Battery drain

[Keyo 47]

Nevermind battery drain Im having a brain drain ! Now the Corrado is sorted the Mk2 CE2  played up tonight ! Had a few issues with the indicator working intermittently and changed out the relay for a Hella one a couple of weeks back and seemed sorted. So tonight sure I heard some arching behind the dash , Now not working fog light, dash illumination including clocks lights, Rear lights- registration lights - indicators and brake lights are working, The headlight switch has a couple of burn marks on a couple of the cables going into the light switch and one of the cables has what it looks like some aftermarket black tape wrapped around it - swapped out the switches for some old untested ones  in the dash and didn't work  I give in !

Edited July 24, 2020 by Keyo

[Keyo 47]

Fixed it for some reason there was an aftermarket inline fuse with a red 10 fuse and that had blown- think the inline fuse is some safety device to stop the light switch setting on fire. 

[seanl82 23]

1 hour ago, Keyo said:

Fixed it for some reason there was an aftermarket inline fuse with a red 10 fuse and that had blown- think the inline fuse is some safety device to stop the light switch setting on fire. 

Yep, the OE switches are known to get very hot and break down, and it has been known to cause fires in the past. The inline fuse helps guard against that, and I fitted one too. I'd replace the fuse as it may have blown for a reason, rather than bypassing it. If it goes again, it could be an indication that your switch has had it so keep an eye out.

[Keyo 47]

2 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Yep, the OE switches are known to get very hot and break down, and it has been known to cause fires in the past. The inline fuse helps guard against that, and I fitted one too. I'd replace the fuse as it may have blown for a reason, rather than bypassing it. If it goes again, it could be an indication that your switch has had it so keep an eye out.

Thanks mate have ordered a new light switch and replaced the fuse- switch is a febi one as the one oe is obsolete- looked on classics and they are selling the febi one described as aftermarket- its cool all the switches are available for the Mk2 at under £10.00 a chuck . 

[fla 9]

On 7/20/2020 at 3:40 PM, dragon green said:

I put a multimeter on my battery,and then started taking out fuses till the drop disappeared, mine was on the central locking circuit,
And this was the culprit, (passenger door)


I’m sure Easypops had the same problem, as I remember reading a thread he did about it, so it gave me a good idea where to look

Dragon how did you finally track it down to the actuator? 

Ive got a drain that im convinced is linked to the Toad alarm.

I've got a HU display which also displays voltage.  It was showing 12.3v when the battery was being charged (it had already gone flat, c.8 5V), car closed but alarm not set. Set the alarm and immediately went down from 12.3 to 8.9 and then came up slightly to 9.1 after the 30 second delay on the pneumatic actuator in the boot. So my guess is something in the alarm circuit. The passenger window is not opening or closing although the module clicks when you press the up or down button. So might be that too?

Hasan

Edited May 30, 2021 by fla

[dragon green 4]

With the multimeter still connected, I unplugged the door actuator, and the drain stopped !
There’s a thread on here by easypop, he had the exact same problem as me, so I followed what he did

[Keyo 47]

Ive changed my actuators to - mine still had a drain but still glad I changed them - I took out the Alpine stereo and seemed to cure it.   

[fla 9]

whats the best way to remove the actuators?  I've removed the two screws at the front, the connector is a bit of a pain but how is that operating rod removed?  Do you remove it from the lock mechanism or from the actuator?  

Thanks

 

Hasan

[seanl82 23]

16 hours ago, fla said:

whats the best way to remove the actuators?  I've removed the two screws at the front, the connector is a bit of a pain but how is that operating rod removed?  Do you remove it from the lock mechanism or from the actuator?  

Thanks

 

Hasan

The the rod is attached by a hook on the locking mechanism, so if you remove that it should give you enough movement to unhook it with the actuator screws out.

[Keyo 47]

You can take the rod  out as well of actuator - has a Micky  mouse. Twist. Lock but very fragile . 

[fla 9]

thanks very much for that Sean & Keyo