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Alarm/immobiliser installation

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Went to start the car today and lights came on the dash but it didn't crank or do anything at all. Typical syndrome if the immobiliser has kicked in. Problem though is that even when de-immobilised it doesnt start. The aux cooling pump also stops when the key is moved to start.

 

Some points to note:

the set/unset no longer gives a beep

I can hear the immob clicking when setting/unsetting

On removal of the main multipoint connector from the immobiliser(there are two), the car starts but once deimmobilised from the key fob

The fob does not lock the car with the main multipoint connector removed - but the key locks and does a total closure.

 

Does this mean that the immobiliser is goosed, or the wiring is faulty somewhere?

 

Tried resetting by pressing the two fob keys together etc but this did nothing. Also left the battery off for a few minutes but again no joy.

 

Its a scorpion 1118 system

 

Thanks for any assistance

Edited by fla

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Is it better just to remove it and fit another system? If so how difficult is it and would there be any effect on the insurance?

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Sounds a swine of a job to find and sort out. When did you last change your ignition switch?

We overlook it so easily but it sorted my starting problem out. That switch has a lot you answer for

One day I will tackle removing my old cobra alarm and immobiliser that only has one fob.. but there are a lot of wires

Good luck mate

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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Toad Ai606 everyday. I had one fitted on my mk3 golf and it was brilliant. Others have asked on here the same question and most people go with the Toad.

That's the one I will have fitted to my Corrado when this one annoys me

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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100% recommend toad alarm, fitted them on my last 2 cars and they work brilliant. Nothing flashy just exactly what you need it to do, the Clifford's etc always seem to want to do everything but fail on just working.

 

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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Toad immob arrived last week. Any tips for removal of the old one and installation of this system? Obviously i'll disconnect the battery first then remove the fuse panel before separating the existing system. Soldered joints plus heat shrink ok or should i use the crimped fittings? Actually where the alarm wires are to be joined to an existing wire, what is the neatest way of joining? I really don't like using tape there but it may be the only option unless i remove the pins from the connector block.

And what is a good place to locate the 'brains' - i think its a bit bulkier than the old Scorpion system which was in the dash.

Lastly - how much time should it take? 2-3 hours maybe? Thanks

 

Hasan

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Swifty? How long did it take you to remove the old one and install the new system? Planning to do this over the weekend, but dont want to leave it half finished!

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I'll be honest, I paid someone I knew to do install it as he was a toad certified fitter but it only took him a few hours. If I were you I'd compare the new wiring with old and you might get away with swapping old for new as they are both doing a similar job it should be same connections. The main unit is behind the centre console tucked away neatly, if you remove the glovebox it should give you plenty of room to manoeuvre.

 

I think personally I'd go for duraseal type connections for ease of working behind the dash but soldering would do just fine as well, just make sure soldered joints aren't near any moving parts and you don't set fire to anything whilst soldering. when joining onto existing wires, I'd like to hear others opinions, I have soldered to them before and taped it up neatly but I guess cutting and crimping with a duraseal is probably the correct way to do it.

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Good tip about the location. Its quite a large and slightly heavy unit - well compared to the old unit it is.

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As usual, i've had this sitting in the garage as yet unused. Does anyone have the installation diagram or the wiring schematic please?

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I had a Hornet Maxx1 (cat1) fitted by a chap how covers Herts and Beds. I took out the old stuff too, He was recommended across other forums, he might travel to Middlesex if you were looking for someone to fit. He's done all sorts from re-wiring a burst out wiring harness on a Mustang to installing alarms in fleets of motor homes.

 

https://www.yell.com/biz/dk-car-audio-and-security-henlow-7138083/

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Try here: http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/attachments/ice-security/2286d1126885793-toad-ai606-engineers-manual-%2A%2A%2A-ai606_install-pdf

 

Have you got a wiring diagram for the corrado? if you look on rubjonny's (club gti) downloads/documents page here he's got wiring diagrams for corrado. You'll want G3 or the Corrado titled stuff, I prefer the G3 stuff as it's easier to read.

 

Hope that helps

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Good info Dave and pfnsht.

Dave i've got the toad manual (as per your link) but thanks anyway for that. Its for the earlier immobiliser so some of the wire colours are different. I'm trying to overlay that with the wiring on my existing Scorpion system as it doesn't seem too difficult at all - just a question of matching up what each wire does and where its connected. You 'by any chance have one for the AI606t2?

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Having gone through the wiring list so far there seems to be a difference with only 4 wires -

 

diagram: black/white wire, Toad: white/black stripe wire (diagram show this goes to indicator)

diagram: black/green wire, Toad: green/black stripe wire (diagram show this goes to indicator)

diagram: blue/yellow wire, Toad: yellow/blue stripe wire

diagram: yellow wire, Toad: yellow red stripe

 

Could it be that the first three have the wire colours swopped over now?

 

Also, how do you know which indicator wire goes to left and which to right, or does it not matter?

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Considering they are the same colours just reversed I would say so.

 

It doesn't matter about indicators, it's just to flash the indicators on arm/disarm etc.

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next question! How does the toad connect to the total closure system? Its quite simple on the old Scorpion but i cant see where the toad wiring goes to actuate the total closure function. Apparently one of the issues is getting a pule duration long enough to close everything ie around 5 seconds.

 

Called the installer suggested above but he's busy for the next 2 weeks. Quoted around £180 to install, but with no warranty or guarantee - does that seem right?

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It could be, I got a warranty with mine but he supplied then alarm system as welL...

 

He knows his stuff tho, I’ve not had a single false alarm and he completely removed the original alarm and loom.

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If you can get to Brum there is an Insurance Thatcham approved fitter that did my Ai606 for a £120 nippers , I supplied the immoboliser for that price of course. Really sound bloke and been in business 20 years.

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Thanks Keyo. It's sorn'd at the moment but thanks anyway.

 

Btw just located an apparent solution to tge total closure issue. It needs a separate module which can even be used on systems which don't have an alarm. I'll post a link to.it shortly

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I would probably have to agree with the installer on the no warranty and guarantee as he's installing an alarm you are supplying. Don't Toad supply some warranty with them anyway?

 

I have got full closure including the sunroof on mine without the module, don't know how he did it unfortunately, he might have just increased the time for locking output in a similar way that when you turn the key and hold it in position is closes window and sunroof?

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Just to update here i had the toad installed as i couldn't see myself getting round to doing it. Needed to have a relay installed because the pulse was negative and needed to be positive (or the other way round!)

So it's on to soundproofing the doors repairing the fuel return pipe refitting the centre console, finishing the fan harness...etc...

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I don't blame you, there's a relay in my wiring and I had no idea what it did. Plus once you've got it installed, you then have to mess around setting it up

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