VR6 Metal Headgasket - Anything I Should Know?

[P3rks 11]

Hello all,

 

I'm going to be re-newing my headgasket on my VR6 soon and I'm going to use the later metal headgasket.

 

Is there anything special I should know or be doing? I've heard of some people using a copper gasket sealant otherwise it can leak? Any info or help would be awesome.

 

Thanks

[petemcr 10]

I've just used one I got from Stealth racing on my VR to raise the compression, I think a lot of people use copper gasket to make sure it gets a good seal, I've had my head skimmed but not the bottom so I've used it, Vince at Stealth told me they use a paste they get from America just on the side where the oil breather is as this is where it is known to leak, but I didn't fancy paying £17+vat for a big tub when all you use is a very small amount.

[P3rks 11]

So what stuff did you use? The tub from

Stealth or did you find a cheaper alternative? I'm struggling finding anything sub £20 in the UK - it's all american.

 

How did you apply it? On the gasket? Or the bottom end? Both faces or? And is it a case of a think layer; wait fur it to tack then put the head on?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The metal gaskets are fine but are intended for use on freshly machined surfaces, so preparation is the key here.

 

VR6 heads are prone to corrosion because of the old G10 coolant, or previous owners just not bothering with any anti-freeze at all. This can leave chuffing great pits in the head which the metal gasket won't like one bit.

 

If your head is pitted, clean it up, fill the pits with chemical metal and then get it skimmed. Q Bond is by far the best stuff for jobs like that - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Q-Bond-Superglue-Adhesive-Filling-Anything/dp/B003YI421I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389175835&sr=8-2&keywords=q+bond+adhesive

 

Clean the block as best you can and it will seal OK.

[P3rks 11]

I have a freshly re-manufactured head, well two actually, I need to sell one but the head I'll use is perfect.

 

With the block I always spend hours with a emery cloth and a sanding block getting the surface as clean as possible.

 

So Kev, don't you think I'll need any copper spray?

 

The gasket is genuine VAG too and I'll be using ARP studs.

[Brunty 10]

I've used a few metal layered gaskets now and not had any problems. They are so much better than fibre I will only use them now. I've never used any sort of sealing compound though, and I've used them on young and old (9A) engines.

[Brunty 10]

Oh, and aside from taking off any bits of old fibre gasket, I wouldn't go rubbing the face of the head down at all. If you've got any imperfections on it or a warp it'll need to be skimmed.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

So Kev, don't you think I'll need any copper spray?

 

I did use Permatex Copper "Spray-a-Gasket" on my VR6 turbo with a head spacer and it seemed OK. I've also used a metal gasket with no spray and it was also fine!

 

Personally I don't like using anything on gaskets, but if there's a need for it, so be it! I think you'll be fine without it to be honest.

[P3rks 11]

Sounds good to me then. I won't use any unless I find an issue with the bottom end. :)

 

Thanks for all your help guys.

[Stonejag 10]

Personally I'm leery of putting anything on the gasket - they're designed to seal, after all, and the head bolts are crushing it down a *lot* tighter than most people expect. I've seen some really horrible dissimilar-metal corrosion caused by people putting copper-bearing grease on things than aren't supposed to be greased in the past, and you already have issues with it on these engines (combination of cavitation and acidic coolant causing the coolant passages to get eaten out of the head where it meets the block) so I'd hate to tempt fate.

 

When I finally get around to finishing my head rebuild (need to press out the old valve guides and fit new so someone can ream them to size and redo the seats for me) I'm going to be using the metal gasket currently sat in my parts pile...and it won't get anything extra smeared on it.

 

Stone