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tony_ack

Painting advice

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I need to paint over some repairs to the lower side of the car - I'm not looking for a factory finish, but something passable.

 

I've had some decent success in the past with aerosols from Paints4U over smaller areas, but I've found they can be a bit hit and miss and prone to splatter and uneven flow.

 

I've got a compressor and am planning to get a paint gun, probably a more traditional one as it won't handle HVLP (8.7cfm)

 

I had a look at this thread (http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?96600-Home-respray-advice), and over the internet but I've still got a few questions

 

It recommends this water-based paint (http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetai...productID=6056), looking at the spec sheet it looks like it is suitable for air-drying and needs approx 200ml thinners for 1000ml of paint.

 

What is recommended for the clear coat? A few times the thread states to avoid 2k (why is this - is it due to drying times/less than optimal spraying conditions?), but they seem to be the most popular options for clear coats?

 

Also, what sort of volume of paint will I need? I need to paint the sills, bottom rear-quarter and rear panel?

 

Thanks!

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I've had some limited success with colour matched rattle cans and clear laquer top coat in the past - this is with the pearl grey metallic on my car. To be honest though, it will never look as good as a professional job, and the key is really in how much preparation is put in, that is the cleaning, sanding, primer and keying and how clean you can keep it. Most of your time should be spent on that versus actual spraying and then it's possible to get small repairs to blend in quite well.

 

Did you get a quote from a paint shop as a comparison for the few bits you need done?

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A few times the thread states to avoid 2k (why is this - is it due to drying times/less than optimal spraying conditions?), but they seem to be the most popular options for clear coats?

 

2k paint is a two part paint and contains a hardener so if you're going down the airgun route you may need to mix it yourself which may be one of the reasons it's not recommended. The other, and it's possibly more likely to be this, is the fumes/spray mist is nasty stuff that you do not want to breathe in. The HSE recommends air-fed breathing apparatus for spray booths.

 

As far as I am aware there are no particular issues with drying and spraying. I have used it in aerosol form (so didn't have to mix) and didn't have any issues, and it left a good finish. It is popular for clear coat because it can be harder wearing than a single part paint. I did the spraying outdoors with a breathing mask (albeit I wasn't aware of the 2k at the time) so that probably lessened the fumes as opposed to being stuck in a spray booth.

 

Biggest issue I had was getting a good blend. The bit I did was on the A-pillar but still got a bit of halo effect at the top. Not really noticeable and far better than before when the paint was peeling, but it is there.

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Thanks for the advice, I've learned over the years that it's all about the prep, environment and patience.

 

I guess dust masks aren't going to cut it with 2k paint...!

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I guess dust masks aren't going to cut it with 2k paint...!

 

Ask the paint supplier, if you’re fit and Healthy, no breathing issues etc and take reasonable care regarding the fumes etc you’ll live. I sprayed 2k 20 plus years ago in a garage at home, all doors open and used a charcoal mask and I’m still here. Everyday would probably have killed me by now.

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If your using 2k, you need a proper filteration mask, not just a dust mask. Your paint supplier should have them in stock.

 

My understanding is the recommended air fed masks are for professionals, or people working with it very regularly.

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I painting a car at this time.I did use cellulose paint at fist but not that good (you have to be 100% spot on. So now have used k2 paint so much more forgiving if you get a run just flattened out

Did have bits in the paint (being painted in a small garage at the side of my house)but flattened out and nice a shiny (not a £3/4000 job but for £200 not bad at all)

It’s all about preparing the body

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