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brian g60 corrado

vr6 timing chain noise above 1200k

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hi got a vr6 97r-reg booo.and have a slight noise at about 1-2k around the timing chain area -g-box.......cars done about 50-60k alls good .should i worry -or not yet .

cheers .

brian. 8)

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Is it a rythmic slapping noise with undertones of gravel and marbles ? Good description eh? :lol:

 

If it is then you'll need to lift the rocker cover and inspect the upper tensioner for wear.

 

That shouldn't be happening on 60K old engine though.

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"Slight noise"?

If it's a bit low on oil you might find it's unable to build enough pressure to keep the chain tensioned. First step I'd say is make sure you have plenty of oil, VRs seem to like having the level pretty much up to the max line. Second is to get inspecting that tensioner if you're worried about it.

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That doesn't happen Matt. So long as the oil pump has got it's nose in the oil, there will be pressure available for the tensioner bolt. Given the pickup is right at the bottom of the sump and it's unlikely Brian's oil level is off the dipstick, I can confidently outrule that.

 

You could try a new tensioner bolt though, they do on rare occasions leak.

 

K

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I've heard people comment that VRs can be noisier if the oil level isn't 100%, that's why I mentioned it... I'm sure you're right though, as long as there's oil for the pump to pump pressure should be fine..!! :)

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You could be right about the noise but there aren't many things for the pump to supply, unlike VTEC systems which rely on plenty of oil pressure. My oil is never anywhere but at max, so I can't tell you for sure.

 

The biggest danger of low oil is dry running the big end bearings during hard cornering. Not good.

 

K

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thanks for replies ,the oil level is always keeped at max ,also just changed oil and filter.and noise still there

.is it possible to change the tentioner pad without removing the gearbox,also do you have to remove the intake manifolds to get the camcover off.

cheers.

brian.

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We have heard rumours of people swapping the tensioner pad without getting access to the lower inspection panel, but you need to drill the old rivets out, and then rivet the new pad on, which is a complete GIT of a job, by all accounts. If you're doing it yourself, fine, spend the time, but if you're paying someone, it may be worthwhile just biting the bullet and dropping the gearbox - at least that way you KNOW what you're getting into.

The guide rail, however, can be changed without removing the gearbox. These can break apparently (tho mine was fine at 118k miles).

You will have to remove the intake manifold, yes...

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Having studied the end casings, I've found that to be a load of poo. It's impossible without dropping the box or breaking something unnecessarily.

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Well yeah, you can't really get to the lower rivets easily (at all), but I've read a thread detailing someone's successful attempt to do this, so either he's talking BS or it worked for him.

It'd be very strange to see worn out tensioner at such low mileage, so I'd say if you're worried, inspect the tensioner, but if not, look elsewhere for the cause of the noises.

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Hang on, if this is a 97 R reg, maybe the rattling comes from the VGI-related gubbins that went onto the later engines?

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He's got a Golf VR6 and it won't have the variable inlet. Only the 4Motion got that, and then subsequently the R32.

 

K

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Kev:

 

I have heard that some later VR6 (1996 onwards) do in fact have the variable inlet manifold and have some sort of white plastic rod that goes inside it.... a few guys on the vortex forum have talked about it and shown how to remove and fit it.... as it does rattle badly apparently...

 

Scott

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