swiftkid 1 Posted December 22, 2013 Looks like good project but still no pictures! I do believe if you are doing the mk4 shifter mount you need the TT shifter weight, thats what is on my list of things to buy. You thought about doing the A3 dash conversion again? Its something I'd like to do after seeing your first attempt, looked soo tidy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted December 22, 2013 I know, I know! I'm useless! I'll get some pics up, but there is nothing interesting going on at the moment, unless you lot fancy seeing pictures of a dirty car on a driveway? For now, I cut the weight off the top of the shift mech and it all works well. Shift feels surprisingly ok! I'll sort a TT version out in time... Love to have it roadworthy first :) As far as the A3 dash goes, I'm going to pass on it this time! Too much work involved for my liking - he says after doing all of the above! Maybe the next C will have something like that in it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Well Christmas has come and gone (phew!) and I have managed to grab a few hours on the old girl while the weather was nice for a change! Today's problem is the ABS system. I've kind of glossed over the fact that I've fitted a Teves 20 ABS system. For those who don't know about this, the standard Corrado system is a bit basic and has a 3 channel system. IE - there is a channel to control each of the front wheel speeds under braking and the rear wheels are treated as one, so if one of the rear wheels locks up, then both brakes are released to allow grip to return. The TEVES 20 system is from a MK3 GTi or similar aged VW and is 4 channel setup and the pump controls each channel pressure independently and this allows you to junk the rear bias valve near the rear axle. Bonus, seeing as they tend to seize up! Electrically, it virtually plugs straight in electrically. Just a few things to sort out with the Warning lamp. I haven't sorted out the warning light out yet, but I will in time! I plugged in VCDS to see where I stand with faults and ended up having all faults cleared apart from the 4 wheel speed sensors. All four sensors are hard latched on as a fault and won't clear, even with spinning the wheels to reset the logic. Strange thing is when I check the resistance on each of the sensors directly I end up with the following. Rear Right - 1.025 kOhms Rear Left - Open Line Front Right - 1.027 kOhms Front Left - 1.036 kOhms All within the 1 - 1.3 kOhms limits and granted the rear left one is dead but I can't figure out why all four sensors remain hard latched on in VCDS? Looking on the wiring diagram, none of them seem to share a common point in the wiring. I'll have to check the pin outs on the ECU plug to see what resistance (if any) is there. There are also 2 fuses in the system. Not sure if they are important or not but I'll look into the wiring a bit more. For those of you who are going to kill me because I don't have any pictures, here are some! I took the photos late in the day so no apologies for the quality! Generic interior shot of things as they stand. Close up of the climate control And the engine bay as it stands. Still plenty to do! Edited December 28, 2013 by Sean_Jaymo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted December 29, 2013 Had another hour on it today. Managed to find a few tired joints in the wiring loom and now all of my abs faults clear as they should! This only leaves me with needing to sort out the warning light, but not sure which direction to work on, I've got a few plans but need a new plug to actually go into the back of my mk3 warning light and then I need to buy a new nearside front and rear sensor and i'm golden! I do love progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted December 30, 2013 Think I'll be needing a chat with you at some point, I'm wanting to do a climate control conversion and the TEVES conversion as well as the corrado ABS system is absolute garbage! Although I do really fancy having a crack at the Audi A3 dash conversion. Hoping to get an R32 in the bay first though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted December 30, 2013 You're more than welcome to mate, I'll help wherever I can. The climate control conversion is fairly easy, that is if you are willing to carry out an engine conversion and it's wiring, then fitting the heater box is the hardest part! The rest is simple. It only becomes a problem when you come to fit the air con side of things. The pipework, condenser and drier along with the pipework will be interesting! The Teves conversion is fairly simple if you have everything else out whilst you are at it. You need to lift up the carpets just to get the old wiring loom out for starters. The dash conversion isn't for the faint hearted! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 3, 2014 More progress! ABS Sensors replaced. Fault codes checked. Feeling pleased! Now to sort that bloody warning light out! I have the original rado light and loom, 2 different mk3 lights and a b4 loom and none fit into each others plugs! Need to find a mk3 in my local scrappy with abs (not too easy!) and nick the loom! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 15, 2014 Another day, another post on progress, kind of! Ive needed to sort out my air intake since the start of this project but I have always been unsure on where to go with it. All I knew is that I wanted it on the stock side to avoid drawing in the warm radiator air that the 24v lumps are prone to as the intake is on the opposite side to the 12v engines. So, I sat down, had a think, looked at Kev Bacons thread for inspiration and then saw what I could come up with. I was initially sceptical that a 3 inch intake would fit well, but I looked closer, got out the measuring tape and decided to go with it! It's been mocked up but I still need a few items and I was clever enough to order the wrong size clamps, so I'm having to order them up, but I have jumped on new steering wheel group buy, so i'm feeling a bit poor! I've managed to retrain the stock airbox, but it is a VERY snug fit between airbox and tensioner and I cant remember how the stock airbox is secured to the chassis. But all that being said and done, i'm pleased with current progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted January 15, 2014 Nice one. Original box is secured using two thick rubber bands IIRC. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr lobitos 0 Posted January 15, 2014 had the same problem with my air intake,firstly did similar setup you've done there,found that after a good thrash it was starting to melt due to heat from exhaust manifold ,so fabricated one from exhaust tubing ,spot on,nice roar too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 15, 2014 I'm hoping that the heatshield will be enough! Although you are now making me nervous! The specs say that it is good for 250C (I think!) so i'm hoping that it'll be reet! I thought it was something like bands for the airbox. My memory of the original fittings is hazy, but I seem to think that tie-wraps had been used before! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 15, 2014 I lie, It's 180c. I'll look into potential protection :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted January 15, 2014 Nice one. Original box is secured using two thick rubber bands IIRC. Yes it is. When I had to take mine off to do the aux belt the rubber band pinged somewhere never to be found again :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Tie wraps it is then! I'll ask tps next time I go past their door :-) Edited January 17, 2014 by Sean_Jaymo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 17, 2014 Bit more time spent on it today, I've partially fitted the battery relocate stuff to the boot. I got up to the local scrappy a bit ago and removed the leads from a E46 BMW 3 series. Only thing I didn't pick up was the actual battery tray as I'm still deciding on what I'm going to do about that. When I broke the donor Bora, I kept a lot of bits that I thought would be useful. One of those things was the was the distribution box on top of the battery for all of the positive feeds on the car. I fabbed up a bracket and attached that and the engine bay positive terminal from the Beemer to it and mounted that in the bay near where the battery used to be. From there I ran the HUGE feed to the boot only to find it about 2 or 3 feet too short! I do need to rig up a fuse though so, getting a few more feet of the stuff and extending the lead, adding a fuse and then fitting the battery should finish it all off! I've got a photo, but it's not very clear and the flash makes it look terrible and shows up how "original" my engine bay paintwork is! I temporarily hooked up the battery to check everything and it all works perfectly well but it does take a few cranks to fire up, but then my battery is past it's best so I'm not hugely concerned for now. If it still like this with a new battery, then I'll look into it again. But for those who like this kind of thing, Photos! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted January 17, 2014 I take it you have transplanted everything from the donor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 17, 2014 I assume you mean wiring et all Clumpy? No, just the stuff required to get the engine up and running. I just run my vehicle lives from here instead of directly from the battery terminal block. The junction box from the Bora has 5 different fused outputs which are simple threaded terminal points which you just screw down. There is a 40A, 2 x 50A, 110A and a 150A fused connection point. Every circuit is obviously fused on the car but a second fused safety point is never bad! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted January 17, 2014 No mate it was when you said it was taking a few crank's to start. The R32's have a "quickfire" system which enable's them to start but when running aftermarket like "DTA" as mine is the DTA has to make it's calculation's as you are turning the key once it is happy it will tell the engine "OK START" is your's like this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 17, 2014 I get you! Everything to run the engine on the standard ECU has been transferred into the Corrado. The few cranks is battery power related, or at least i'm sure of it! It's a sluggish crank before it does fire, but when it does fire, it runs pretty happily considering there is no exhaust or lambda sensors plugged in! Normally if the battery is in good nick, it cranks once then fires into life. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted January 17, 2014 You will see next year when mine is back out as I will be doing a proper tour of the show's and I'm sure we will bump into each other then ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 17, 2014 I hope so mate! There are a few names from on here that I would like to put faces to and to have a look over cars properly! Firstly, I do need to get this back on the road before I get to any shows! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted January 17, 2014 Judging from your skill's mate that's a mere formality I can turn round a car regarding look's/interior you have true skill's :salute: Some of the stuff you say "yeah get the 1 and attach it to 4 7 and 65" Respect! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 17, 2014 Cheers mate! That's kind of you! Messing around with stuff like this keeps me happy and I enjoy a project. The main thing holding me back is funds, we've found ourselves in the potential need to buy a house this year instead of next year or two. That means that splashing cash on things like the exhaust becomes difficult to justify. If I could weld then I could sort something out, but I can't, so I won't! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted January 17, 2014 Pity you aren't closer as I am a bit of a dab hand with a Mig. (I weld pressure vessel's) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted January 17, 2014 Bring the gear to a show and you can try and teach me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
