timatsorted 0 Posted June 27, 2004 Hi guys. I've just bought a 94 VR6, 80k on the clock. Just had it fully serviced and checked over. Needs an engine mount and two tyres but pretty good apart from that. I need a top tip for starting. It doesn't fire up first time. The manual says that it should be started with the clutch depressed and I've tried this but it still takes two or three goes. It had new plugs in the service. Whats the knack for starting 'em? If I get an up-rated headlamp loom, will I need new bulbs? I have a slight squeak on the steering. sounds like it's inside the car, on the column somewhere. Any ideas? Finally, what sort of oil should I use? Thanks... you'll be hearing from me again, I reckon! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted June 27, 2004 Welcome to the club, I just got a VR of similar mileage as well :D Must be a good week for it! Can't help you with most of it because I'm still learning too, but I'm having the same starting joys. See my thread here for how that progresses. The uprated headlight loom is designed to work with the existing bulbs, it's just more efficient at getting the juice to them so you get less voltage drop and a brighter light. H100VW (Gavin) does a good uprated headlight loom for £50 :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted June 27, 2004 Quantum SIlver semi-synthetic. Available form VW, GSF, ECP etc. If it turns over well enough, but doesn't catch it "might" mean the injectors need cleaning. By that I mean removal, disassembly etc, not just whacking some "injector cleaner" in the tank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scott 0 Posted June 27, 2004 VR6's never start on the key - is always the first / second revolution of the engine when it starts... The noise you mention on the steering is the brass contact that goes between the steering wheel and the ring on the column.. if you look down between them you can see it easily - it picks up dust, etc and get noisy - 5 min job to clean! As for oil - defo 10W 40 Quantum Silver (£10 for 5 litres from VW) Scott. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joebloggsVR69 0 Posted June 27, 2004 The manual says that it should be started with the clutch depressed Are you sure? Whenever I've tried starting the car with the clutch down (foot was on the clutch by accident) the car refused to start! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted June 27, 2004 All cars should be started with the clutch down .... so I thought? Puts less strain on starter motor etc... ? No? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 27, 2004 All cars should be started with the clutch down .... so I thought? Puts less strain on starter motor etc... ? No? Yup... some cars even have an inhibitor which won't allow the car to start unless the clutch pedal is pressed... :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted June 27, 2004 My remaining VR6 started on the key when I 1st had it. It got progressively worse ove 2 years and 50k miles, but was restored to original by having the injectors rebuilt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted June 27, 2004 Yeah I'm starting to think that mine probably needs the injectors rebuilding... :( How much did it cost you and where did you get it done? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted June 27, 2004 From memory about £75 plus VAT. There's a garage that specialize in engine management, ABS and fuel injection systems just 10 minutes walk from where I live. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted June 27, 2004 Oh ok, phew. I was expecting well into triple digits. I need to find somewhere round here that is good. I *can* make the almost 2hr journey up to Stealth, but it's a bit of a mission. Would be nice to get them to check over my new C tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted June 28, 2004 Could also be the immobiliser circuit, or the engine speed sensor on the block. It'll fail to start if either of those are dodgy, and both can cause slow starting too. Don't think there's any surefire ways of testing these things other than replacing them though.. :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted June 28, 2004 Could also be the immobiliser circuit, or the engine speed sensor on the block. It'll fail to start if either of those are dodgy, and both can cause slow starting too. Don't think there's any surefire ways of testing these things other than replacing them though.. :( It doesn't inspire confidence that the original alarm/immobiliser has been taken out and a new one fitted. The new one stops you from even turning the engine over if you haven't dearmed it. There could be something fishy going on with the removed immobiliser I guess :( I'll get the injectors done first and see what happens, if it doesn't solve the start problem it won't do any harm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted June 28, 2004 just cleaning the crank sensor (engine speed sensor) up seems to help it start up better I've found. it's on the front of the block, under the oil cooler. easily accessible from underneath. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timatsorted 0 Posted June 28, 2004 Thanks - guys! Too many top tips in here to count! I'm gonna be busy, I reckon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt buz 0 Posted June 28, 2004 I went to look at a VR6 this saturday and it started on the key first time..........but it sounded like there where marbles in the engine and it dropped a couple of hundred revs when I turned the headlights on........I made my excuses then walked away.....the search will go on! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites