Mrs Badcrumble 2.0 16v....

[blue95 0]

Big ball of wires = Scary :shock:

[mrbeige 0]

Big ball of wires = Scary :shock:

 

Yeah it is a little daunting, but how hard can it be....lol

 

I showed my mate, who's giving me a hand sorting it out, these pictures and he said it shouldn't be too difficult to do, as long as I have the wiring diagrams. Hopefully going to have a look at the looms this week to see what we need to do. the only dificult bit is making sure all the wires are the correct length. The only loom I'm modifying is the engine loom, the others are just being replicated, but with different lengths and a different position for the battery as its going in the boot.

 

Fingers crossed :lol:

[blue95 0]

Hats off to you.....don't think I 've seen anyone make a whole loom before. :D

[Dec 1]

Its one way to make 100% sure the loom you are using is in top condition though! Fair play! :notworthy:

[dirtytorque 0]

How are you incorporating your clocks into this.

What I mean is what features of your clocks are dependent on your current ECU ?

 

Actually,i'd be interested to hear what anyone who has gone down a similar route had to say on this matter;not just the beige one.

 

Sorry Mr beige for hijacked post.You can have it back after . :)

[mrbeige 0]

Cheers guys. Not sure if I've done the right thing, but sod it, its out now...

 

Just been checking that all the plugs are available, so just phoned up VW and the plugs are available for very little, but the pins aren't. they did say that they have a big box of pins there, so might have to havea mosy-on-down there to see if the big box of pins contains the type of pins I need...

[mrbeige 0]

How are you incorporating your clocks into this.

What I mean is what features of your clocks are dependent on your current ECU ?

 

Actually,i'd be interested to hear what anyone who has gone down a similar route had to say on this matter;not just the beige one.

 

Sorry Mr beige for hijacked post.You can have it back after . :)

 

No probs.

 

The idea is to try and do a seemless install of the Squirt, by making a loom that plugs directly into the back of the fuseboard, therefore retaining all functionality of the clocks/gauges and using fuel pump relay as well. It should work, as long as I get the pins right in the plugs that go into the fuseboard. This will also allow me to add/remove functionality from the squirt if required, by just making another plug and play loom....

 

Well, that's the plan anyway....

[dirtytorque 0]

So the old ecu stays in?

[mrbeige 0]

So the old ecu stays in?

 

Nope, I'll be replacing the ECU and loom with the squirt ECU and a new loom, but he loom will plug directly into the fuse board with the same connectors as the old one.....hopefully :robot:

[junkie 0]

Big respect and goooooooood luck

[mrbeige 0]

Big respect and goooooooood luck

 

Cheers dude and I think I'll need it :LOL: I do have me mate Dave to help me with building the loom, its just up to me to work out how to build it :doc:

 

Just found this picture, whilst talking to saysomestuff, one of my favourites....it looks like its about to eat something....mmmmmm16v turbo mmmmmm :lol:

[junkie 0]

I can see this passing the "winter months" project, but who cares when its all rosey at the other end.

 

You going for a stealth/sleeper approach at that ride height :lol:

[mrbeige 0]

I can see this passing the "winter months" project, but who cares when its all rosey at the other end.

 

You going for a stealth/sleeper approach at that ride height :lol:

 

Winter, summer, winter, summer at the rate I'm going :lol:

 

I did think about the stealth approach, but I think i'd be struggling to breath at that height! :lol:

[mrbeige 0]

Well, trying to get these bl00dy terminal pins is a nightmare, but one of the guys on Dubforce pointed me at this site: vehicle wiring products, and its looking quite hopeful. Will measure the pins tonight and see if they are the same. The only other option is to buy pins with flying leads off them from VW, but that isn't ideal as I'll have to splice into the flying leads and what is the point of that, I might as well just cut the plugs off my existing loom; NOT what I want to do.

[roo 0]

Hey Stu,

Just a thought, but maybe you're creating unnecessary work for yourself here mate.

 

From my experience of doing my own MS install, there's actually very little overlap between the MS ECU loom and the Corrado's general wiring loom. IIRC all you need to splice into in the standard wiring loom is the fuel pump, the tachometer and a switched 12V source. It's up to you if you want to use the existing fuelpump relay, I chose to add a little fusebox and separate relays in the driver side foot well as it's a convenient way of doing it.

 

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdffusebox.jpg[/attachment:c52d1]

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfECUloom.jpg[/attachment:c52d1]

 

I also rerouted all of the engine bay wiring across the bulkhead into the cabin, it was a bit of a pain as it meant chopping the loom in half and splicing it together but it does look much neater. Similar to what you're proposing, I initially I tried to integrate as much of the MS loom as possible into the general wiring loom of the car, but to be honest I found it quite difficult as the two essentially run in different places. In the end I decided to get the cars general wiring loom sorted, test it, repair it, make sure it was working properly and then worry about the MS loom, which was a challenge in itself :lol:

On my valver it was also possible to ditch the entire engine loom from the ECU backwards and also cut out shed loads of wiring to the fusebox that was simply not required, like the ISV wiring and ignition coil wiring...just make sure you don't get over zealous :oops: If you look at the picture you can see where I've capped off the wires I've cut.

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcutwires.jpg[/attachment:c52d1]

enginebay.jpg[/attachment:c52d1]

 

Anyhoow, if you need any help just give us a shout 8)

[mrbeige 0]

Hi Andy,

 

I probably am creating a bit more work for myself yeah :oops: but I want to replace the wiring looms that go into the bay as they are mostly fooked. I've got some wires that have burnt out at somepoint and have had a shoddy repairs done to them, so thought that it was best to replace the lot. It's all good fun :lol:

 

From my experience of doing my own MS install, there's actually very little overlap between the MS ECU loom and the Corrado's general wiring loom. IIRC all you need to splice into in the standard wiring loom is the fuel pump, the tachometer and a switched 12V source. It's up to you if you want to use the existing fuelpump relay, I chose to add a little fusebox and separate relays in the driver side foot well as it's a convenient way of doing it.

 

The plan is to use the existing fuel pump relay, the tachometer and a switched 12V source, which was also part ofthe reason for my wiring loom madness. Not sure on where to put the fusebox for the squirt though. I like where you put yours, but quite like the idea of having any extra wiring over by the original wiring fusebox

 

Anyhoow, if you need any help just give us a shout 8)

 

I may well do that dude. I'm still interested in the dizzy blanking plate :wink:

 

Oh, and how well does yours run??

[junkie 0]

Is there any space left in the original place?

 

I have my Haltech ECU, wiring, relays and some fuses all screwed under the passenger side tray, unless you get on your knees you cant see it. Makes it easily accessible and its tidy.

[mrbeige 0]

There's loads of space at the mo, as the dash is out :lol:

 

Seriously though, not sure on where I'm going to mount the ECU, might have it in the glovebox, but might put it under the steering column. Not really sure. I haven't got that far thinking about it yet....

[saysomestuff 0]

I like where you put yours, but quite like the idea of having any extra wiring over by the original wiring fusebox

 

IIRC the casing for the main fusebox has little mitres on the side of it so you can just attach additional fuseholders and relays - my passat had about four extras which literally slide into place on the side worth a go if you haven't got much extra to fit?

[roo 0]

Fair enough dood, if your wiring is fooked then it's probably worthwhile replacing it and also satisfying the masochist within!

 

I think the glovebox is pretty convenient for placing the ECU, as it's easily accessible. I did consider mounting it in the centre console somewhere though, but couldn't find anywhere convenient. In addition to the wiring, theres also the vacuum line for the MAF to consider too.

 

Mine runs really well now, it's amazing how smooth the engine runs. The difficult thing is tuning it (still ongoing!) and getting over all the teething troubles and obscure Megasquirt settings.

I took it down to Stealth for a tune-up but unfortunately a core plug in the cylinder head started leaking, combined with some other problems, like I'd paired up the injectors wrongly and one of the EDIS settings was wrong, so it was a bit of a disappointing day and we never really finished the tuning. That said, we got it to a reasonable state of tune up to about 5000rpm and got the all important ignition map looking something like. I can't afford to get it re-tuned at the mo, but Vince reckons it should easily make 180bhp. Incidentally, Vince was less than impressed with Megatune, it's all a bit clunky when compared to DTA's interface.

 

Give us a shout when you're ready and I'll gladly knock up a dizzy blanking plate for you, you'll need to use the newer stylee ford coil pack with it though, which also conveniently fits the VW ignition leads.

If your interested I've also just made an ISV plate that bolts onto the end of the inlet manifold. I found that the VDO ISV's are really rubbish to control with MS and also draw too much current, thus frying the TIP121 power transistor. A Ford ISV is much better, draws less current and has more resolution to boot. Have you got yourself an inlet manifold sorted yet?

[mrbeige 0]

IIRC the casing for the main fusebox has little mitres on the side of it so you can just attach additional fuseholders and relays - my passat had about four extras which literally slide into place on the side worth a go if you haven't got much extra to fit?

Hmmm, I know what you mean, that could be a good plan, Cole.

Mine runs really well now, it's amazing how smooth the engine runs. ....*edit*....

Vince reckons it should easily make 180bhp. Incidentally, Vince was less than impressed with Megatune, it's all a bit clunky when compared to DTA's interface.

180bhp is really good, and its nice to here that the engine is real smooth. 8)

Give us a shout when you're ready and I'll gladly knock up a dizzy blanking plate for you, you'll need to use the newer stylee ford coil pack with it though, which also conveniently fits the VW ignition leads.

That'd be cool and the gang. I already have an early style coilpack, but can easily move that on and get a newer style one. much better to use the HT leads I already have as well as they are pretty good ones.

If your interested I've also just made an ISV plate that bolts onto the end of the inlet manifold. I found that the VDO ISV's are really rubbish to control with MS and also draw too much current, thus frying the TIP121 power transistor. A Ford ISV is much better, draws less current and has more resolution to boot. Have you got yourself an inlet manifold sorted yet?

I'm going to be using a 20v inlet manifold modified to fit using the bottom section of the standard manifold, so I might use a 20v throttlebody with the ISV built into it. I have a mk3 8v one at the mo, though. :?

[mrbeige 0]

Did a bit more today, mostly I've been preparing the block ready for some paint :D

 

Finally got the engine on the stand. Woohoo!

 

Most of the masking done!

 

The plan is to use the crank seal plates to mask off where the paint should go up to. I'm assuming that it wouldn't give a good seal if I were to paint under where the seals go??

 

Am I going a bit OTT with the masking??

[blue95 0]

Looking good dude! 8)

 

I prefer to mask up as much as I can up front, as its easier than removing excess paint afterwards.

 

What you planning to paint it with? and what colour? Blue?

[mrbeige 0]

Looking good dude! 8)

 

I prefer to mask up as much as I can up front, as its easier than removing excess paint afterwards.

 

What you planning to paint it with? and what colour? Blue?

Cheers dude.

 

Painting it with some POR15 enamel engine paint, it chemically bonds itself to the metal, so masking off stuff is probably a really good idea, if I do say so myself :lol: And its going to be black.

[mrbeige 0]

Today I've mostly been applying etch primer to the block. Unfortunately I had to sort out some left over dirt/grease in some of the nooks and crannies of the block. I also had to re-mask some of the block, as the masking tap did get pretty wet :( Hopefully I should get the paint on it tomorrow. :)