Jump to content

andy

Members
  • Content Count

    1,529
  • Joined

Posts posted by andy


  1. Hi Roger. CDA is a Carbon Dynamic Airbox, basically its THE induction kit to have on a VR6. Its a clever piece of kit that fits in place of the standard airbox and contains a high performance air filter inside a carbon heatshielded box. Lots of people have them on their VR6s, if you search on this site you will soon realise how well rated they are. I believe that Stealth have seen these liberate 7bhp on a standard VR6. The main advantage of these over other induction kits is the fact that the airbox is heat shielded and has a cold air intake, so you're not sucking in underbonnet hot air. Also the sound is supposed to be awesome, not loud and trashy but classy and purposeful. Have a search on here. I'll try to get some links/pics up.

     

    Andy


  2. I have had mine in and out several times, I grab the front of the seat, one hand on lhs, one hand on rhs. Lift the front up whilst waggling the whole seat back and forth. I wouldn't recomment lifting the rear of the seat, as the cushion has a pice of metal that slides under a piece welded to the bodywork, you'll break something if you just pull it up.


  3. I've got my rears disconnected at the moment, I would rather keep it that way for purity but think I'm losing out from just running the 5.25 inch components. Might try connecting the 6*4s and see if that fills it out a bit.


  4. Yep the GTi is a bit of a joke performance wise, but the general build quality and finish of the MK4 puts most other cars of that type to shame. I do have a soft spot for the TDi versions, had many as hire cars...absolutely fantastic. I love Top Gear but generally take what Clarkson etc says with a pinch of salt, look how many Mk4 Golfs there are on the road.....that says it all to me.


  5. The amp for the components is set in highpass mode, which is 80Hz and above. Have tried it in all pass but doesn't sound very different. The lowpass on the sub is set at 160Hz. Running Toyo Proxe T1-R tyres at the mo. To be honest its more general noise than wind noise, the cars on standard exhaust and induction too. I never really found it noisy until I put this new system in and I realise that I can't hear what I think I should be able to!


  6. I haven't got any dynamat in there at the moment, will that reduce road noise significantly? To be honest I can't work out if the speakers aren't up to the job or whether the general noise is drowning out what would otherwise sound ok.


  7. Just upgraded the speakers in my C to Focal Access 130 (thats the 5.25in ones) components driven by an Alpine 2 channel amp. Running a ported sub box in the boot as well. The sound is acceptable when the car is stationary really lacks any punch once the car is at speed and has all the associated road/wind noise etc. The treble is very present from the components and the sub has no problem but I'm really struggling in between. Is this to be expected from these components, ie should I have gone for the bigger 6.5 inch ones? What can I do to improve /fill the gap? Any experience/advice appreciated.


  8. Cheers for all your help everyone. I have finally sorted it... :-) I substituted a mates amp and all was well, not a squeak of noise. Have bought a two channel Alpine amp today and have just wired it up now to test it and it sounds great. To be honest the amp I was using was of the distinctly cheap variety, I was never going to use it long term, just thought it would do to get things rolling! Learnt a lesson there...buy cheap...buy twice :-)


  9. Replaced the ht leads, problem still there, what else could cause this intereference. I've tried two different amps, two different head units, two sets of phono leads, new set of ht leads, alternator disconnected and its still buzzing away. I have only connected the amp in the front passenger footwell, not in its final position as yet. Need to get it working properly there before I start adding several metres of cable into the equation. This really is getting ridiculous!


  10. Will try that, are the resistors there to provide supression or is the resistance a necessary characteristic of an HT lead? I'm, thinking the only thing that can possibly be causing interference with the alternator disconnected must be the HT. Thing is the car runs absolutely perfectly and I'm therefore reluctant to replace the leads (at great cost!) if they are not providing the interference!


  11. Yes, RCAs are well away. Trying to tidy all the wiring up today but having problems again. When I touch a known good earth to the outside cage of the headunit the noise mostly disappears. However when I connect the good earth to the actual multiway plug earth, the noise is just as bad as ever. Its not normal to earth the case of the stereo is it, surely that's done internally? Could dodgy HT leads still be the problem? Maybe I'm just shielding the headunit when I ground the case. aaaaagh!


  12. Right, a happy man now! Just put a heavy guage cable earth cable from the head unit cage down to the earth stud in the passenger footwell, 95% of the noise has gone. Will wire it all in properly tomorrow. Can anyone tell me why (technically) a bad earth should cause noise pickup?


  13. Having problems with my stereo, it worked fine before but now I've installed components and an amp I'm getting horrendous electrical noise breaking through. When I disconnect the RCAs from the head unit the noise disappears, so I thought the head unit was to blame, swapped that....same thing happens. Put a surpressor in the power feeds to the head unit and it's still there, disconnected the alternator today, still there. Looking at ht leads now I suppose, is this really likely to be the cause?

×
×
  • Create New...