Rear disc change

[JAM11E 10]

Hi All,

 

I know it's been covered many times, Im still a little unsure.

 

Am i right in saying to change the rear disc's I need to remove the bearing first? And to do this I just hammer it out, take disc off, place new disc on, put new bearing in?

 

Do my replacement discs each need an ABS rotor?

 

Thanks

Edited February 28, 2014 by JAM11E

[paddy26 3]

Damn you tapatalk. I thought I was on a different forum again.

 

bearings are part of the disc.

Remove caliper, remove carrier.

Remove large nut that holds disc.

Take bearing from your old disc and put it in your new disc, with new grease.

Then reinstall everything.

The large nut should not be overtightened.

I'll see if I can find the setting for this: Thrust washer should be moveable using finger pressure against screwdriver without prying.

 

Also forgot to say, you can remove the old abs rotor from the old disc and reuse it.

Edited February 28, 2014 by paddy26

[JAM11E 10]

What car?

 

My bad 1994 VR6

[delfinis38 1]

as above.... but make your life a bit easier and put new pads and bearings in.

[seanl82 23]

The bearings are not part of the disk, the races are just pressed in. The disk with bearings attached will just pull out as soon as the large nut is off. I wouldn't advise re-using bearings, but if you do then the races can be knocked out from behind using using a flat head screwdriver or punch. Be careful though. If you're using new bearing anyway, new races come with them (they are tapered bearings so separate races if that wasn't clear), and need to be pressed into the disk using a suitable hydraulic press, or a 34mm socket? (around that size iirc - the same diameter as the race), and carefully hammer it down. races then just sit in behind the weather seal. As said, don't tighten the nut up too much, finger tight only. If you tighten it up too much, the heat generated will expand the bearings and destroy them whilst you're driving. Ask me, I know.............:ignore:

[sankysvr6 0]

I've been doing this job today, here's a guide for a MK3 but it's more or less the same.

 

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/rearbrakes/index.htm

 

You would be better of putting in new bearings and maybe even new abs rings, hardest part I found were getting the carrier bolts off. Might be a good idea to get new ones of these as well.

[JAM11E 10]

Update: one of the carrier bolts was rounded from a previous owner,

 

Back to the drawing boards. As in, hammer, chisel and lots of shouting.

[dragon green 4]

You need Irwins easy outs !

[JAM11E 10]

You need Irwins easy outs !

 

Got a link?

[dragon green 4]

http://m.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028?filtered=true

[sankysvr6 0]

Hope its okay to add on to this thread Jam11e, but it might help someone else as well.

 

I have taken nearly everything apart on the rear brakes, I just need to know how the brake shield is removed? There is a metal type collar that is in the way of the stub axle bolts, which I presume is what's holding the shield on.

 

Picture attached of brake shield.

 

 

So my question as follows,

 

1. Do I need to take this collar off first to get the stub axle bolts off and how is it meant to come off.

 

3. Is the collar still available, as I don't want to butcher it if I cant get replacements.

Edited March 3, 2014 by sankysvr6

[JAM11E 10]

Bump for last post

[dragon green 4]

There's no collar ! It's part of the stub

Rear brake diagram,from VAGCAT

Rear axle

[sankysvr6 0]

It's number 18 in the bottom pic, I've got it off now. There are 2 different parts for this.

 

One is for cars with ABS, the other is without. Good news is that it's still available from VW.

 

That part sits on the stub axle, you can see it the pic, partly covering the bolts.

[harrisvr6 0]

Hi All,

 

Sorry to hijack your post. I need to replace my rear discs and pads, stupidly for some reason I thought it would be the same procedure as the fronts, I was wrong (lucky I had a little research first or I'd be proper buggered past a point of no return right now).

 

Anyways, I ordered the new bearings today as I had only bought the discs and pads upto now. The video guide I watched, the mechanic said that the 2 carrier bolts, which are a 'bastad' to get off should really be replaced too.

In the top picture (which is what they had/showed me at TPS) is it number 4? The video guide I watched the guy said there was 2 of these, does this mean the other one is number 3. Are these the 2 bolts I should probably replace rather than re-use, sorry if this is a silly question, but I want to get it right.

 

Apparently you cant buy standard genuine VW discs or carriers anymore. Which is a bit weird I thought

If I do not have the wind back tool, will it damage the piston using a G clamp? (assuming I open the bleeder and or tank lid)

[fla 9]

The rear calipers wont press back they're on a screw thread so you'll need some sort of windback tool. I think they're about £15 or thereabouts.

[Dox 22]

You can get away without the windback tool but it is a fiddle, push a little, turn the piston 90 degrees clockwise, push, turn 90, etc etc For the turn I used an old angle grinder key.

 

I've got this kit, good value with L/H and R/H winding tools

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19pcs-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Rewind-Wind-Back-Tool-Kit-Universal-Car-Auto-/222247761580?hash=item33beffb6ac:g:cUsAAOSwFdtX1mCg

[delfinis38 1]

You can get away without the windback tool but it is a fiddle, push a little, turn the piston 90 degrees clockwise, push, turn 90, etc etc For the turn I used an old angle grinder key.

 

I've got this kit, good value with L/H and R/H winding tools

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19pcs-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Rewind-Wind-Back-Tool-Kit-Universal-Car-Auto-/222247761580?hash=item33beffb6ac:g:cUsAAOSwFdtX1mCg

 

Ha ha. Done the angle grinder key trick myself in the past when I was poor....:)

[delfinis38 1]

Change the carrier bolts.. you can buy them off eBay... they are expensive as they are high tensile.. don't forget to torque them up to the required amount. you may need a set of irwins to get them out... if you've ordered disc and pads and bearings I'd change the abs ring too. It taps onto the back of the disc.

 

New carriers and calipers are available from vwspares

 

 

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_brakes.php

 

But you might want to think about going mk4 golf route if changing a calipers.

Edited March 3, 2017 by delfinis38

[harrisvr6 0]

What number in the schematic is the carrier bolts 4 or 3?

[Dox 22]

3 are the ones that hold the carrier to the stub axle which usually get damaged removing them (hammering the allen key all the way to the bottom of the bolt helps as does a quality allen key), 4 are usually in the box with new pads.

[harrisvr6 0]

Hi Dox,

 

Thanks man,

I just ordered both, brand new is piece of mind, and I dont want troubles later on.

 

I really dreading that I strip them getting them off, and have to buy the tool. Do you reckon a few pre soaks with WD40 a day or two before will make them come off easier. I am actually dreading stripping them and having to fork out for the remover tool too. they look like they've never come off.

[coullstar 0]

They'll look a lot worse that they actually are once cleaned up. If you can get in there and give a few whacks with a hammer as well. try get some Plusgas and use that instead of WD40.

Ive also in the past poured hot water from a kettle on them heat and vibration always help break out bolts etc.