

For a healthy VR engine, you're looking for 180-190 psi across all 6. I would expect a 76K unit to be well within that.

 

I think the minimum for the VR is 150, but as you say, so long as they're all the same, you're OK.

 

Regarding 1 and 6.... you will still get good pressures if the oil control rings have broken up but the compression rings are OK, which is where the leak-down test comes in handy. Somethineg else you can as you've got an airline :lol:

 

Experienced leak down testers can tell instantly if the leaking air noise is coming from the below the piston or from the guides and out of the oil filler hole. Generally speaking, a combination of leak down and compression tests is pretty conclusive. Engine needs to be on the TDC compression stroke for each cylinder though.

 

RE: the sparkplug tool for holding the valves up, you can make one by breaking the end off an old spark plug and digging the innards out to form a tube. Not easy but I've seen it done before. I don't know where you can get the specific tool from, sorry. Or perhaps you could just use the compression tester's plug end if you can seperate it from the guage?

 

Good luck! Let us know how you get on mate.

 

K

[Scott 0]

How did you get on mate>?

 

Am interested to know... as am about to have the above leakdown test done myself...

 

112k and the compression figures show 160 - 170 psi across all six... not too bad. Leakdown test next :cry:

[Robbo149 0]

Been having all these problems too - using oil, badly popping exhaust etc, never had much smoke though! checked the plugs, had a compression test done & these seemed ok (don't know what psi the comp test gave, but garage who did it said compression was ok. So started looking at the best way to get the head sorted. In the meantime, I've had a Powerflow s/s exhaust fitted & now It's smoking like a good 'un on cold starts & after a downhill run on closed throttle (classic symptoms of valve stem oil seals). Maybe the fooked standard exhaust wasn't letting enough smoke through to notice?!! Anyway, I've since found a local engine specialist who's got a VR6 head he'll fully recondition (new valve guides, seals, hydraulic tappets, valves re-seating, skimming etc, all ready to bolt on... £260 ish, which sounds reasonable to me. Just need to get a sensible quote for the labour for a head swap, timing chains, clutch etc!!! Thoughts of selling have crossed my mind, but I do love the C!

 

Cheers,

Robbo

[Dilated 0]

Scott, i'll admit - I bottled it for now.

Rang round a few places for costings on the job - just to see if it was cheap enough to get done somewhere, but prices i got for valve stem seal replacement were around £180 ish!

 

However, i was advised to try some thicker oil first to see how that does. I thought that was a good idea, considering I didn't know what oil was in there when i bought the car (only what I was told, but you never know)

It's not been using quite as much oil now, still WAY too much - so gonna do the comrpession /leak down tests this weekend and possibly have a go at the stem seals when i can afford to do without the car for a day if it takes longer than aticipated! (ie next weekend or something!)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

15/50W is a better oil for VRs that are getting on a bit.

[Scott 0]

Recommend anything Kev?

 

mine is running 10w 40 at moment and it is summer... nearly!!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I like Mobil 1 15/50W Motorsport but it's just too expensive for an engine that's starting to use a bit. You have to buy a 4 litre tub at £40 and then 2 more 1 litre top-ups at £12 a pop :x Or buy 8 litres of it and keep the other 2 spare for top ups.

 

Might be worth dropping to a mineral 15/40W? Shell Helix is a good oil for that and keenly priced.