Bens Corrado G60 - engine woes and a long to do list

[owen g60 10]

As stated above the co pot needs connecting, this can cause major issues not being done.

 

The pipe connecting from the throttle body to boost return needs removing and both the throttle body and boost pipe plugging up.

 

As for the blanked off pipe that's where some people fit a blow off valve. Only normally done with a welded throttle body outlet and isv delete.

[Album56 0]

Picture 4 it looks like the connector for the CO pot/air temp sensor is lying underneath that big blanking plug in the boost pipe, can just see what looks like the back end of it. Its a 3 pin plug that plugs directly into the sensor & gives the ECU vital info, without it the ECU is probably running in limp home mode.

Cant help with the delete boost return pipework/blanking I'm afraid, my pipework is standard apart from a boost dump stop valve in the ISV pipework, a mod that was fitted at the same time as the charger pulley/chip before I owned it.

Regards Mick

[bendunstan 10]

Thanks for all the help and advice, The sensor was indeed just lurking behind the plug. Woke up refreshed this morning so took a proper look at the old girl and see whats what. Firstly i took the complete boost return system off and then all the intercooler pipework from the throttlebody back.

 

Looking through the history of the car it seems that the car has been maintained quite well so i got a bit annoyed when noticed a crap bit of pipe causing a huge boost leak (the clear one which went into throttle body). A quick trip to the shop and i have now got some correct piping to blank off the two holes and i also got some sump plugs to cap the end off. The chap did have some actual plugs but i thought that if i can thread the sump plugs into the pipework it will give a better seal as well as the jubilee clips. Seems to have worked a charm and looks a million times better than it was. I reconnected everything PROPERLY!!!! and went for the all important test run. After letting the G60 warm properly i eased up the pace and the response and urgency was much improved. The cars acceleration was much more immediate and torque improved. It was hardly a slouch to start with.:dance:

 

Ive decided im going to go for the boost return delete mod too. My car is only going to be doing 5000 miles a year and i will probably service the charger once every 4 anyway. I dont think the life span will be reduced too much and i can always change it back if i dont like it. My only real reservation about this is the oil mist that you get in the engine bay, i was wondering if it would change anything if i was to use a longer tube and route it so that it dumps the air out the underside of the car or as near to it as possible. Would this still give me the noise that you get with the mod?

 

Other than this untill i have been to the rolling road session at stealth on 27th October organised by jim, see here for details Rolling Road Day, im going to be leaving the car alone and depending on the outcome of the RR day will depends on what happens to the G60 over the winter.

 

In other news, I currently have a stereo in the car (Came with the car) which consists of a JVC cd headunit with two unidentified front speakers and some jbl GTO 6x9's (with alpine covers:bonk:) in the parcelshelf. Im looking to get rid of the stereo out of the car completely so if anybody has a parcelshelf without the holes in i would happily do a swap. Its not really my thing but other people might like it. See pics below if you or anybody you know might be interested.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75650[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75651[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75652[/ATTACH]

Edited September 15, 2013 by bendunstan

[bendunstan 10]

So a little update, finally done the boost return delete and I couldn't be happier although the wife now refuses to get in the car and I don't think the neighbours are too happy about the noise either.

 

I had a fairly lengthy chat with the guys at OCD about doing this mod and recommended that because my car will be doing limited mileage then popping a cap of oil into the charger every 1000 miles and I should be golden!

 

Taken the car out a few times now and think the cobwebs have been blown out now. Seems to be much happier on super unleaded than whatever was in the tank when i got it as torque, response and power seem to be improved. Although I might have to do a few extra hours to pay for the fuel!!!

 

All the stereo is now out of the car too awaiting its new owner. The wife surprised me by buying me a car cover from halfords which protects against mould, damp and condensation. A triple layer jobbie which so far seems really good value for money.

 

Like all corrado stories though there is a downside. After a evening jaunt, parked the car on the drive and went In the house. My wife decided we needed something from shops for dinner so I happily volunterred, any excuse for another drive!, but the car wouldn't start. All lights come on. Fuel pump whirrs all dash lights come on and then go out but noting happens, the car doesn't try and turn over. I'm assuming it'd something to do with the immobiliser? Any ideas what else it could be?

[seanl82 23]

Should start with the factory immobiliser, but cut out after around two seconds. My money would be on the ignition switch. Doxyou get a click from the starter motor or anything?

[bendunstan 10]

No click from starter motor or anything. It just doesn't start turning over at all. Everything seems to work electrically except ignition. What's best way to test the ignition switch? Get the trusty multi meter out? Gonna go through fuses too in case it's something simple but was way too dark when got home to check them.

 

Any ideas what could have caused the ignition switch to fail? I don't run a stereo and this has been removed prior to any weekend drives so doubt this could have caused a short. Had been to petrol garage while car was hot and started fine and it started fine when cold with no bother. Guess I should be thankful it happened on the drive.

 

I was wondering if somebody might have a picture of a standard Ecu chip too. After rooting about the extras that came with the car I have found another Ecu chip which doesn't look like something vw would use. I've attached a comparable pic which looks the same

 

Anybody shed some light on this? Cheers

[seanl82 23]

Ignition switches are very common problems mate. Have a look in the wiki as there is a guide on how to change them. Bit of a ball ache but as said, its pretty common. You can test if its the switch by bypassing it. Have a search as I cant remember how to I'm afraid. Switches are still available from the dealer for around the £25 mark. I'd suggest you dont go for a cheaper alternative after hearing of them being faulty after a very short time. :thumbleft:

[paddy26 3]

Check the starter 1st as its the easiest.

Use a jump lead and a short piece of wire.

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR.

Remove the electrical plug, single red/black wire, from the starter and connect your jump lead (+12v) to the starter(where you removed the red/black wire) using your short piece of wire. If it doesn't turn over you have a starter issue.

 

Alternatively, if you have a multimeter, you can check that red/black wire for 12v while someone holds the ignition key to start.

 

If there's no power there you need to get access to the electrical connector on the ignition switch or the rear of the fusebox (H1/1) and check if there is 12v while holding the ignition switch to start.

 

It will most likely be the ignition switch, so you should prob gain access to the wires from there.

 

\Paddy

[bendunstan 10]

Thanks for the advice guys, so had a proper look at the car last night. The wife had picked up a new ignition switch from the main dealer and I swapped it out. Turn the key and........ Nothing! So I called my dad! Checked fuses, did some trick with starter and jump leads and then noticed a loose cable under the boost hoses. Yep all my problems were caused by a disconnected plug! Slightly red faced the g60 purred into life first turn if the key. Swapped old ignition switch back as its been replaced recently by the looks of things and the cars golden again.

 

All smiles here again and a reminder to check the simple things before expecting the worst.

 

New mantra for me - keep it simple, stupid! :)

[bendunstan 10]

Update,

 

A visit to my parents this past weekend have i think well and truely blown the cobwebs out of the car this trip was not without its faults though. After a 120mile trip to the folks i literally pulled up outside the house and the throttle pedal fell to the floor. I dont think i would have laughed if it had happened 20mins earlier when i was on the M20 but i did see the funny side of it. I thought the throttle cable had snapped but it was actually the little rubber bush that the cable pops into in the accelerator pedal arm. A quick trip to GSF and a huge bill of £1.30 and the car was running again, untill the hook part of the throttle cable then snapped. Dad has temporarily fixed it by welding it back together as nowhere local could source a new cable and i have one on order at local VW dealer.

 

Dad had a bit of a look around the car as hes very much more mechanically minded than me and has no reason to wear rose tinted glasses when looking at the car as i seem to and apart from needing some new rear discs and pads (will change bearings at same time) it seems pretty sound. We spent a little time tidying up the loom in the engine bay as it looked a bit of a birds nest behind the nearside headlight and we discovered why my boost pipe keeps popping off. the steel ring in the pipe has wiggled its way down so the jubilee clip was compressing the two pipes onto nothing. Again another little issue fixed and it was probably caused by me when i reattached the starter motor cable that had plagued me in the previous post as i had to undo the pipe to get to starter.

 

So whats in store for the G60 in the future, well im going to take a rather adventurous route and i would like to convert the car into a 20v G60. There is a wealth of knowledge on vortex forum but it cam be overwhelming sometimes. If anybody has any experience of this set up i would love to hear from you. Im not really interested in huge power gains as im very much aware that popping a 20v turbo engine in would give me much more power but i dont want to loose the G60 charger.

 

The shopping list then looks something like this

20V AEB Head

ABA 4 Layer Metal Head Gasket

16V Crankshaft Sprocket 26T

20V AWP Camshaft Gear

8V Intermediate Shaft (machined to fit the 20v Cam gear)

OEM 9A 16V Timing Belt Tensioner

153T Timing Belt Curvlinier 2 Profile

AEB 1.8T Pistons

AEB 1.8T Connecting Rods

Exhaust Manifold A3/Gold 1.8 20v NA plus custom exhause from mani back

Audi TT Intake Manifold

Custom Chip

ABA Crankshaft (machine down 5.9mm)

Peugeot Distributor

OEM Turbo Oil Pan

G60 Intercooler or similar

Supercharger Rebuild to Stage 3/4

Bigger Injectors

HT Leads

 

 

My plan is to buy a complete AEB engine from a seat leon cupra and rob the head, pistons and con-rods as it seems that it will be the easiest way to get all these parts. As long as they are from a fairly low mileage engine i dont think i will have a problem. I need a machine shop to get the intermediate shaft and the AWP cam gear to fit together and other than getting a Front mount intercooler plumbed in it shouldnt be that much hassle. Obviously i will need a trip to a RR to get a custom map but with stealth Racing literally up the road i shall have a chat to them and see whats possible.

 

Im in no rush to get this done and am to be honest still researching about the project so for now am beginning to collect all the needed parts.

 

Questions i have,

 

What BHP could i expect from this kind of set up? I was thinking about 250 and id be well happy with that!

 

Do i really have to use a rallye/golf g60 intercooler or can i choose something a little more affordable? I keep seeing them for sale for around £500 and i think thats a bit too rich!

 

Can anybody see any obvious problems with this set up?

 

 

 

Thanks all

 

Ben

[bendunstan 10]

Hi all.

 

So i worked me way through one of my cars little nuances this weekend. I purchased a new(well new to me, actually its second hand off another forum member) entire passenger electric window mech and motor and set myself a couple of hours aside as i had read what a problematic job it could be. After drilling and punching the 7 rivits out and then undoing the two window bolts (after taping the window up) it took alot of effort and plenty of swearing to get the bloody thing out! Whoever designed that needs shooting, or at least a large kick up the backside.

 

Anyway getting the new mech in was alot easier for some reason, maybe something to do with taking the inner and outer lower window seals out to get a little movement in the window.

 

Instead of using the rubbers to mount it and riviting them back in i decided that i would use some M6 bolts and some rubber washers so that it would be a little easier to swap out the motor etc should i need to do this again in the future. See pics

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]76089[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76090[/ATTACH]

 

It was a little fiddy putting the washers behind the door and the bolt through them but its worked nicely so should still dampen the vibration but make it a little easier to change if there is a next time. The rest of it i rivited back up as it was.

 

Other than shards of glass, indicating the cars probably been broken into at some point in its life i found these two little bits of metal. I dont know what they are and if anybody can shed some light on them id be most appreciated

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]76091[/ATTACH]

 

im pretty sure that i didnt break anything and nothings stopped working so can only assume they are the remnant of something non factory?

 

So when i find a central locking pump dare i say i will have a 100% working corrado.....for now :)

Edited October 20, 2013 by bendunstan

[fla 9]

those are from the door lock - the striker pins that often break due to corrosion. Dave16v make some superb replacements but you wont (shouldn't) need them as it seems that this has been taken care of.

[bendunstan 10]

Ah, thanks for the heads up. Well the passenger door locks and unlocks as it should and the door handle works on the inside and the outside so i can only assume that its been fixed but the broken bits not taken out.

 

Once again thanks for letting me know. Just glad its relatively good news and not another item i need to replace :thumbleft:

[GrahamU 5]

My plan is to buy a complete AEB engine from a seat leon cupra and rob the head, pistons and con-rods as it seems that it will be the easiest way to get all these parts.

 

Hi Ben,

 

Will watch this with interest just to see how its done but do you realise the Leon didn't come with an AEB, you want a Passat or Audi A4 for that engine.

 

The AEB has the large port head so if you want a Golf/Leon with one of those you will need to get an AGU (But I think the 180bhp Leons all came with the AUM small port engine)

[bendunstan 10]

Hi Ben,

 

Will watch this with interest just to see how its done but do you realise the Leon didn't come with an AEB, you want a Passat or Audi A4 for that engine.

 

The AEB has the large port head so if you want a Golf/Leon with one of those you will need to get an AGU (But I think the 180bhp Leons all came with the AUM small port engine)

 

Thanks for the info, i was told that the engines in the 99 leon cupra were ayp or aeb. not sure what the difference is to be honest. Glad thats sorted though, Like i said its still a bit of a fact finding mission at the min as i obviously want to reduce the amount of faffing about and do it right once. I did look into using an AGU head but, not that im trying to cut corners or costs, the aeb engine seems to be a better replacement and they are relatively cheap for an complete engine. i can rob other bits and possibly sell the turbo/block etc and recoup some costs so it makes better financial sense too. I have a couple more questions regarding ancilleries etc but just looking through pictures of other peoples cars and getting inspiration from those.

 

Its definately not gonna be a quick project but i hope that the effort i put in before even turning a spanner will pay dividends to the final build and result in a better product.

 

The worst thing about the project is that the cost of the intercooler and the charger rebuild actually amount to more than all the other components needed to finish it. Going to treat the car to a decent set of weitec TX coilovers as i dont like the fixed damping of the current ones fitted and i dont think they are expensive ones regardless. Some cheapo AP racing things but they do the job at the min and came on the car so shouldnt grumble.

 

A question about brakes though, will the G60 stoppers with some good quality discs and pads be enough to stop 250+ bhp or is it time to start factoring in the costs of a bigger brake set up. Been looking at changing the rears to Mk4 items already.

 

Once again all help with this project is appreciated, im hardly a master mechanic so im sure there is be a steep learning curve ahead. Its only a bunch of bolts and blocks of metal though, how hard can it be :bonk:

[GrahamU 5]

AEB and AGU are very similar engines but the AEB was mounted inline and the AGU is transverse. You would probably be better with the AGU as it will already have the inlet manifold you want. Although the passats and A4s are cheap to buy :)

 

280s may be a little small for 250bhp, you could look at 288/315 on a 5 stud conversion or maybe 288/315 on a 4 stud by following this thread

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=45434

[bendunstan 10]

AEB and AGU are very similar engines but the AEB was mounted inline and the AGU is transverse. You would probably be better with the AGU as it will already have the inlet manifold you want. Although the passats and A4s are cheap to buy :)

 

280s may be a little small for 250bhp, you could look at 288/315 on a 5 stud conversion or maybe 288/315 on a 4 stud by following this thread

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=45434

 

dont suppose you know if the pistons and conrods for the agu and aeb are the same? will check the link out to the brakes

[GrahamU 5]

Yeah, should be the same, have a look here

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?34368-1-8T-20V-Engine-codes-FAQ

[bendunstan 10]

About time i posted the results of the rolling road.

 

Maximum BHP achieved on the day 167.9

Maximum Torque achieved on the day 171.4lb ft

Maximum speed reached in test 123.7mph

 

Rather impressed for what is a fairly standard 21 year old car. The car is running a 68mm pulley, G-Werks chip, boost return delete, intercooler to throttle body metal bahn brenner pipes, cat back sebring exhaust and a K&N panel filter in stock airbox.

 

A couple of issues have been identified, mainly that there is a small crack in my boost pipe which goes to the ECU, a very small split in one of my intercooler pipes covered up by the jubilee clip and my car has no idle screw (thanks Owen G60 & JMC) which causes not only a vacuum in the throttle body it also creates a loud whistle which can become annoying after after a while. Not sure what witchcraft the car uses but its never skipped a beat and idles brilliantly........... i can only assume my ISV is doing some serious overtime.

 

Looking for a idle screw, my local VW are not being very helpfull and the copy of ETKA i had doesnt work anymore so cant get the part number myself. Not had a chance to go looking round breakers or anything and to honest.

 

Anyway, thanks to everybody who had a butchers at the car and pointed out the said things above, they will be changed in the near future and the car should be running sweeter than ever.

 

Hers my RR graphs and a video of the first run, thanks Mic-vr for the use of your gopro camera :thumbleft:.

 

Cover Sheer[ATTACH=CONFIG]76222[/ATTACH]

BHP[ATTACH=CONFIG]76223[/ATTACH]

Torque[ATTACH=CONFIG]76224[/ATTACH]

 

Run 1[video=youtube_share;40tK6XEXiMM]

 

Really pleased with the results and know i have a solid base for future plans with the car.

[clumpy1 11]

What are the wheel's on your car Ben.

[bendunstan 10]

Answers on a postcard!

 

They are made by wolfrace according to the wheels themselves but I have no idea what model and I can't find them anywhere on the old interweb.

 

Good straight wheels but not my choice of wheel. Will eventually get something different on there but they will do for a while.

Edited November 3, 2013 by bendunstan

[bendunstan 10]

So was just out for a drive and the water pipe which comes out of the engine block and I think goes to the heater matrix? Has split. I have temp fixed it by cutting off split bit and reconnecting it so need a new one. My Etka no longer works "64bit pcs and all :(" so could somebody tell me about this pipe? Part number if possible and if Im likely to be able to get one from the dealer. Also, how much of a ball ache it is to fit as I can only see one end and really don't want to have dash out

 

 

 

Luckily it happened and I noticed real quick so temp only got up to 100 before I investigated.

 

As always any help is appreciated. I will try and research this myself when Home so I'm not being totally lazy, honest

[bendunstan 10]

Been a while since my last update. Wish I had some better news to share, the car has developed a rather distasteful engine noise which I'm trying to diagnose. All ideas are welcome and appreciated

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?p=1038849

 

On top of this the car needs a few things to get it ready for its mot......

 

New coilovers,

New top mounts all round,

New front wishbones and bushes

New engine mounts

New rear wheel bearings

New discs and pads all round ( only needs rears but gonna do the lot)

New exhaust rubbers.

 

Gonna be expensive so buying bits here and there and going to attack the car with a mate all in one weekend provided the engine problem isn't an engine out issue.

 

Hopefully I will be able to report good news when she's all back on the road.

 

Ps. If anybody has any of the above for sale i will probably be interested

Edited August 11, 2014 by bendunstan

[bendunstan 10]

*Update on the horrible noise, hoping a nice forum member can help me out though and a couple of minor changes

 

After completely removing the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold, replacing all gaskets and actually doing the exhaust manifold up to the correct torque i can gladly report that there is no cracked manifold and no more blowing at the exhaust. Unfortunately the noise is still there.

 

While i had the inlet manifold off i discovered a bit of a nasty surprise in that two of my injectors are cracked with one more looking like its not far away. I know these have to be replaced but have had a quick scout on the old interweb and have only come across some ropey second hand ones. If any forum member local to me happens to have a spare set i can borrow until i can find a decent set so that i can see if its truly the root cause of the noise then i would be most grateful.

 

Fingers crossed for this easy fix!

 

While i had the car in bits i painted the rocker cover and boost pipes as i was sick of what the previous owner had done.

 

Before

[ATTACH]79489[/ATTACH]

 

After

[ATTACH]79490[/ATTACH]

 

Attached although some oily finger prints

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