Corrado Part Duex - 24V Aqua Blue - She's gone.

[clumpy1 11]

Good luck Sean.

[coullstar 0]

Was it the wheels rubbing?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Sounds very much like splitter to me, but I wouldn't be surprised if it were the wheels.

[coullstar 0]

You had to be damn low or cambered road for splitter to be scuffing on a level road. Probably front wheels on liners.

[perksy 11]

a up sean loving your car the chs suit it down to the ground great choice of wheel

 

 

makes me wanna pull my finger out and get mine done

 

how do you find the 24v engine over the vr6?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Well, she is back!

 

MOT Passed satis, only the usual play in rear bearings that normally comes up as advisories!

 

BUT, It was fine all day apart from when the car got warm when the garage were doing the tracking and and it cut out. Thought it had run out of fuel (only had a jerry cans worth at the start of the day) and it was pushed outside. More fuel put in, started, ran for a minute then died. Wierd. Wouldn't crank over anymore and I thought the battery had died. Booster pack didn't help. Left it to cool and it started right up. Left it a bit to make sure all was good and it died again!

 

Left it to cool, started it up, drove it the mile or so home where it promptly died on my driveway. Cleared all the codes and it came back with a 16705 code for an implausible signal for the engine speed sensor. Rev counter works fine but it will sometime stall when idling warm or will cut out entirely and refuse to restart!

 

Bloody cars!

 

Oh and the rubbing is on the drivers wheel as suggested. It's definitely time to sort that out, I'm a bit too old to be rubbing the hell out of my tyres! I'll look into it a bit more tomorrow if I get a chance!

[clumpy1 11]

Good news on the mot Sean. As for the rest welcome to the transplant world I get some funny look's when starting mine as you have to have a couple of tries before it will start mainly because with running aftermarket management (DTA) it takes the ecu a little longer to gat all the signal's before it will allow it to start. Whereas if it was running factory it would start straight away as it has a system called "quickstart" It is alot more mappable on DTA plus other option's like launch control etc

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

The completely random thing is that this has never happened before and I've had the car running for 45 mins or so a few times so that I can check things like the operation of the cooling system and any warm running or starting problems. Nothing ever came back as a fault.

[clumpy1 11]

These test you mate on the way to national day last year lovely day and rather hot usual M6 issues ie incident's and slow traffic first one was no problem then as it looked like it was clearing another had happened not too far on so traffic ground to a halt with me in the outside lane and it was stewing. Car actually felt like it was trying to cut out as if it was trying to tell me it was too hot as traffic very very slowly moved I managed to get to the inside lane and off into one of the services to let it cool down. It will take you time to iron everything out mate but you seem more than capable to do it :thumbleft:

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Here's to hoping so!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Further to add to this. Let the car cool right down, went back out and it started perfectly well. Got it up to temperature and everything seemed good. Switched it of and restarted it a few times and all was well so I thought I would take it for a quick jaunt to the end of the road and back. Backed out of the drive, all good. Turned it around and turned on the lights. Moved about 50 feet and there is goes again. Dies and won't restart! Now it's parked up 50 yards down the road waiting for it to go cold so I can rescue it home!

 

Doesn't like load when warm!

[clumpy1 11]

And so it begin's

[perksy 11]

not good sean hope you get it sorted quickly

 

well guess this answers my ? of how you find the 24v over the vr6 for day to day driving, there the same temperamental haha

 

i guess if we didnt wanna tinker with our cars we would of just bought something modern and leave it standard

[robrado974 1]

Hi Sean , maybe the temp sender has gone , so as the car warms up it's sending the wrong signal to the ECU ?

Rob

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I don't think it's the temp sensor as vcds shows a very similar temp to the guage. If it failed, it would overfuel.

 

Found a bodged crank sensor so repaired that. But it still fails but without a fault code. Seeing as the fuel system is mechanical, ill look there.

 

I'll bung a new filter on incase it's picked up crap from the bottom of the tank and I've found a small leak so will follow that for now.

[robrado974 1]

Hope you get it sorted , the intermittent fault on mine was a right pain .

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Haha! Cheers Rob!

 

Well I grabbed a hour this evening and replaced the fuel filter and fixed my leak. No Joy. Engine will cut out completely randomly and the worst of it all, there are no fault codes showing at all! Seeing as there are no sensors that VCDS reads on the fuel system, I'm inclined to believe that the fault must lie here somehow? When it runs, it runs perfectly well and then all of a sudden it will just die. It won't cough/splutter/hunt etc. It just plain old dies! I can't see why I'm now having these faults when it ran perfectly for the 6 weeks or so I was running tests on the driveway and up and down the street.

 

Bloody cars!

[clumpy1 11]

DTA management.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Thanks James

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I spent another couple of hours on it today and still no real luck!

 

What I do know is;

 

When cold, it will start up perfectly well with a rock solid idle and responds perfectly. If left to its own devices it will idle until the water temp reaches approx 41/42 degrees and then it will just clonk out with any warning. It will then refuse to restart until it's returned to ambient temperature at which point it will repeat the process. No fault codes ever show.

 

Both ECU and Fuel pump relays operate as described

No faults from the crank shaft sensor. Rev counter works perfectly, no codes relating to it.

Fuel pump removed and found clean and operating well

New filter

Cleaned up all earths and no real problems found apart from 1 slightly loose earth

Battery reading 12.5v with the engine off and 14.1v with the engine running

MAF readings seem within spec

Water temp switch shows within 10% of gauge which gets its feed from the yellow sender.

Plugs look ok, only a bit wet from where it's getting fuel.

 

I've not physically seen a spark from the plugs but seeing as it runs beautifully until it conks out gives me a warm fuzzy feeling that they are ok.

 

No mayo in the cap, no smell of fuel in the coolant and no other strange things.

 

Any suggestions?

Edited May 18, 2014 by Sean_Jaymo

[borachris 0]

Sounds a strange one, have you got a spare coolant temp sensor to try, sounds a little complicated for it to be that but you never know!

 

I'm a member on ukmkivs if you want I'll put a post up on there and ask if anyone has any ideas?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

If you could Chris that could be helpful! I used to be an active member on there but I haven't logged on for ages! I should really, some really good guys on there, infact Tabs, CkB and co were at my wedding!

[borachris 0]

Really, cool!

 

I still browse now and again lol

 

Link to thread

 

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/238696-v6-4-motion-cutting-out-when-warmed-up-and-wont-restart-until-its-cooled-down-help/

 

Let's hope someone can come up with a cause/solution!

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Most appreciated Chris! Let's hope something comes up!

[mattkh 0]

Hi

My money is on CPS (crankshaft position sensor) if your engine DTA is usimg one.