buttles

Yup, off this week so let me know when is good. Evenings best.

On my 94 Vr the pin on the ECU for rpm signal is No 22 Green and Black. Vince and I used the Black switched live on the ignition switch for power.

Finding the Wheel speed wires on the ABS plug is even easier than that. They are numbered on the plug. 45 Offside Rear,46 Nearside Rear,47 Offside Front,48 Nearside Front. These then have to be assigned a channel number,1 to 4.The white plugs form the Control box bypass if the unit fails. You just connect the two 'Car side' ones together to get your car running again. If you elect to not have this then your car is immobile untill you replace the box. They are in the Injector loom, nothing to do with the ABS wireing.That is the easiest wireing bit to bugger up. Correct male and female pins in the right socket to match up. So the car side will have one male plug and one female plug so they can be connected if need be. All this at the same time keeping the correct injector wire colour in sequence. I have a hand made colour chart to help. Neil

Kev, the ABS is actually the easyest bit!! When you take the plug apart all the required wires are neatly in a row. DONT cut them!! If you get the connections wrong, dont panic. You can change the wheel corners in the software and check by spinning each wheel to check the LED. Make sure you connect to the signal wire not the sheilding one. Someone near Southam will attest to that :wink: If the kit didn't have the control box bypass plugs it would be a whole lot easier but do wire it in.

Unless you can fabric a screen for the filter. It's high enough to avoid puddles, it's just the spray that will be your problem.

'spose it all depends how much he is charging to fit it compared to how good a sparky you are? As I said in the group buy thread or somewhere if you get the injector splice wrong it will be fun sorting! :help: Just be methodical and it's not difficult.

Installed mine myself. It's all down to the preparation of the looms and connectors. An hour or so in the kitchen with a soldering iron and then an hour or two kneeling in front of the engine. Vince spliced his into the loom just back from the ecu plug, I did mine just under the fan control module. The control box isn't waterproof so you need to bring the whole lot into the car. Did you all order the long injector wires loom? You need it to have enough length to reach inside the car from the injector splice. PM me if you would like a chat. Or have a look. Neil

The Air filter will get a good soaking on a wet road let alone a puddle without arch liners. There is not enough room under the Cannister hole to put a filter protector on so the filter is open to the elements. I never had a problem with the position of the filter with the liners in place. If you do go down the VF route give me a call, got one sitting on the shelf! Neil

Sunday pm onwards is good. For a few days at least!!

I'm near Redhill just off the A23. Around this week up to Thursday lunchtime. PM me if you want to pop by. Day or eve. 95 VR will be OBD2 socket but pull up gear stick gaitor and you will see a multi plug at the front. Three rows of pin holes (not all used). OBD 1 just has 4 pin holes. I only have the lead for OBD 2. Neil

I am going to be at Gatwick VW on Monday (today) at 11.00ish. I can Vag-com it for you if thats any good for you. (Assuming you have an OBD2 port on a 95 VR) Won't show up a coilpack but might throw up somthing? And look at your ABS as well. Neil

I have suggested to Vince that he puts the T/C in his 'Things to seriously concider' in his Turbo Stage 1 posting. Just been out in the first bit of damp with the 'New VRT' with T/C on and off, and christ it needs it. Anyone looking to keep their VR for a while should get the Stage 1 done. A whole new car for tuppence :D (Concidering what you get) Off for more grins. Neil

Batmanan, the red wire is the common live, the red/white is Stage 1 and the red/black is stage 2. The guide on Fans check on page one is indeed slightly incorrect for ABV stuff.

Search for: For those with hot start problems

That's the whole problem. There isn't a relay. The signal to energise the starter motor goes through the ignition switch then to the solenoid (Technically a relay of sorts) It's this voltage that sometimes isn't enough to throw the solenoid. There is a mod to install a relay to put direct battery voltage into the starter solenoid. (Much like the Headlight loom mod. No load goes through the ignition switch) If I have a minute I will try and find the link. Most people try and get away with lubing the sliding part of the solenoid to get by. Or a new starter!

This sounds more like the starter motor not energising problem if it wont turn over. I did the relay mod and not done it since.

Jez, I will pm you my phone number for a chat about the VF charger. Not a sales pitch, just living with as a dailey. Neil

Those pipes are going to make my old lump look ropey!! Taking it in tomorrow. Couple more weeks to wait :( :D

The Racelogic website has a downloadable manual so you can see if it's for you to DIY.

Actually not sure the box I have has logging. Never looked into it! Seem to remember Mike (David) saying to check that the tyre sizes are entered correctly and that the system sees all four wheel speeds the same. So that should be live monitoring not logging. Not bothered myself with the latter and system works fine. Might seem obvious but the ABS needs to be energised for the RL to work. Managed to trip my ABS off during testing and was scratching my head for a bit.

Doh! Yup, that'l be him. Another minor point is the laptop interface is RS232. My 'modern' laptop only has USB com ports. A cheapy adaptor off eBay did the trick for setting up the software. Vince recons the adaptor won't be quick enough for live logging. Not felt the need!! Neil

Talk to David Broadbent at Racelogic. Very helpful chap. Again make sure you get the long injector cut wires. I have a copy of the loom colour codes. Save a lot of legwork!! Neil

A wireing diagram is a must. The 'which ABS wire goes where' is a bit vague. If you get it wrong its easily changeable in the software. The injectors have to be done correctly. I have a copy of the colour codes for the injectors and the new loom. Have to say here that I don't want to tread on Vinces toes! This is not a 'give it a go' job. Can go horribly wrong if you don't take care.

The Race logic is pretty straight forward stuff if you are nifty with a soldering iron. Solder all joins including pins. If you order it direct from the company make sure you say it's for a Corrado. You need the long leads to go from the engine bay (Injectors) back into the car. The control box isn't weather proof so it needs to be under the glove box somewhere. Preparing loom say, an hour. Fitting whole lot to car, another hour and half. It's all in the preparation. Neil

muppetlab, I am away at the mo but I will put up a spec on Friday. Usual stuff though. VF9 Stage 2 and all the gubbins. Neil