robrado974 1 Posted July 24, 2014 As some of you will know i am planning on getting the underside of the VR sorted over the winter and early summer period . Im thinking the best way is to purchase the parts i need from breakers on the forum and what i can find on fleabay .Then get them blasted and painted .Some parts i can get from veedubmachine [wishbones ].Am i right in thinking this is better than stripping my car ,then leaving the car on jacks and stands for a long period of time . This way i hope to have everything i need and swop it all over . I plan to use some sort of waxoil treatment on the body ,opions on which product is best and easy to use please . Right ,down to the parts . I dont have my manual to hand , so a little help needed please ,as to what needs to be replaced ,IE , trackrod ends , wish bones , the axle parts ,new bushes , suspension holding parts [ i cannot remember the names of half the parts i need !]but you can see what is rusty by looking underneath ..Any nuts n bolts that are bound to shear or need cutting ? In a nutshell i would like the underside to be as good as i can get it .Any help would be appreciated . Kind regards Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 25, 2014 ChrisL is your man there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted July 25, 2014 refreshing all your running gear will make a great difference it would be a personal preference or 'is there room' regarding if you strip it & put on stands & also regarding whether you reuse some items or get new/refub (eg wishbones themselves) forgive the haphazard listing, im just going top to bottom on my notes about whats done on my VR to date... tie rod ends cv joints & cv boots steering rack & gaitors drop links suspension top mounts & bearings (front & rear) front wishbone bushes (IIRC some use R32 versions for these, i have OEM & they give a nice cushioned feel to my KW V1's) rear beam bushes (again IIRC it is important to use OEM for the beam due to the nature of how it is designed & polybushes have a detrimental effect) brake compensator can be a real pain when changing rear beam bushes & i needed a new one due to butchering it out your idea of collating all parts prior to fitting would give the benefit of you being able to have items like front wishbones & rear beams stripped & powder coated so they look all new (if 2nd hand of course) hope that helps as a starter but its well worth speaking to members here who have stunning undersides to their cars Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 25, 2014 To powder coat/refurb: Subframe Rear beam Wishbones Anti roll bar Wheel bearing housing(or hub as some call it) Rad Support Lower cross member (with front engine mount in it) Brake calipers Small brackets that hold ARB bushes on (inboard one that fix to subframe) Steering rack bush bracket Parts you might replace: Wheel bearing ARB Droplinks Wishbones bushes (front and rear) Engine and gearbox mounts Brake dust shields Lower Ball joints Steering rack bush ARB bushes Track rods Track rods ends ABS sensors (hard to remove in one piece if having bearing housing refurbed) ABS rotors Bolts worth renewing: Subframe bolts x 4no Wishbone bolts x 2no each side Lower ball joint bolts and fixing plate (3no and 1no plate each side) ARB drop link bolts (2no each side, nut and a bolt) ARB Bush bolts x 2no Worth noting a new wheel bearing comes with hub nut, Ball joint nut, track rod end nut and i think 2no locking nuts for the shock absorber lower bolts. Rear beam nuts and bolts x 2no Brake dust shield bolts (3no each side)They can be quite corroded. Front bumper bolts x 4no Cross member bolts (think it 4no of them, might be 6no) (can't remember if they share the bumper bolts or not) Am sure there is more but i'm starting to struggle to remember, probably worth getting some new clips for brake lines, heat shields etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 20 Posted July 25, 2014 That pretty much covers everything I replaced when I did mine. You wil also have to factor in some new brake lines which can be made in copper nickel or buy the remanufactured ones from the forum as some of these will be lost when trying to undo them. When doing the rear beam you will probably have to replace the bias valve as these generally dont come off and you'll end up hacking it off! The compensator springs look good if you wire wheel and have them re-plated. Other little bits are the big clips on the rear beam where the flexi hoses meet the rigid pipes. Handbrake cable clips on the beam You will probably want to renew or re-plate the brake caliper bolts and refurb the hex parts of the slider pins. Exhaust hangers aren't available to i went to some lengths to refurbish mine. Petrol tank straps to powder coat and the clips replated. Exhaust heat sheilds look good after a vapour blast and you may want to replace the clips that hold them on. I'll have a think about the front and add to the list! You will need really deep pockets though.............. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 25, 2014 I wasn't going to mention the cost of all the bits, i did the complete outer cv's and hubs as well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 20 Posted July 25, 2014 My CV's were perfect but I did split the drive shafts apart to powder coat the shafts. THats another thing on the list along with new clips for the rubbers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted July 25, 2014 Chris, how did you secure the clips for the boots? I changed an outer one yesterday and had a bit of a nightmare securing them. I know there's a proper tool, but I used mole grips in the end on the pinch part, although it's not particularly tight which concerns me a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted July 25, 2014 A massive Thankyou to everyone for all the help . Much appreciated . Looking at the huge list , it may be an idea to do some of the work this year and some next year ! . If I had storage and a ramp I would be quite happy to strip it and replace parts when I could . A lot of this will have to be done on the drive , so it's not going to be easy . Kind regards Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 Gar 10 Posted July 25, 2014 If there is anything you need Rob let me know. The one I am breaking is fully polybushed if thats of any interest. Your welcome to pop round anytime and have a poke about it to see what you may want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 20 Posted July 25, 2014 Chris, how did you secure the clips for the boots? I changed an outer one yesterday and had a bit of a nightmare securing them. I know there's a proper tool, but I used mole grips in the end on the pinch part, although it's not particularly tight which concerns me a bit. I bought the genuine clips and borrowed the proper tool from a mate but you can pick the tool up on ebay for a reasonable price Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 25, 2014 yeah, can get that tool for cheap on ebay, i got one with red handles and it works fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted July 25, 2014 If there is anything you need Rob let me know. The one I am breaking is fully polybushed if thats of any interest. Your welcome to pop round anytime and have a poke about it to see what you may want. That would be great Gar . I will keep in touch with you , as obviously you won't want the car hanging around to long and getting in your way . I'm saving at the moment for parts . Could be best if you get in touch when there's nothing but a shell left and you want it gone ? . Good shout as your local to me too . Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
