going to give painting a go

[ger040 2]

Hello i am considering giving painting my corrado ago after getting several quotes and others not interested (only seem to be interested in insurance jobs)

 

i dont want to be a complete prat when entering my local car paint suppliers and need a few basic details of car paint

 

my corrado is flash red which i can order no problem but does this require clearcoat or is it some other kind of finish

 

the bumpers are showing there age with general flaking of the top coat not the paint although one has a minor crease how is this repaired?

 

i can get hold of a compressor and need to purchase spray guns

 

Any advice will be appreciated

[aide 0]

if you're not precious about a show car finish, are feeling brave and have the time to commit to it, then consider the '50 dollar paint job' :)

 

good results can be achieved... http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?40341-My-quot-rustoleum-50-roll-on-paint-job-quot

[ger040 2]

if you're not precious about a show car finish, are feeling brave and have the time to commit to it, then consider the '50 dollar paint job' :)

 

good results can be achieved... http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?40341-My-quot-rustoleum-50-roll-on-paint-job-quot

 

thanks but i might like to try to keep it original if i can, i just might like to give it a go after all how are you meant to learn if you dont give it a go

 

and by the way just noticed your from belfast as myself!!!

[aide 0]

True, you have to get stuck in, check out vrowner85 thread to see someone whose home sprayed to a decent standard.

 

Yeh live in Belfast, I'm a blow in, moved over in 2005 :)

[ger040 2]

True, you have to get stuck in, check out vrowner85 thread to see someone whose home sprayed to a decent standard.

 

Yeh live in Belfast, I'm a blow in, moved over in 2005 :)

 

i have just seen the work you have done to your own car very nice and all to an excellent standard !!

[davidwort 0]

I'd advise you read up a lot before investing in any kit, painting to a good finish requires a very clean environment and preparation takes a huge amount of time. You need a basecoat (your red) and then a clearcoat (lacquer) to finish. I'd recommend a 2 pack (chemical hardening) clearcoat as these are harder and more resistant to chemicals/pollution when finished. You'll also need a primer and possibly acid etching primer for any bare metal repairs.

Ideally you need a high CFM (cubic ft/minute) compressor, especially if you are going to use high volume/low pressure (HVLP) guns to spray (these waste less paint and cause less overspray) and no 240V compressor will run an air fed mask and HVLP gun (you need an air-fed mask if you are going to spray any 2 pack paint - and it's far better for painting any paint anyway).

You can get a reasonable finish if you can screen off a spray booth area, e.g. make a poly tent inside a garage, and spray a solid colour like your red, as both basecoat and clearcoat can be flatted back where any dust/hairs/flies manage to get into the curing paint, not so easy with a metallic finish.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

yea what david said, read up alot! materials and sundries are expensive so you dont want to be doing it twice!, dont waste your time with rustoleum stuff, ebay = how to paint car dvd, youtube = how to spray car, how to blend car paint, how to block sand filler/primer,

 

it isnt the colour which determines if it needs a clearcoat, its the type of paint you are useing,

if its a "single stage" paint then it doesnt require a clearcoat for its gloss and u.v protection, however single stage paints only come in solid colours not metalics so your limited with colours if useing this type of piant,

 

{ Also the word 2k/ 2pack means two componant or two part , it means the paint needs two parts for it to work , 1st part is the paint 2nd part is the hardner, you have 2k clearcoats,primers,and topcoats,fillers, glue etc etc, the single stage paint will be 2k}

 

if your useing the modern "two stage" basecoat/clearcoat then you need to have a clearcoat on top of the basecoat {basecoat = the colour coat} for its gloss,UV protection and durability/hardness, basecoat can be made up in what ever colours you want! solid colours metalic pearls etc etc , if your car has been in for body repair they more then likely would of used this type of system to repair it, your clearcoat on this could be 1k {doesnt require a hardner} or 2k but i highly recomend you use a

2k clearcoat as its more durable and your get better gloss,

Edited May 17, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[ger040 2]

Thanks for the reply davidwort have got a store to use and can screen a section of it off

 

interesting that you need a air fed mask for 2 pack clearcoat - dont think i will have access to this

 

just bought some dvd's of ebay so weekend will be spent in front of the telly

[davidwort 0]

it's up to you, 2K paint/clearcoat tends to have some nasty chemicals in it that cause lung damage from prolonged exposure, you could use a filter mask for smaller jobs (I have!) but an air fed is much safer and prevents misting as fresh air is constantly blowing out of the mask. For doing a whole car or large sections an air fed would be much safer and more comfortable, but you'd need 2 compressors doing it on single phase 240V power, one for the mask, one for the gun.

It's quite rewarding to do yourself though, I've done several wings and some wheels and when you get a good result it's really pleasing :)

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

from what i gather you can safely use a filter mask with 2kpaints and alot of the yanks which have been in the trade 15+ years still do, the problem is isocyanates are odourless and cartridge filters dont last forever so theres no way in knowing when the filter is fully saturated with the chemicals, so manufacturers protect you and themselfs by saying air fed is the only way wiht 2k paints, which is true becuase it will protect you! if the filters fully saturated you will never know you could be breathing it in, its not like breathing smoke where you will have an automatic reaction to it, and from what iv read the damage is irreversable to your lungs! , if your going to use a cartridge mask use nothing less then 3m's full face! the amount of overspray that i get on my mask lense which would of otherwise gone into my eyes is quite alot! and isocyanates can be absorbed through the skin and eyes!!, do your home work on this! and make your own judgement,

[GlosterOx 0]

All sound advice, also wear a Tyvek or similar suit to protect all parts of your body from possible absorption of isocyanates from the 2K paint and invest in a good spray gun.

 

Ian.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

also painting isnt as easy as it might sound, fact is unless you give it ago you will never truley understand it, people just think oh yea quick car wash a quick sand down and spray some paint job done! , so so wrong! every imperfection has to be removed before paint with sand papers,fillers and primers, this itself is time consumeing you also need to use the right grit sand papers with a nice hard straight sanding block, look down the side of your car , you might see slight waves or slight dents, these would be straightend out dureing the filler/primer stage useing guidecoat with a sanding block if you just keyed the paint and sprayed your colour ontop then them waves or stonechips/imperfections would still be there probably look even worse, even after paint you still have work to do, not so much for the body shop guys as the spray booths do more then just keep the area clean, they remove overspray {also paint vapours} with large extraction fans so there exposure to the chemicals would be less then the diy'er, this overspray in a diy enviroment might settle on top of your newly laid down clear, also dust nibs are a nightmare but they all can be fixed by wetsanding and buffing,you just need to apply enough material to allow for wetsanding afterwards, just means the diy guy has to work harder,

[frankjetta 0]

from what i gather you can safely use a filter mask with 2kpaints and alot of the yanks which have been in the trade 15+ years still do, the problem is isocyanates are odourless and cartridge filters dont last forever so theres no way in knowing when the filter is fully saturated with the chemicals, so manufacturers protect you and themselfs by saying air fed is the only way wiht 2k paints, which is true becuase it will protect you! if the filters fully saturated you will never know you could be breathing it in, its not like breathing smoke where you will have an automatic reaction to it, and from what iv read the damage is irreversable to your lungs! , if your going to use a cartridge mask use nothing less then 3m's full face! the amount of overspray that i get on my mask lense which would of otherwise gone into my eyes is quite alot! and isocyanates can be absorbed through the skin and eyes!!, do your home work on this! and make your own judgement,

Have to agree with all the above, there is a standing joke in our paintshop about painters not reaching retirement and it's always the old car sprayers that have the problems. Wear an airfed with 2k materials, it may save your life, not today because you wont notice it, but when you get older you may suffer. For a cheap fix, cellulose is still available which at least is natural product (although still dangerous to breathe in) but the colourfastness and hardness will not be the same.

[seanl82 23]

So would a single car respray be considered "prolonged use" then?

 

I'll very much be considering whether to do mine myself over winter, or saving for a bit longer to get it done professionally in a year or so.....

 

Very useful thread and lots of good info here, thanks all!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

So would a single car respray be considered "prolonged use" then?

 

I'll very much be considering whether to do mine myself over winter, or saving for a bit longer to get it done professionally in a year or so...

 

na that wouldnt be considered prolonged use, but deosnt mean your safe for that one time deal ! theres so many variables for example "extraction and ventilation" without them you "probably" would be over exposed on the first spray job useing cartridge filters depending on how much your spraying, for example a full size van in a small room with little ventilation is no good!! a small bumper in that same room wont be anywhere near as bad.

 

the better the ventilation the better air flow means your mask filters dont have to work as hard, the vapours and overspray would get pulled straight out introduceing clean fresh air into your area , is your mask tight fitting around face? might want to consider haveing your beard chopped for a better seal, if you treat this stuff like its actualy going to kill you then your be fine for that one paint job ,

 

for diy if you want to do it, tackle it in stages, dont bite it all off at once, do the wings one day then the bonnet seperate, do the bumpers on another day , do the doors on another , and do the shell in one go on another , this way your keeping chemical exposure down, and any problems that may occur will be easier to fix on the go..

[ger040 2]

Thanks for the replies some honest and excellent advice there especially health and safety items and after reading some iam in two minds

to give it a go will wait until july and make my mind up then

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

what colour is your car?, is it metalic?

[ger040 2]

what colour is your car?, is it metalic?

 

its pink - sorry flash red

[Rorgasm 10]

in a same situation as you GER040, after digging around found this article that might be of some use to you in regards to Non-Iso paint.

 

http://www.hmgpaint.com/press-releases/versatile-non-isocyanate-topcoat-is-a-paint-for-the-professional-finish

 

Find the nearest Auto paint shop to you & go have a chat with the guys in there. it's in there interest to help you out as you'll probably buy your paint & preping items from them plus they will the best way to do a DIY job.

 

Consider the general public as well, 2kpaint is nasty stuff from what i have read.

 

I'm getting a free Dvd on how to spay cars with my compressor (which turns up tomorrow:smug: can't wait). i'll give it a watch & see if it's any use. if it is i'll send you a copy:cool:

[ger040 2]

in a same situation as you GER040, after digging around found this article that might be of some use to you in regards to Non-Iso paint.

 

http://www.hmgpaint.com/press-releases/versatile-non-isocyanate-topcoat-is-a-paint-for-the-professional-finish

 

Find the nearest Auto paint shop to you & go have a chat with the guys in there. it's in there interest to help you out as you'll probably buy your paint & preping items from them plus they will the best way to do a DIY job.

 

Consider the general public as well, 2kpaint is nasty stuff from what i have read.

 

I'm getting a free Dvd on how to spay cars with my compressor (which turns up tomorrow:smug: can't wait). i'll give it a watch & see if it's any use. if it is i'll send you a copy:cool:

 

Hello rorgasm i think i have the dvd you may be talking about (how to paint your car - an american dude with hair from the 80's ) its a 2 dvd set? any way with mine only one dvd played the other stopped after approx 20 mins !!!.

 

This seems to be a bit of a minefield - painting cars - on one hand i want to try it but dont want to spend silly amounts of money only to find i cant do it.

 

Then as you say your own H&S is paramount as with the general public.

 

iam lucky i have access to a store/workshop within a small industrial estate.

 

out of curiousity what size of compressor did you buy (litres & cfm output)?

 

---------- Post added at 5:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:37 PM ----------

 

that paint looks interesting ? have you or know of any one who has had experience with it!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

its pink - sorry flash red

 

ok bud , if you want to scratch your itch to piant something,then consider this , flash red is a solid colour so you dont have to do it with basecoat paint {basecoat requires a clearcoat} , if you have an old panel or an old wing or bonnet just to test this out i recomend you watch paint videos on youtube on "colour sanding"} then wash down your wing/bonnet with warm soapy water , dry it then panel wipe, then sand the wing /bonnet down with 600 wet or green scotch pad just to get a good key , and then use this stuff , mix it up to what it says 2:1? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-2K-ACRYLIC-CAR-PAINT-COLOUR-FLASH-RED-CODE-G3E-1-LITRE-/390385641138?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5ae4cc26b2#ht_2164wt_801 and roll it on, let it dry for about 2hours then roll another coat on, then same again , then wait 24hrs or more and flat the whole lot back with 1500 wet with a nice block then buff back to gloss , if you do it right it should come out prety damn good!! its worth trying , especialy on a bonnet , you wont be spraying it into the air so health wise you can use a cheap spray mask , and you wouldnt need to splash out on spray guns or air supply , you just have to work alot harder with sanding, when i did my first spray job it had so much orange peel that i might aswell of used a roller but i wetsanded it all back and it looked prety damn sweet!! it wouldnt cost you to much to test it out, ill post up some pics in a min of my first spray job

 

this is metalic black basecoat with a 2k clearcoat, look on the left side , see how blury it is, thats orange peel , prety much the same texture you would get from a roller, and it still flatted out good,

 

buffed with g3 compound

 

 

ps i have since learnt not to use diy power tools when finishing clear coats also mask the car up when doing buffing like that , its much easier to keep clean :)

Edited May 23, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[Rorgasm 10]

Morning,

 

Yeh, that sounds like the DVD.

 

The compressor is a 90L Burisch.

 

http://www.burisch.co.uk/prestashop/product.php?id_product=2

 

It’s nothing amazing but for the amount I’m going to use it it’ll be fine. It cost around £240, I know you get what you pay for but I contacted around 20 people on eBay & I got at least 12 replies back all saying how impressed they were with it & how well it worked. Lara the sales rep was extremely helpful & friendly (as a sales rep should be).

 

The FAD (Free Air Delivery) figures are as follows:

 

3bar : 257 L/min // 9.07CFM

4bar: 240 L/min // 8.47CFM

5bar: 228 L/min // 8.05CFM

6bar: 219 L/min // 7.73CFM

7bar: 209 L/min // 7.38CFM

8bar: 198 L/min // 6.99CFM

 

I bought quite a good book on DIY Prepping & Spraying, i'll find a link for you at some point.

 

Rory

[davidwort 0]

...

...ps i have since learnt not to use diy power tools when finishing clear coats...

:lol:

 

...

The compressor is a 90L Burisch.

http://www.burisch.co.uk/prestashop/product.php?id_product=2

Very similar to the second hand sealey I have, looks good, belt drive, so relatively quiet.

Edited May 24, 2013 by davidwort

[ger040 2]

:lol:

 

 

Very similar to the second hand sealey I have, looks good, belt drive, so relatively quiet.

 

 

 

Thanks for the replies some good honest advice there

 

With regards to the paint that advert says that if applied correctly there is no need for a clear coat but looking at my corrado bumpers areas

have began to flake (age related) and to me it is a clearcoat as the paint below is still intact!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

 

With regards to the paint that advert says that if applied correctly there is no need for a clear coat but looking at my corrado bumpers areas

have began to flake (age related) and to me it is a clearcoat as the paint below is still intact!

 

it doesnt matter what paint you have on your car , you have a solid colour not metalic so you have the choice of useing either a 2stage system a.k.a basecoat/clearcoat or a single stage 2k topcoat, the single stage is easier for the diy'er {the one i linked you}. Maybe someone in the paint industry can confirm this but all the older vw's iv seen {pre 1995 } with a solid colour have a single stage paint from the factory, it would make sense that your car has had paint work done by a bodyshop useing basecoat clearcoat , useing this is fine so is useing single stage the choice is yours ;)

 

if you want to try useing basecoat/clearcoat then heres the stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2L-Solvent-Basecoat-Paint-VW-AUDI-LP3G-FLASH-RED-/300550664735?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item45fa37321f#ht_1307wt_1038 this needs to be mixed 1:1 with basecoat thinners, you have slow ,medium or fast thinners {the rate it evaporates} depending on what your doing,

 

you will need to apply the clearcoat with in a certain time frame, the tech data sheets for that product will tell you exaclty how long you have , if you leave it longer then the set time then the basecoat cures hard and there will be no adhesion for the clearcaot to stick and it will peel in no time ;)

 

this clearcoat kit is very good value , http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-Pol-2k-S-2080-Clearcoat-lacquer-kit-/280728466394?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item415cb873da#ht_1411wt_801

Edited May 30, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85