Rpmayne 0 Posted July 8, 2004 I got a 17mm nut welded to a 10mm allen key bolt to undo the drain/fill plugs, then you can use the nut end and a normal set of allen keys to undo it. Can be bloody tight if its never been off before though, I ended up taking mine down the garage who loosened it then I took it home and did the change (nipping it up again for the journey of course :wink: ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 8, 2004 you could, of course, always just buy the correct 17mm allen socket from somewhere like Halfords for around £5... :roll: :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rpmayne 0 Posted July 8, 2004 There is always that. :) Just had the bits at work to do it, although I lent it to soemone and can't remember who. Might go down that route instead this time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kangaroo 0 Posted July 13, 2004 I replaced the gearbox oil over the weekend and I'd say it has improved shifting by about 50%. Its definitely smoother, and there's less grinding, but its still has a few of the larger notches, especially in second. I'm wondering now if the cables need a bit of adjustment... Changing the oil is well worth doing though, its cheap and only takes about half an hour, and the results are noticible. I took some pictures as I went along and made an uber-idiots guide, which I reckon even a novice could follow. I remember reading somwhere someone was making a Corrado "How To" site, does anyone know who this was? And could I add this to it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 13, 2004 One simple thing overlooked with the gearshift cables is grease! On all the 02As I've tried, a notchy change has generally been cured by greasing the linkages, especially the selector mechanism under the counter weight. Use lots of good old fashioned Castrol CL grease. Fancy white greases and chain waxes are not man enough. A bit of grease on the mech under the gear gaiter helps too, and of course adjustment, which can be done by adjusting the cables at the selector end on the gearbox. There is also a VW tool to align the gearstick mech properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted July 16, 2004 Stonking How-to guide mate :) It's up on the how-to site now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted July 16, 2004 I replaced the gearbox oil over the weekend and I'd say it has improved shifting by about 50%. Its definitely smoother, and there's less grinding, but its still has a few of the larger notches, especially in second. I'm wondering now if the cables need a bit of adjustment... Changing the oil is well worth doing though, its cheap and only takes about half an hour, and the results are noticible. I took some pictures as I went along and made an uber-idiots guide, which I reckon even a novice could follow. I remember reading somwhere someone was making a Corrado "How To" site, does anyone know who this was? And could I add this to it? When you say notchy, do you mean notchy at the shift mechanism, or is it that you can feel resistance in the gearbox/syncro to select the gear (like a fast knocking felt through the lever)? I saw massive improvements when changing to Redline MT90(misguidedly I used to Slick50 too :( ), and most of the time the movement of the lever & the actual gearchange is now very good, but there are occasions where I can feel the sychro struggling to mesh, then I have to dip the clutch again (usually when downchanging to 3rd or second). Changing from first to second at highish revs doesnt work at all, its like 2nd doesnt exist! clutch twice and eventually it goes in! These probs may be down to worn rear engine & g/box mounts (front mount is new) but I fear its actually the synchros that need changing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
randal 0 Posted July 16, 2004 Has anyone got a guide for adjusting the cables? I've got a pain the butt problem of it not wanting to select 2nd cleanly - every other gear is OK. I've recently changed the G/B oil for the Redline stuff too, this has helped - but not that much. Want to try this before anything else it's well - free! Andy T I think I'm going to change my rear mount/gearbox mount soon as I think the engine rocking is pulling the exhaust pipes apart. If this helps the gearchange I'll let you know. At the best randal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kangaroo 0 Posted July 16, 2004 dinkus, thanks mate! :) Just one thing I noticed: the image of the gearbox bolts is the one with the question marks on. I definitely know they are the correct places now, so you can use the one inside the doc file doesn't have question marks. Andy T, yeah, sometimes the notchyness feels like its coming from the syncro's... i can feel an uneasy grindy-wobblyness coming through the stick, as if I've lifted the clutch too soon and am about the crunch the gears. If I rest my hand gently on the stick when its in gear I can also feel an occasional 'wobbly-vibration'... it comes and goes... Then at other times it feels as if its just the stick that's misaligned and the resistence is coming from the mechanism directly beneath it. :? Its tricky to pinpoint, and if I floor it second gear requires quite a bit of force to engage :( I wouldn't mind a guide to adjusting the cables too. The mechanism at the gearbox end looks a nightmare... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted July 16, 2004 dinkus, thanks mate! :) Just one thing I noticed: the image of the gearbox bolts is the one with the question marks on. I definitely know they are the correct places now, so you can use the one inside the doc file doesn't have question marks. No problem, I'll change that pic now :) If you feel like writing up a cable adjustment how-to as well, that'd be grand :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daves16v 1 Posted July 21, 2004 The how to guide for replacing the gearbox oil is for the VR6. How does this differ for other engines? Are the plugs in different places? I've asked dinkus, but he's not sure on this. This issue needs clarifying and adding to the how to guide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kangaroo 0 Posted July 21, 2004 I think its exactly the same for all other C's, although I could be mistaken. Maybe someone else will be able to confirm. The only thing I can think that would be different was the location/size of gearbox plugs, but I don't think that's the case. I'd take a peeky under your car to see if it looks the same as the picture of mine. Its a good point though, and the guide should be changed to mention which cars it applies to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 21, 2004 Has anyone got a guide for adjusting the cables? I've got a pain the butt problem of it not wanting to select 2nd cleanly - every other gear is OK. Second gear selection problems are often caused by the circlip on the end of the gear lever pivot coming off... pull up the plastic cover inside the car, and move your gear lever side to side, if you can see the lever moving side to side on the bar which allows the lever to pivot forwards and backwards, there's your problem... the circlip costs about 12p and will sort your problem for you... (Guess who's got this at the moment too! ;) ) I'll take some pics tonight so you can tell WTF I'm on about! ;) The other part to check if you've developed 2nd and 4th gear selection problems is the bracket on the gearbox where the cables attach to... if this comes loose, you'll loose both of these gears, but R, 1, 3 and 5 will still be pretty much OK... (don't ask, I've just had a few gear selection problems recently! :roll: :lol: ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
