Kevin Bacon

The boost levels should 7psi low and 10.5psi High. Have you got a boost guage? Might want to get one to keep an eye on the levels. I wasn't aware Turbo Technics did the conversion on a Corrado but I had a TT 16V MK2 Golf, which was mega fun. Mine developed 210bhp with 205/lb/ft torque, but I did have K star running 4 extra VR6 injectors (3 boost maps) and Water/methanol injection :lol: which you certainly don't get on the TT supplied conversion! You don't need to uprate the pistons for that level of boost, you just offset bush the small end bearings. The 1800 block is well up to the job of handling up to 11psi. Any more and you'll need forged or Audi S2 pistons, raceware fasteners etc etc to keep it reliable. Mpgs, I got mid 30s out of mine when driven sedately and about 12mpg when driving hard on high boost. With the K jet injectors and the VR6 ones both fully open, you're pumping a gallon of fuel into the engine every 10 seconds, hence 12mpg! With this setup, the engine is creamy smooth, nearly as smooth as my VR6...and a lot quicker too. Top conversion mate, look after it. Kev 94 VR6

Cheers for the tip Chris, I'll check the ol plugs when it stops bloody raining!! Kev

Cheers for the offer Scott mate but Vince told me how to check it over the weekend. Basically, you prod a multimeter probe into the far right lead of the black plug (signal) and the other probe to ground. With engine hot and idling the voltage should fluctaute between 0 and 1 volt, if you have no signal or a steady voltage then the lamda is dead. Mine does as the man says, so back to the drawing board! The car just feels down on power and gets coarser and louder the more you push it. Dunno what's up with it. How did you aquire your VAG-COm out of interest? From Ross-tech? I ordered it and got to the payment stage and was put off by the having to fax my credit card number across bit. They need some E-commerce technology me thinks! Cheers Kev 94 VR6

Removing the cat won't make much difference, certainly not enough to throw you back in the seat! Modern engines are designed and tuned with a cat in mind, so are expecting to see some back pressure. Remove the cat and the engine may even run worse (if everything else is standard). I've seen a car lose 4 bhp over a standard system, just don't believe the hype. Feeding the engine with cold air is the first step and the easiest/cheapest to do. Then you can chip it. stick it on the dyno and look at how the power tails off at the top end, a better exhaust on a modded engine can sometimes help in the upper rev range. Kev 94 VR6

I know you said the timing is correct but did you disturb the cam timing during the gasket change? I hope you fitted a 2.0 16V (Engine code ABF) steel head gasket?? My Turbo technics 16V (Golf) lunched it's gasket between 3 & 4 (maybe this is common?) and I stuck the steel fella on and never had any repeats. All connectors back where they should be? No accidentally severed wires or anything daft like that? If it's getting even a small amount of fuel, it should still splutter at least? If it's getting the basic ingredients and not firing, I'd re-check all the timing and try again. Other than that, lord only knows! Gotta be something silly if it worked fine before the gasket blow. Kev 94 VR6

VW don't make prefabricated membranes any more, instead you get this huge sheet of water proof grey foam that you have to cut to size and bond to the door. It's actually quite good if you've got the patience. Kev 94 VR6

Does anyone know much about the VR6 O2 Sensor? I think mine is dead but I haven't got VAG-COM to check, so I was hoping someone might know the restitance values when healthy as I do have a multimeter. The only thing that confuses me is there is a black 4 pin connector on the rear engine mount and also a white 3 pin connector, which one is the lambda connector? Cheers Kev 94 VR6

Yes silly me you're right, doh! I had my door apart recently so should have known that really :? Ignore me, it was late! Kev

Have a look at this then http://www.eiptuning.com/eip03webfolder ... turbo.html 680+hp! Kev

Leave the exhaust in place and push it back out of the way attached to the front pipes. The head will lift up and then forward, so you've no need to seperate the front pipes from the manifold. The needs to be lifted about 5mm to clear the locating pins in the block. You may need some assistance here as the head can stick down good and hard but DO NOT hit it with a hammer or lever a screwdriver between the block and head!! Oh and the head is heavy when leaning under the bonnet, back ache time! I would have got the head gasket from the dealer personally as they are superior to pattern ones. All other gaskets are OK as patterns though. Kev 94 VR6

Late Cs don't have vacuum pipes in the doors as the handles are electronic. Could be the handle or the pump. I reckon it is the pump though and my advice to you is to fit one from an Audi 80/100 as they're more robust and quieter, oh and quicker too. You turn the lock and the door pins drop like bricks, silently! Kev 94 VR6

Juddering in the lower gears is synonymous with a knackered clutch, but it could also be due to a badly running engine. Does the engine feel hesitant below 2000 rpm with a flat-spot? Could be your lambda probe, you'll need a 3 wire universal one from German & Swedish, they're only about £30. May also be your coil pack but they generally give problems across the whole rev range. How many miles has the car done? Could just be at the age where it's starting to need stuff replacing. The stalling can be due to a worn throttle 'catcher'. Look behind the throttle body and you'll see a diaphragm with a rubber boot on it. As the throttle returns to rest, this little diaphragm 'catches' the throttle linkage and lowers it to rest gently. When these diaphragms wear out, they allow the throttle to drop too quickly and the idle valve is then unable to 'catch' and stabilise the idle. Failing that, it could just be a knackered idle valve but many people find replacing it doesn't solve the problem. VR6s just die like that for some reason and it's hard to cure. Mine does it regularly so I try and keep my foot on the gas when pulling up to junctions. There must be a cure but I'll be damned if I know what it is!! Kev 94 VR6

You'll know when a VR has blown it's head gasket because it'll throw coolant out of the expansion tank, some people have even had expansion tanks split because the pressure was so high! Smell the coolant, if it stinks of exhaust fumes, your gasket has gone. You'd also get water on your rear screen (on a dry day) as the gasket spits coolant into the combustion chamber/s. Naturally the engine would consume lots of coolant over a short period too. Kev 94 VR6

Thanks G60 :lol: It's taken me years to finally understand the relationship between power and torque! Speaking of diesel torque, I had to laugh when I saw one of our motoring programs testing a VW Toureg (pronounced Twareg) by towing a combine harvester, some logs and even a Van backwards which was flat out in 1st gear! Not many things are going to stand in the way of 555lb/ft torque! Kev 94 VR6

Been down that route already :cry: I'm running out of ideas!! Kev

Torque....mmmm, but power is equally important. In an ideal world you'd have 45 degree power plot that's dead smooth and torque and power being the same values across the range. Things never work out like that though :x Think of the length of your arm being the torque and the strength of your bicep being the power. That's about the simplest analogy I can think of. Hondas have big biceps but small arms :lol: So in other words your arm is providing the leverage (torque/twisting force) and the bicep is providing the work rate. SO....if you've got a long arm but small biceps, the torque band will be small for a short time. Or if you've got big biceps and short arms, you can keep going for longer but have a smaller twisting force. The reason the Wankel has little torque is because the effective stroke is shorter than a piston engine's, but you get 3 power cycles per revolution, which is why it produces more power! It's a curious relationship between torque and power!! Kev 94 VR6

Alfa Romeo GTA V6 I suppose, but it has more power. Roughly the same times on paper though. It's pretty in an italian kind of way but also poorly made in an italian kind of way! Kev 94 VR6

The 1.8T engine was under development when the Corrado bit the bullet. Interesting really as VW are dumping the turbo engine in favour of 2.0 FSI engines and the big 6. Out of interest, do you still have to let the turbo slow down before switching the engine off these days? Kev

I think I've seen one or two imported RX-7s over here. Rotary engines are a nightmare to produce and maintain, hence their rarity! They give a lot of power compared to reciprocating engines, but as G60 quite rightly pointed out, they give naff all torque. I had to study the Wankel engine as part of a college project and it is a complex little beast. The seals (piston ring equivalent) are the difficult part to get right and they wear them out quickly. Only Mazda seem to have perfected it. Their main advantage is their size and weight savings over piston engines. An 1800 double rotary has the same power output as a 2500cc piston engine, and that's BEFORE turbos! Kev

I've seen a few twin turbo VR6 engines (2 x Garrett T25s) but VW certainly never made one! Kev 94 VR6

Has anyone here got a VR6 that actually idles smoothly? Mine is lumpy as hell and starting to get on my nerves! I've sprayed carb cleaner round all the induction parts (with the engine running), cleaned out the ISV, de-emulsified the throttle valve etc and it just won't idle smoothly. There aren't any induction leaks as the carb cleaner trick would have picked them out like a sore thumb. Also, when holding the revs at 1500rpm, there is a horrible shuddering through the car. It might be the VT front mount but it's only started doing it recently. And lastly, there is an odd chaffing noise coming from the bellhousing. I thought it was a dry fan belt at first as there is also a hot rubber smell accompanying it. It's not the belt as I sprayed some silicon maintanence spray on the belt and the noise is still there. It's not the tension pulley either as I checked that. I put a stethoscope on the bell housing and it's not the chains either!! Bloody Corrados, I hate them sometimes. Any ideas? Cheers kev

Anyone attempted this job on a VR6? A couple of mine are noisy and I was thinking of changing them out myself instead of driving to Stealth. Any tips? Cheers kev 94 VR6

What things have you heard as I haven't heard of any major probs with turboing a VR6? It's not a popular route in the UK due to the expense and only a handful of tuners will source and fit the parts for us. Supercharing by comparison is a lot easier as you don't have to alter the internals, providing you don't exceed the charger's standard boost. Is the RX-7 the rotary engined beast? Kev 94 VR6

As far as I know, it's illegal to have a white plate at the back. It certainly was a few years ago when I had a white rear plate, cause I got pulled over and bollocked for it! Maybe those white EU plates with the yellow strip on the right hand side are legal though? Doesn't really say on the website. Kev 94 VR6

Exactly my point Stormseeker! The oldest trick in the book is to badge up a dying model as something special. The rest of the world would no doubt have seen through it. The UK is a sucker for limited editions and some are applied at the dealer! As nice as the Storm is, it's not anything significant over a normal VR6 and apart from the Storm badges, the other items could have been specified as options. The Solitudes are off the Golf Highline, so not unique to the Corrado and limiting the paint choices to two is cheaper and easier in terms of production. I dunno, maybe I'm just too cynical but it's only money to VW and they will use their best tactics to get it. They just know (from history) that the UK is an easy market to exploit. Kev 94 VR6