White VR6 in Windy Yorkshire! :)

[Wayne2015 10]

 

wayne if your unsure just take both out.

 

 

 

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

 

 

 

ha ha ha brilliant wayne lol

[Wayne2015 10]

Oh

 

Was wondering why there was no front floor mats...

 

Certainly from the driver side if push clutch down the bolt/washer underneath pedal securing the pedal aluminium plates in place (added by seller) catches the floor mat and pulls it up to snag with the brake pedal too! :shocked: :eek:

 

 

Aluminium plates removed now.

Can put floor mats in :dance:

[VAG-hag 0]

We were going to do that on the 15th ref just remove one bolt and pivot ...

...but we couldnt figured how to :( :scratch: :tumbleweed:

 

No we weren't Wayne. To change the disc the lot had to come off so it did. Normally a spot of copper slip will help on the pads which im sure we did on the fronts. The rears had some strange sticky pads to stop vibration.

 

Worst case scenario whip front wheels off, roll caliper fwd and remove pads to apply a little (more) slip on the back. Squealing is also caused by excess dust so have a lil spruce up while you are there. Wheels will have to come off when you bleed up anyway....

[delfinis38 1]

I always remove the sticky backing pad dunno if that's right or wrong.

Vaghags right to replace the disc Wayne the whole lot has to be removed. But not if changing pads only.

Edited March 26, 2015 by delfinis38

[Wayne2015 10]

No we weren't Wayne. To change the disc the lot had to come off so it did. Normally a spot of copper slip will help on the pads which im sure we did on the fronts. The rears had some strange sticky pads to stop vibration.

 

Worst case scenario whip front wheels off, roll caliper fwd and remove pads to apply a little (more) slip on the back. Squealing is also caused by excess dust so have a lil spruce up while you are there. Wheels will have to come off when you bleed up anyway....

 

Right, my bad, Chris!

Didnt know u slip some copper slip on front without me knowing! :lol: :thumb right:

 

Had cars in the past and get garage to change pads/disc.

They ALWAYS squeal each time.

Took it back - they add more copper slip -

AND they STIL squeal :eek:

 

 

Some one did say to me once to use a special copper slip????

[Wayne2015 10]

I always remove the sticky backing pad dunno if that's right or wrong.

Vaghags right to replace the disc Wayne the whole lot has to be removed. But not if changing pads only.

 

Ok!

[Wayne2015 10]

Dismantling sunroof motor cover to check when sunny where leaking (or for rust):

 

Remove cabin light / sunroof switch:

 

 

 

 

Motor cover held by 2 screws / washers

(One screw missing washer and not securing cover)

 

 

Surprised allen key still there :thumb right:

Considering amount of missing trims, covers etc on car! :eek:

 

 

Motor cover + cabin light

 

Can only change bulb by removing cabin light +

from side push plastic legs of cabin light cover

 

 

 

 

Only ONE clip then that holds the cabin light to the ceiling?

Edited March 26, 2015 by Wayne2015

[fla 9]

yes one clip. The other side is a plastic step which simply slots in place.

Just saw the CRX btw. Great car, always wanted one, but there just seem to be rust buckets or overpriced junk nowadays.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Squealing brakes can occur if you have non oe pads with the square edges. Modern pads are chamferred so that the noise goes away. Older square edge pads don't struggle with noise if they are decent quality.

 

If you have OE pads, OE discs and the rubber backing and it still squeals, then I'd say that the caliper pistons are sticking either through corrosion or on the rear wheels through the hand brake cables or mechanism being faulty.

 

I don't use copper grease and haven't for years. The rubber backing is designed to eliminate the noise, adding copper grease won't do any harm but is not needed on modern pads.

 

On the mk4 rears, you can get special little springs for little money that holds the hand brake mechanism open under tension when the handbrake is off. Look in my thread for pictures.

[Wayne2015 10]

yes one clip. The other side is a plastic step which simply slots in place.

Just saw the CRX btw. Great car, always wanted one, but there just seem to be rust buckets or overpriced junk nowadays.

 

 

Cheers Hasan

 

My CRX was no major rust, JDM with bronze roof, ICE COLD air con, most important POWER STEERING :) but sadly an auto :(

[Wayne2015 10]

Squealing brakes can occur if you have non oe pads with the square edges. Modern pads are chamferred so that the noise goes away. Older square edge pads don't struggle with noise if they are decent quality.

 

If you have OE pads, OE discs and the rubber backing and it still squeals, then I'd say that the caliper pistons are sticking either through corrosion or on the rear wheels through the hand brake cables or mechanism being faulty.

 

I don't use copper grease and haven't for years. The rubber backing is designed to eliminate the noise, adding copper grease won't do any harm but is not needed on modern pads.

 

On the mk4 rears, you can get special little springs for little money that holds the hand brake mechanism open under tension when the handbrake is off. Look in my thread for pictures.

 

Thanks!

 

Any chance of a Linky to your thread ?

[seanl82 23]

Just had a look at it myself Wayne.

 

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=80155&p=1060022&viewfull=1#post1060022

[Wayne2015 10]

Just had a look at it myself Wayne.

 

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=80155&p=1060022&viewfull=1#post1060022

 

Cheers Sean! :thumb right:

[Wayne2015 10]

Just had a look at it myself Wayne.

 

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=80155&p=1060022&viewfull=1#post1060022

 

Those are HUGE springs ! :)

[loepan 11]

just read this thread, glad you kept with it chap, keep up the good work..

 

i had similar idle issues as you and found the wiring back to the ecu from the lambda sensor corroded and broke, got new connectors to put in the plug and my idle was so much better

 

have a few of these connectors if anybody needs some, think they are called junior power terminals

[Wayne2015 10]

just read this thread, glad you kept with it chap, keep up the good work..

 

i had similar idle issues as you and found the wiring back to the ecu from the lambda sensor corroded and broke, got new connectors to put in the plug and my idle was so much better

 

have a few of these connectors if anybody needs some, think they are called junior power terminals

 

Cheers bud! :)

 

Good to know another possible solution should my car stall again :thumb right:

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

My thread is in my signature Wayne.

 

The springs look large but are about 2 inches long. They just make the hand brake a bit tougher to apply. The worst thing with them is that they are a bit of a pig to fit!

[Wayne2015 10]

Just remember when with Vag-hag, one of the brake lights didnt work when parked up.

 

Then it seem to work again when ignition was on.

 

Dodgy bulb? Lose connection? Or normal? :scratch:

 

 

 

 

Deliberatly turned the ignition ANTI-CLOCKWISE (go backwards from key position 2-1-0 and it DID try to start the car :eek: ???!!!!

 

 

 

 

Another thing

Does the horn work with the ignition off (or key in 1 or 0)??? :shrug:

[Wayne2015 10]

My thread is in my signature Wayne.

 

The springs look large but are about 2 inches long. They just make the hand brake a bit tougher to apply. The worst thing with them is that they are a bit of a pig to fit!

 

Oh ok :thumb right:

[Wayne2015 10]

Update D-Day -1 (Drive to Bristol during Easter)

 

 

Test STALLING: Day 5

- Today, a drive to Manchester (100 miles round trip mostly motorway ...)

[Wayne2015 10]

Does the radiator fan running feel like the whole cabin going thru an earthquake aftershock??? :eek:

 

And then a BIGGER aftershock kicks in vibrating the whole chassis (2nd fan kicking in)??? :shocked!:

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Nope, it's quite a big fan but shouldn't make the car shudder! When it's cooled down, turn the fan by hand, if it feels notchy, replace it asap!

 

Believe me when I say you should replace it if it feels rough or notchy, the fan motors are so large that when they seize, you'll have a fire waiting to happen. Ask me how I know, in fact you can ask Mic_VR aswell, he was there!

[Wayne2015 10]

Nope, it's quite a big fan but shouldn't make the car shudder! When it's cooled down, turn the fan by hand, if it feels notchy, replace it asap!

 

Believe me when I say you should replace it if it feels rough or notchy, the fan motors are so large that when they seize, you'll have a fire waiting to happen. Ask me how I know, in fact you can ask Mic_VR aswell, he was there!

 

:shocked!:

I NOT putting my hand in there!!! :eek:

 

I ll open bonnet and see if both fans turn is that ok???

 

 

 

Shudder.

Well just whole cabin vibrates and its obvious ...

[Wayne2015 10]

Oh

 

Found why rear speaker parcel shelf not working....

 

After TWO weeks, rubbish from Sun 15th still there!

Forgot about it and its moved the speaker contacts thats all! :lol: