Rado87 10 Posted June 27, 2016 Hopefully going to attempt to replace the rear axle bushes at the weekend on my vr6. Never done this before and just wondering if I need to remove the whole axle to do them? I'm also going to be renewing the copper brake lines, wheel bearings discs and calipers!! I'm thinking maybe I should change the bias valve but have heard it's a bit of sod to remove?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted June 27, 2016 Personally if I was doing all the stuff you are doing you might as well drop the whole thing off and take it out from under the car. Get a new bias valve now and hack through the old one if it doesn't come off easy at first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daveproyoyoyo 10 Posted June 27, 2016 Having just been doing exactly this stuff too I'm with KipVR. There are a pair of bolts going straight through it that were jammed tight on mine and had to cut them out. Might also be worth replacing the spring that sits in there and all nuts and bolts too. My spring was massively corroded, they are still available at VW too. Cheapest place I found the bias valve was in the link below. It doesn't come with the 2 bolts though, you'll need to talk to VW. Best of luck. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221088124536 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado87 10 Posted June 28, 2016 Cheers guys. That's the same bias valve I'm looking at getting. I've ordered a fair bit with him off eBay. I'll give VW a ring later and ask about the spring and bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted June 28, 2016 You'll need a press or to make something to get the OEM bushes in and out. There's a special VW tool for it. Poly bushes will go in no problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado87 10 Posted June 28, 2016 Im starting to think I should of invested in poly bushes to be honest! Luckily my mates workshop has a press so hopefully all will be ok. Plus, with use of his ramp, it should make the whole job a lot easier. I'm dreading this brake bias valve though, I,ll keep you posted.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted June 28, 2016 I just had mine done with OEM rubber. I would not really recommend poly for the rear axle. It's worth the hassle and expense of fitting the VW ones and they won't need to be done again for a long time. Best of luck with it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado87 10 Posted June 28, 2016 I appreciate the words of comfort! I think I'll be having a few late nights with this! If I can work out how, I'll put some pics up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
massbad69 10 Posted June 28, 2016 Here's all the part numbers for the bias valve fixings http://partscatalog.info/volkswagen/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=vw&number=1542&set=1548&ein=1994&f=76&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=6&grf=008600084&bf=115&hgug=612&ug=12&parent_id=381377 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted June 28, 2016 You can pull the bushes in with thread bar and an assortment of things to get round the fact one side of the bush is curved. I've swapped mine for powerflex and then a few years later fitted oem bushes. I wouldn't use the powerflex ones again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado87 10 Posted June 28, 2016 Thanks for the part numbers, could well prove useful. I spoke to vw today and they could get me the bolts and sleeves but not the spring? Also, why are the poly bushes not recommend for the axle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
massbad69 10 Posted June 28, 2016 I just hit the spring from them a couple of months back ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted June 28, 2016 I think it's a matter of opinion but the general consensus on here seems to be OEM bushes. The other ones seem to cause too much movement in the rear suspension as well as transmitting more vibrations. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wompa 0 Posted June 28, 2016 Poly bushes doesnt like alot of movement... Works well for engine mounts but not bushes that moves in all directions. I have polys in the rear axle... and it wasnt any improvement whats so ever. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 29, 2016 I got the spring a few weeks back. Told someone else the part number too who got one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oli1vw 0 Posted June 29, 2016 Have to say agree with Wompa, not a fan of my new poly bushed rear. more noise, more vibration. Not sure if you are not better off buying an anti-roll bar eibach kit for the struts. the poly bushes won't be replaced, will go back to standard I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted June 29, 2016 Not sure if this will happen to everyone, but this is my experience of the powerflex bushes. When my originals were shot to pieces i went down the powerflex route, mainly as i wanted to do it at home and thought it would be the easiest way (plus i could buy them from the place supplying the coilovers) After a few years i always found the rear end quite stiff, tried quite a few different spring/shocks combos, got rid of the coilovers and ended up going back to original bushes in the end. When i removed the powerflex ones i was shocked to see the amount of rust inside the mounting point, it was nice spotless clean metal when i fitted the powerflex ones, looking at the bushes they have 3 grooves in them and i could only assume this let water in and ended up corroded the axle, i had to scrap that axle and find another. So 100% i would paint inside where the powerflex bush mounts if you do use them. Gone back to originals now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
16VG60 1 Posted June 29, 2016 We always recommend the OEM rubber encapsulated bushes for the torsion beam. They offer much improved function over the poly option and furthermore retain the passive rear wheel steering feature. Agreed the old OEM bushes are troublesome to remove and the new items need the Dealer tooling ideally to allow fitting, but they are worth the effort. We have the Dealer tooling to fit the rear torsion beam bushes, so if you require this being carried out give us a call. We are happy to carry out the whole job or just to extract and fit new bushes, for the more hands on enthusiast. We also recommend while the torsion beam is out, treat it to shot blasting and powder coating to protect it from corrosion in future. With the installation complete, whether by us or yourself, we will then carry out full alignment for you. For any of these services, or so much more we welcome your enquiry. JMR Ltd Corrado Specialists Since 1992 http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wompa 0 Posted June 30, 2016 The tool for this job... is it the same as for a MK4?? There is alot of DIY kits and mostly for MK4 :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted July 1, 2016 The tool for this job... is it the same as for a MK4?? There is alot of DIY kits and mostly for MK4 :( No, unfortunately not... Some dealers will loan out the Corrado kit as it's rarely used. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted July 1, 2016 I borrowed a sealey tool from someone on here, did the job, i think it was just modified slightly. I reckon most bush tools would do it will a little modification/extra bits of metal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado87 10 Posted July 10, 2016 Well, after a week in the workshop I've managed to replace the axle bushes, change the brake pressure regulator, fit new copper brake likes, replace both wishbones, both steering rack gaitor and fit a complete set of discs and pads all round complete with rear calipers and carriers! Biggest ball ache, front wishbone bolt snapping off in subframe!! Closely followed by replacing rear axle bushes. As I was warned, the bolts holding the brake pressure regulator on would not come out so I used a grinder to remove and then drilled the captive nuts out. As soon as I work out how to add pics I will..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
massbad69 10 Posted July 10, 2016 Awesome work mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado87 10 Posted July 10, 2016 Cheers mate. Been a testing time but so close to having her back on the road now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wompa 0 Posted July 10, 2016 How was it to change the bushings? Did you use the correct tool? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites