andy

15k ish, couldn't justify owning any car I only did 500 miles a year in... ;-)

cheers ;-)

cheers ;-)

have they got a website? i'm well interested at that price

No cables mate. Rears are easyish. Do a search mate, there's loads of info.

Correct.

If you're talking about the black plastic ht lead guides....no pics but....remove the leads then there are several allen bolts holding the guides on. The VR6 grey cover is held in by those guides and will just lift away when they're gone.

1 No probs, washer fluid needed, couple of quid.

2 Get Dubsport to do it unless you're up to it. Not mega bucks.

3 New top mounts, £10 to £15 each. Labour may be a fair bit if you get someone to do it as this is a strut out job and may require suspension allignment £40 ish depending on how they do it.

4 Rear strut off job, couple of hours at most labour, bumpstops are

5 Not a massive job, quote?

Do it. One thing to bear in mind is that economy has to be a low priority with a VR6, around town they're not brilliant, 20 something. I use mine on long runs evryday and average 30. There's so many good things about a VR6 though, the sound...the refinement...the torque.

I'm a member! Have been since it started 18 months ago, its very friendly over there. I've defo seen Kevhaywire there. Well worth a visit.

They look like fuel lines, leading to the fuel injectors. Thats my guess!

Main beam is controlled by the left hand indicator stalk, not the two position switch on the dash. You were correct on the sequence though, once for sidelights, twice for dipped headlights. Indicator stalk toggles high beam on/off and should be indicated by a blue light on the dash.

bump ;-)

I mostly use Sainsburys Super, it feels better and definately runs more economically than on standard unleaded (95 RON) haven't tried BP or Optimax in this one yet.

I noticed the same a couple of days ago, and have a question. Should you be able to blow through that valve with virtually no resistance from either way. I can and am wondering if my valves knackered.

Cough....anyone?

I find the Corrado noticeably more torquey than the Golf, its only 0.1 of a litre extra but I think it really makes a difference. I came from a Golf VR6 which ran very nicely, but everybody who's been in my Corrado has said how much quicker it feels than the Golf. The C definately puts a bigger smile on my face too.

I think my front top mounts may be worn, its a 94 VR6. I seem to remember someone saying that if you can get your fingers underneath the top caps above the suspension turrets that the top mounts are probably worn. Is this correct........??? Theres loads of space under mine of late.

If the engine speed isn't affecting the road speed then its safe to say you have clutch problems.....and a few others by the sound of it mate!

I noticed the same a couple of days ago, and have a question. Should you be able to blow through that valve with virtually no resistance from either way. I can and am wondering if my valves knackered.

I've just cured what I thought was rumbling bearings by changing to 4 new Toyo T1-R tyres, well happy.

ISV for sure mate, I had exactly the same symptoms on my old Golf VR6, it was like someone was in it revving it when I was outside looking at the engine, turned out to be a bit of crap from the ISV sound deadner (next to the ISV) had got lodged in the ISV, it did happen once again but it turned out to be a bit of crap in the pipes leading to the ISV, so check them too!

I saw 105 on the way to work tonight, not concerned in the slightest. It's generally a bit lower but goes to 105 ish if I'm giving it some.

That's oil temp by the way.

Yes it is, idle stabilisation valve, one part of the feedback loop that controls the idle speed on your engine. The electrical connections supply a voltage that determines how much air passes through the valve and therefore into your engine, thereby controlling the idle speed.

Cool, keep us posted mate.