buttles

Clips ordered from the guy in France.......see how we go!!

Thanks for the diagrams. The clips I gather are to secure the scuttle. Which is I think the bit most just glue on?!!0

Luvverly, thanks. Not knowing and no access to the parts diagram I was a tad baffled!! Are there 6 of them? Update...Corrado Graveyard is going to try and get some off without breaking them!! See how we get on!

Thanks both......as you can tell I'm fighting this blind. I'm in East Surrey. I was advised there were some 'top' clips but not too sure now!! These are the clips which Autoglass say they can't source but are needed ...https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/clip-priced-each-no-longer-available/535853832a03c/ Autoglass say they have everything else If anybody can shed some light? Thanks

Thanks Bruno, I'm told the scuttle clips are available, even from VW. These are along the top of the screen I'm told! Trying to get Autoglass to think sideways is not happening.... I'll get in touch with Sprinter, Ta

Hi, has anybody got any of these? 535 853 382A 03C They are the clips at the top of the screen. Not sure how many are fitted?? Everywhere says Obsolete and Autoglass won't accept the job without them. Are they reuseable or do they break on screen removal? Thanks for any advise to get this job done

I tried to do it dash in as was promised it could be done!. Not enough room on mine (late vr6) so bit the bullet and did the dash. It's a doddle to be honest, wish I'd gone straight for that method. You don't need to remove it, just pull it away from the screen a few inches. 3 nuts and the 2 side screws and bracket screw just to left of instrument binnacle.

Finished replacing the Rad and heater matrix which both went after replacing a low opening thermostat. Got away with it for 27 years so can't complain!!

Does it try and cut out whilst driving along with no input from you? How long ago were the ECU and fuel pump relays changed?

+1 for Southern Car Security. Arrived bang on time and didn't get stroppy when he found I hadn't plugged the ECU back in when I was tracing a battery leak earlier. Ooops, sorry Miguel!!

The only thing that can really go kaput with the TB is the position sensor. Assuming it's clean. Again you can use VCDS to see if it shows a smooth increase in degrees open as you put your foot down on the pedal. It won't show 100% when open, that's normal. Try cold and hot, of course with engine not running!! I had a cam position sensor go bad and not show on VCDS. On my third one now since new so they do go bad.

If your still not sure if the ISV is working or not you can check it's motor with VCDS. There's a test mode that runs through all the bits the ECU controls

And while you're in vcds look at the throttle angle with the throttle closed. Should be

If you have vagcom you can watch to see how the ecu is fueling the engine at idle. On tab 3 or 4 is the Lambda output. It should wander up and down through 1 regularly. May explain your bad plugs. In tab 5 I think is the Adaptation for Idle, mid and full throttle. Shouldn't be too far away from 1 (Lambda)

Sorry to sound obvious but you need vagcom to save spending money! If not Lambda then a cam position sensor is my next guess

+1 on that...The sensor is fixed and it's the butterfly you move on it's stop. The ECU takes care of the idle speed. (Especially as you now have the ISV back in) If it's vastly out make sure the damper pot doesn't bottom out before the butterfly hits it's stop. I would try and get it up to something like 12 or 13

The reading in vagcom (VCDS) should say less than 14 with the butterfly at rest. It's a fiddly job to adjust as the locknut changes the reading as you tighten it up but trial and error you will get there! Mine also changes with temperature so don't try and get too close to 14. 13 does me.

''so dashpot fully closed and throttle stop basically hitting at same time, that seems logical?'' That's about it. I would wind the dashpot in another half turn to make sure the throttle stop gets the butterfly.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=41192. Sounds like you need the Relay mod to me!

Hopefully this is a simple one! The switched live feed to the radio has a leak on it. ( I am using this to power my new DAB ariel) When all off/key out there is 0.64v which is flattening the battery. New ignition switch (OEM) is the same. Pulled all fuses and none kill it. I gather the feed is direct from the ignition switch but was wondering if it was backfeeding from the permanent live feed via the headunit? I haven't disconnected that yet to check so was looking here to see if anyone has seen this before? Now prays this isn't a known problem!!

Swannview are a cheapish option. Better res costs more. Full HD is pricey

Good luck claiming against the Council. They will say unless the pothole was previously reported and known about they cannot be expected to know about the state of all the roads in their area. Been there........

http://www.dabonwheels.co.uk/Kinetic_DRA-6001_FM-AM_DAB_car_aerial.html Direct fit in hole but you need to run two cables forward to head unit. 12v and FM lead.

Just seems to be tempting fate that's all. Need Spring to come as early as possible, this weather is doing my head.

I went with the £55.99 bundle. It has a DAB lead and FM/AM lead as I wanted to keep FM available. My new head unit has an ISO socket which suits the FM lead in the bundle. Big deep breath and out came the glovebox and off came the left hand screen trim. You just need to drop the rooflining on the left hand side to run the new cables along the path of the existing aerial cable. The DAB aerial needs a 12v supply so run that along the same path. I just tapped it off the switched lead going into the back of the head unit. Use an inline fuse. As always check the perm live and switched live of the pins of the connectors. The new leads are too long for the Corrado so coil them up out of the way of the sunroof mech, unless you can find someone to shorten them. The Pure head unit has Bluetooth for phone and streaming music from smartphone.