seanrodford 10 Posted October 1, 2015 I have upgraded the brakes on my vr to 312s on the front and mk4 rears all with braided lines and new lines across the beam I have bled and bled all 4 brakes both gravity, with ez bleed, and the conventional way also bled the master cylinder and the abs pump the same way..... The pedal travels a good way of doing nothing before it goes solid there not spongy but the pedal is getting near the floor before you get to any sort of braking..... beginning to get bold spots from.pulling my hair out... Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 1, 2015 Have you got the bleed nipples the right way up (silly question but people have done that in the past) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanrodford 10 Posted October 1, 2015 There on top the calipers not at the bottom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 1, 2015 Not sure about this, but I would have thought you would need a matching master cylinder with 312s? I know that was what I did on my MkII Golf GTI 8v when changing the brakes to G60 callipers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 1, 2015 Nope i know 312s work with standard vr master cylinder. Glad that the obvious question is okay. Definitely sounds like air is still in there mate. I know i had to do mine a few time to get an ok pedal then i drove it and the pedal got better over time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanrodford 10 Posted October 1, 2015 That's what I'm hoping the mot yesterday said they feel bad but the figures are good they said the will have a go bleeding them if I want so I will let them have a go o think if not will have another go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 1, 2015 How are you bleeding it? Eazy bleed, pressure bleeder or the old-fashioned way? And in what order? You need to cable tie the brake bias valve on the rear beam if the car is off the ground, and there are also bleed nipples on the ABS pump if you have one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanrodford 10 Posted October 1, 2015 I gravity filled it then ez bleed then the conventional way the bias valve was loosened and put fully up I have bled about 500ml through each rear and 200 from each front and bled both abs pump nips and the master cylinder too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 1, 2015 Sounds like you are doing the right thing then - it might be worth getting a garage to do it with a pressure brake bleeding system. Sometimes they just need to be bled lots of times to get it right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted October 2, 2015 I constantly fought with the bleeding no matter if it were the standard brakes or the teves 20 stuff with 312's and a mk4 servo and master cylinder. Always difficult to bleed. I think the problem was that the abs pumps trap air easily and are a bit of a pig to properly bleed. My local garage had a vacuum bleeder which seemed to do the job. Getting a nice pedal was always more difficult partly because of the fulcrum point of the brake pedal which is the achilies heel of the entire system. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 2, 2015 http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&method=mViewProduct&productid=9320 Works like a charm - just make sure you read the manual and keep the pressure at a reasonable level. All you have to do then is to make your way round every bleed point, starting at the off-side rear and working your way closer to the master cylinder. You can also release some air from the ABS pump by carefully loosening off the brake line fittings just enough so that you get some fluid seepage while the system is under pressure. Worth a try. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted October 2, 2015 I had the same issue but just drove the car carefully for the first week or so. Settled down nicely after that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted October 2, 2015 I had the same issue but just drove the car carefully for the first week or so. Settled down nicely after that. yea same here when i fitted mk4 rears with new pads, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted October 2, 2015 http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&method=mViewProduct&productid=9320 Works like a charm - just make sure you read the manual and keep the pressure at a reasonable level. All you have to do then is to make your way round every bleed point, starting at the off-side rear and working your way closer to the master cylinder. You can also release some air from the ABS pump by carefully loosening off the brake line fittings just enough so that you get some fluid seepage while the system is under pressure. Worth a try. I have that bleeder, around £40 at times on ebay. 280s, 288s and 312s all have 54mm pistons, so pedal travel should be similar for them all. The pedal does tend to feel a bit better once the brakes have bedded in after 100 miles or so with the occasional good hard stamp on the pedal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
