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No spark issue

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Synta silver 10w40 is the dealer recommended, though they don't stock it anymore and instead stock Castrol Edge. A lot of us use 10w50 now as it seems to quieten the engine/valves down a touch. I use Fuchs Titan. For ease and cost, the Castrol semi 10w40 will suffice though and meets all VW Specs for oil, which I don't think the Mobil 1 does

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25 minutes ago, seanl82 said:

Synta silver 10w40 is the dealer recommended, though they don't stock it anymore and instead stock Castrol Edge. A lot of us use 10w50 now as it seems to quieten the engine/valves down a touch. I use Fuchs Titan. For ease and cost, the Castrol semi 10w40 will suffice though and meets all VW Specs for oil, which I don't think the Mobil 1 does

Haha the Germans have some funny words, found a good price at carservicepacks if you guys are looking for any. Thanks for the recommendation.

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Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation?

I pu those in mine, very happy with them 👍

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On 11/29/2020 at 12:39 PM, Aasan said:

Also what oil do you guys run in your vr6? Currently there is Mobil 1 inside the car but not having ran for 2 years and constantly being turned over I suspect it's more petrol than oil.

I would use Mobil 1 again but they no longer make a 10-30/40, after some research on the forums I think Castrol semi synthetic would be good for the engine. 

Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation?

i have always run Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 in my VR6 - i buy it from Opie Oils online

it is expensive but fully synthetic & one of the best out there

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On 3/4/2020 at 8:37 PM, Dox said:

Did you buy the car as a non runner?

 

A faulty crank pos sensor will give no spark or fuel.

Do you have fuel at the rail?

Are the spark plugs wet with fuel after cranking and removing them quickly afterwards

I am currently having issues with car cranking but not firing up.

I have fuel pressure and can hear pump priming on ignition. 

I removed plugs after cranking and plugs are not wet!

Does this point towards crank sensor?

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It's a mk2 golf running abv corrado engine/ loom with mk3 clocks!

No movement from rpm tacho when cranking. 

From reading this thread, I think I need to test coil pack to rule it out.

New to vr6 world so could anyone advise how to go about testing the coil pack please?

Thanks in advance 

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1 hour ago, LA9V VR6 said:

I am currently having issues with car cranking but not firing up.

I have fuel pressure and can hear pump priming on ignition. 

I removed plugs after cranking and plugs are not wet!

Does this point towards crank sensor?

Do you have spark but no fuel (plugs not wet)?

Relay 167/67 is the fuel pump. 109 is the ECU. When you turn on ignition can feel/hear any clicking on those relays?

You can bridge relay 167 location to make the fuel pump run constantly on ignition (or use a relay 100 in its place to achieve). 

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2 minutes ago, _Matt_ said:

Do you have spark but no fuel (plugs not wet)?

Relay 167/67 is the fuel pump. 109 is the ECU. When you turn on ignition can feel/hear any clicking on those relays?

You can bridge relay 167 location to make the fuel pump run constantly on ignition (or use a relay 100 in its place to achieve). 

No spark unfortunately. And plugs are not wet either. 

Relay 109 was missing,  so this has been ordered and should arrive tomorrow. I'll check other relays too.

Reading this thread makes me think I should also check coil pack,  but not sure how to go about this!?

could anyone point be towards how best to check coil pack and rule it out?

Thanks 

 

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Ahh if no 109 then you have no ECU control so that is probably your spark issue.

With regards to testing the coil pull a lead and insert spark and crank - check for spark. However wait until 109 is installed.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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What's the back story, has it ever run? Bought as a non running project?

 

What ECU is fitted, part number? Golf clocks could mean ECU could be OBD1 dizzy, OBD1 coilpack or OBD2 coil pack.

 Dizzy will be Pre immobiliser, OBD1 / 2 with coil pack will be immobilised from the factory - immobiliser intact and need a transponder key coded to match, or ECU de immobilised previously (usually written on the ECUs cover in marker pen - maybe?).

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10 hours ago, _Matt_ said:

Ahh if no 109 then you have no ECU control so that is probably your spark issue.

With regards to testing the coil pull a lead and insert spark and crank - check for spark. However wait until 109 is installed.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

I'm unable to upload a pic for some reason buy I've just checked what relays are plugged into the fusebox, as below. 

1 - nothing

2 - 72

3 -nothing atm, waiting on 109

4 - 18

5 - nothing 

6- nothing 

7 - nothing 

8 - 99

9 - nothing 

10 - 53 upside down

11 - 53

12- 80

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47 minutes ago, Dox said:

What's the back story, has it ever run? Bought as a non running project?

 

What ECU is fitted, part number? Golf clocks could mean ECU could be OBD1 dizzy, OBD1 coilpack or OBD2 coil pack.

 Dizzy will be Pre immobiliser, OBD1 / 2 with coil pack will be immobilised from the factory - immobiliser intact and need a transponder key coded to match, or ECU de immobilised previously (usually written on the ECUs cover in marker pen - maybe?).

 

47 minutes ago, Dox said:

What's the back story, has it ever run? Bought as a non running project?

 

What ECU is fitted, part number? Golf clocks could mean ECU could be OBD1 dizzy, OBD1 coilpack or OBD2 coil pack.

 Dizzy will be Pre immobiliser, OBD1 / 2 with coil pack will be immobilised from the factory - immobiliser intact and need a transponder key coded to match, or ECU de immobilised previously (usually written on the ECUs cover in marker pen - maybe?).

Hi, back story is it was running but was parked up after radiator gave way c2017.

Bought as a non running project. 

ECU part number is:

021 906 258 AG

0 261 203 108/109

As far as I know its obd1, as from what I've read all abv corrado engines are?

It's running a coil pack

Any help to get it up and running would be really appreciated 🙏🏼 

 

 

Edited by LA9V VR6
.

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So more issues uncovered today!!

Relay 109 has arrived and hasn't made a difference 

Ive checked resistance between pin 1 and 2 on cranck sensor. Reading went up and down from 12 - 16 but then held at 0.85

I'm a complete novice went it comes to electrics so please go easy on me!

I've unplugged the ecu and checked for perm live at pin 54 and nothing!

I have 12v with ignition on at pin 38.

Also strange one, with the ecu unplugged, ignition on, the fuel pump buzzes!!!!!!

Really not sure where to go from here!

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8 hours ago, LA9V VR6 said:

 

The engine spins over strongly on the starter?

No RPMs reading on the dash now you have relay 109? 

 

 

 

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Are you getting voltage at the injectors ?

This may help your relay locations:

7342B83C-CE75-4B04-AEA6-C391D494C647.jpeg

 

Edited by James.

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13 minutes ago, James. said:

Are you getting voltage at the injectors ?

This may help your relay locations:

7342B83C-CE75-4B04-AEA6-C391D494C647.jpeg

 

How / where would I check for volts at injectors? 

Any guides on how to check this?

Thanks 👍🏼 

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To the right of the intake manifold is the plug for the injectors. Put a multimeter to the feed end and turn the engine over. You should get a voltage pulse. If you don’t then you know it’s an electrical issue (affecting the pulse) down stream from the injectors.

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9 minutes ago, James. said:

To the right of the intake manifold is the plug for the injectors. Put a multimeter to the feed end and turn the engine over. You should get a voltage pulse. If you don’t then you know it’s an electrical issue (affecting the pulse) down stream from the injectors.

Thanks James.

On closer inspection today its come to light the loom is a complete mess and missing some wires in g1plug that are from engine harness 😫

Any anyone has a 6 pin maf engine loom available,  please pm me!

Thanks again all for you respective inputs.

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