Kevin Bacon

Retrofitting Bose kit from an OEM install wouldn't work that well anyway tbh. That stuff is acoustically tuned to sound good in a particular interior. It would probably sound pretty average in a Corrado!

Yeah shouldn't have tried to fix what wasn't broken :D

And having gone from Schimmel back to stock, I regretted it immediately. Just felt flatter everywhere in the rev range, especially pulling away from rest.

I've never replaced the small o-ring on the allen key drain plug on the filter housing in all the years of changing the oil.

Me neither, or the main either tbh. My oil changes were so frequent, the seals never had time to deteriorate!

I don't think soaking the tappets was the cause tbh. They're filled with pressurised oil when the engine runs, so not something that would happen when sat in a tub of oil.

It's certainly and odd one for sure, and even odder that it happened twice!

Ah OK, ignore me then. Having said that, 24V owners rarely use that O ring, they just leave it on there. Maybe a whole load of them could be collected up via the R32 forum and sent out to your 12V lot!

No me neither. I thought pre-soaking in oil was a legacy of leather oil seals from 50s Jaguars?

I've never seen a cam snap on a VR before! I'm surprised there's enough pull down strength from a couple of 10mm bolts in ally threads to snap a cam like that! I would have put money on the threads stripping first, but stranger things have happened! As Dox said, the cam must have had excessive bending going on.

Strange! Hope you get it sorted.

Ah, maybe I'm thinking of the R32 filter. Haven't seen a 12V one in a long while!! I'm sure they were the same as the 12Vs, can't remember!

That O ring is supplied with the new filter. It's on the stick end of the filter. You just remove it and plonk it on the drain plug.

Knackered lambda I reckon. Personally I would replace that section of the loom as well as the sensor. ~ 2500rpm is where you tend to notice it's lack of operation the most on the emissions machine and generally a flat spot on the road at that rpm too.

Looks like a rear caliper for sure on the shopping list, and also a brake proportioning valve if you can't free it off with lube and a hammer. You can probably remove the seized bleed nipples with a set of these - http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors They do make your life a lot easier when it comes to bleeding.

As for brake lines, I redid mine with OEM steel brake line and fittings from the dealer and a decent flaring tool. It's not too bad a job at all and not expensive either. I don't like copper or kunifer pipes, although they are easier to manipulate into shape than steel.

That is indeed how it works Jim, but the ECU is calibrated to the size of the injectors. It's not intelligent enough to know you've swapped your 280cc ones for 440cc ones. So if it commands the injector to open for 30ms at idle, that's fine with the stock injector, but 30ms on-time for a 440 is loads of extra fuel, which the lambda has to then remove again, but it can only adjust by 15% max. The difference in flow between 280 & 440 is way more than 15%, even with a 3 bar FPR.

Your engine will over fuel like mad using those. The lambda can't take THAT much extra fuelling out I'm afraid. They are utterly sh1t injectors anyway and always have been. They cause tuners like Stealth massive headaches when tuning them in turbo applications.

Aren't there any standard ones on ebay, or take easypop's offer?

Very nice! Lovely colour too.

/\ it certainly does. Quite enjoyed the challenge of getting everything running in an OEM fashion though. I personally don't think the R32 engine is well suited to the Corrado, but it was a fun project. 12V turbo + corrado are like Gin + tonic though.

I would get some of that exhaust repair foil tape (I think Holts make it. Halfords) to build up the diameter a bit.

You'll be buying another next Kev!!

Hell no! My bank account can't handle a battering of that magnitude again!

Funny how life changes eh? 9 years I had that thing, with regular posts of the latest mods (some of which pointless, but killed time) I'd done. And now, I just drive a Golf to and from work, and that's it. Can't even be bothered to service it. Maybe I need that Corrado love / hateness in my life again?

Yeah behind the flap area in the rear arch is a notorious dirt trap. When I tackled mine I noticed a distinct lack of under body sealant around that area. Provided the metal hasn't perforated, you should be able to cut it back to bare metal, treat, prime, paint then seal up with some under body gunk like 'Grey Stripe'.

Kinell, the boys are back in town....

The Wavetrac is different because it's not completely 'open' like the Quaife is when one wheel loses grip. I'd go for the Wavetrac personally!

And as for the yanks whinging about rigged emissions tests, they do this to the environment for entertainment.

Not a surprise in the slightest. Big businesses deceiving the public, who'd have thought it?

Well hopefully this debacle will help expedite the demise of feckin diesel, full stop. Miss-sold to the public as clean, particulate filters, crazy pump prices (until recently), DMFs, ridiculous bills for failed swirl flaps and injectors, higher list price than petrol equiv etc etc..... what a catastrophic waste of money a diesel powered car is, in every respect. There isn't even a performance advantage anymore. Petrol turbos now clobber TDIs for midrange grunt and aren't that far off the mpgs either, for comparative performance.

Meh. VW will just get a corporate wrist slapping and move on from it. Winterkorn should have been made to stay and sort it out, rather than shiftily sneaking out the back door with a big pay off and letting someone else sort the cr@p out.

+1 on the 3.68 final drive. Add a turbo to it and it's brutal. You can really feel the difference, between a standard geared VRT and a 3.68'd VRT.

Wouldn't worry about a 3.0 bore personally. You need 83.5mm pistons to get close enough to a true 3.0 but the gains are negligible, and the cylinder walls become a bit on the thin side. Better to play with longer stroke cranks, from the R32 maybe, but you'd need custom pistons to push the crowns below the deck again. Expensive!

I think the most I've heard about a n'asp VR6 making was around 250hp, and that was with an ABT crank to push the capacity out to 3.2, big valve head, cams etc etc. It would be way cheaper to drop an R32 in, but a 3.2 12V would have way more under bonnet kudos.

The idle valve could be stuck open mechanically. That would also explain the 1300rpm idle and nothing happening when disconnecting it, although if it was stuck fully open, it would idle at more like 2000rpm!

Remove the ISV, make up a little wiring loom for it to connect directly to the battery. If you pulse the positive lead on and off, you should see the flap inside the ISV move and the whole thing will shake in your hand. If nothing happens, it's fooked! And they are, erm, about £250 from VW!!

Sounds like the throttle stop might have been adjusted. You need to plug in VAG-COM really and see what the throttle position is at idle is. Should be around 14 degrees.

Who machined the block for you? Kev Bacon has mentioned they need to be honed in a certain way to prevent oil usage.

Yeah I found using one of them flex-hone things seemed to increase oil consumption. The factory uses plateau honing (taking off the rough edges) so is already pre-run in of sorts, but any decent machine shop should be able to use the correct honing angles VW use and all should be golden.