changing brakepads

[chrishill 0]

I know mine need doing ASAP as the front driver side one is making some nasty noises, being a novice and not having felt confident in doing any sort of mechanical stuff to previous cars, is changing them easy? I'm a bit wary, I mean, brakes are fairly important things and if i mess it up I could do myself an injury! anyone give me a basic guide? or should i leave it to the 'pros' at kwikfit or somewhere simular?

[Henny 0]

"pros"?

"kwikfit"?

 

HAHAHAHAhahahahaHAHAhahaHAHAhaha........

*breathes*

*picks self off floor*

 

Get hold of a MKII golf Haynes manual and follow the instructions in there... They're identical to yours and are pretty easy to do... just make sure you've got a decent set of sockets and spanners and you should be fine... 8)

[dinkus 10]

The semi-complete (hmm I really should finish it) how-to guide on replacing your top mounts also includes the front brakes, so might be of use to you. It's on a VR rather than a valver, but I don't think there's that much of a difference?

[Henny 0]

Yup dinkus, different sizes, but essentially the same process... 8) Good call... :)

[dinkus 10]

Yup dinkus, different sizes, but essentially the same process... 8) Good call... :)

 

Good stuff, I'm just happy the how-to guides are going to be of use to people :)

 

I have another couple that people have sent me that need putting up too.

[dr_mat 0]

Ah yes, was going to attempt the front pads+disks myself soon also, this thread is useful.. :)

Now I just need to get ... all the tools!!

Any other pointers for putting new disks on too?

I don't like the concept of "hitting very hard with hammer", given that's my wheel bearings in there....

[chrishill 0]

"pros"?

"kwikfit"?

 

hehe, sarcasam doesnt come over too well when you're typing does it :wink: I just couldnt think of any other places that would do it off the top of my head! cheers for the link to that howto dinkus! I'll have a butchers and see if i can cope :S its pi**ing it down today so i'm getting a bit concerned about having working stoppers, might have to bite the bullet and pay to get it done before I have a prang :(

[dinkus 10]

The most important thing you need is a can of PlusGas, I really can't recommend it enough. Douse every nut and bolt that you plan on removing with the stuff the night before you want to start work.

 

dr_mat, your bearings should be fine as long as you don't wail on the disc too hard. It's nothing compared to the abuse they take when you're blatting down a back road ;) It's also the only way they'll come off...

 

Putting new disks on is pretty easy, it's the removal that's hard, especially if the bastid retainer screw needs drilling out (apparently it's highly likely to be stuck). I'd be inclined to slap copper slip over most things to make sure they don't corrode together again.

 

Lastly, take it easy after you change the pads, especially if you're using the Pagid FR ones because they take a fair bit of bedding in and you don't get a lot of braking power until they have.

[jedi-knight83 0]

just make sure you have a big enough g clamp to fit around the caliper to push the piston back in...also when your pushing the piston back in make sure the brake fluid doesnt overflow in the engine bay..

 

its easy..couple of hours max even for a complete novice!

[dinkus 10]

just make sure you have a big enough g clamp to fit around the caliper to push the piston back in...also when your pushing the piston back in make sure the brake fluid doesnt overflow in the engine bay..

 

its easy..couple of hours max even for a complete novice!

 

Oh yes, good point. A proper caliper winder from Halfords (about £15 I think) will save you a lot of hassle when putting the new pads in.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The caliper carriers can be stubborn to remove and coating all the bolts with copper grease is a must.

 

I always replace or regrease the disc retainer screw everytime the front wheels come off. They only need to be nipped up, too many people impact driver them on, there's no need. They merely hold the disc in place whilst assembling the brakes and to aid wheel bolt alignment.

 

When the calipers are off, inspect the piston seals and also strip, clean and regrease the sliding pins.

[dinkus 10]

When the calipers are off, inspect the piston seals and also strip, clean and regrease the sliding pins.

 

I didn't :( Ho hum...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You don't have to do that but I thought I would for good measure!

 

You can tell if you've got sticky caliper because the pads will wear at different rates.....

[dr_mat 0]

Right, so I gotta go buy a set of spanners, tin of plus gas, tin of copper grease (what grease should I use for the spoiler, btw?), and a caliper press to rewind the calipers, and then perhaps I can think about doing it myself..! :)

Pity the local halfords only seems to sell wing mirror glasses, alloy wheels and ICE.. :roll:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I wouldn't use grease on the rear spoiler tubes. Try some car wax (not polish) instead.

 

It's just that grease on the back plus dirt flicked up by the car's drag = cutting paste!

 

I've never stripped a spoiler mech but it seems VW made the spoiler supports from plastic to reduce abrasion related wear.

[Skimask 0]

just make sure you have a big enough g clamp to fit around the caliper to push the piston back in...also when your pushing the piston back in make sure the brake fluid doesnt overflow in the engine bay..

 

 

Instead of g-clamping the calipers back in and overflowing the Brake master cylinder, I always put the caliper back onto the carrier, and then levering the piston back. You must open the bleed nipple, the (piston will slide back easily) at the same time, and as the piston nears full retraction, close the bleed nipple. There are various reasons for this method, the piston slides back really easy, and as the fluid is coming out ot the nipple it won't overflow into the engine bay! More importantly, the fluid behind the piston is usually shot with heat and dust. You are effectively displacing the old fluid with fresher stuff. Don't forget to top up the master cylinder!! The only drawback is that the bleed nipple may snap off - a common fault with corrados. Be aware you may need to buy new calipers.

[Supercharged 2]

As a reminder for people with ABS - Ignition needs to be on to bleed the brakes

[Roger Blassberg 0]

The piston winder is for the rear calipers - I don't believe that the pistons in the front have the recess for the winder and in any case they just slide straight back in. Take the opportunity carefully to wipe any dirt off the side of the piston before it is pushed back through the dust seal. Fit the caliper back to the carrier without the inner pad in place and lever it against the disc gently but firmly using something made of wood or hard plastic. Then, undo it again and fit the new pads.

 

Make sure that the fluid level is not above the MAX mark once the job is finished, otherwise you will loose the red light warning when the pads wear down next time causing the float to drop below the pre-set level.

 

Finally, re-set the pads by pumping the pedal a few times before you drive away; my sister crashed into a lamp post when she drove away immediately after her (ex !!)-husband had not done so. :shock:

 

Use white grease for the rear spoiler, apparently available from Halfords.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[jedi-knight83 0]

Instead of g-clamping the calipers back in and overflowing the Brake master cylinder, I always put the caliper back onto the carrier, and then levering the piston back

 

i wouldnt do that to be honest. you risk damaging the piston and its a bit of a 'jack of all trades' way of doing it to be honest!

 

use a big g clamp and use the old pad in the caliper to distribute the weight, again...to avoid damaging the piston.

 

not sure about the bleed nipple but it sounds like it may work...although if it snaps your stuffed! I just used a big shringe to suck the excess fluid out of the resevoir before pressing the pistons back in...then toped up with what was in the shringe and binned the rest.

[dr_mat 0]

Too much to remember, jeez...

Must buy a printer! :)

[jedi-knight83 0]

or a laptop and a loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong network cable and then you can even update the forum as you work

[chrishill 0]

ok, i took it to a little place round the corner and explained the problem and the sort of noise its making (metal on metal grindy sound) and the guy said it sounds like i'll need disc's too. does that sound right or am i about to get ripped off?

[dr_mat 0]

Probably true - you'll be able to tell, you'll see grooves being cut into the discs if it's worn down far enough that you can hear grinding..

 

Oh, and it'd need to be a VERY long network cable, Jedi, cos I rarely manage to park in the same *street*, let alone outside my *house*!! :roll:

[chrishill 0]

bumcakes! he said they use 'powertech' or something simular for pads and disc's, looks like I've got a big bill coming my way very shortly :(

[jedi-knight83 0]

ok, i took it to a little place round the corner and explained the problem and the sort of noise its making (metal on metal grindy sound) and the guy said it sounds like i'll need disc's too. does that sound right or am i about to get ripped off?

 

just pop the wheels off and have a look yourself...make sure you check both sides of the disc.

 

Oh, and it'd need to be a VERY long network cable, Jedi, cos I rarely manage to park in the same *street*, let alone outside my *house*!!

 

wireless lan dr_mat ? :lol: