TomD

GSF Do do a 4 bar VR6 one, I put one in my G60. Vince at Stealth gave me the part number to order as two GSF's I rang told me they didn't do one!.

I'll dig out the part number from somewhere if you need it! :)

Think it was about £90.

Meh, I went to GSF to get some top mounts, looked at their 'VR6' ones and they looked a totally different shape, so I played safe and went for the G60 ones. I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow/saturday so I'll have a good look at everything then. TBH at 175k I'm tempted to just replace the whole set up (ball joiunts, wishbones, all the bushes) Is that gonna be likely to cost a hell of a lot?

Cheers for your help guys!

As or the slight knocking, what I mean is I'd heard a very similar sound in a mates old mk2, and it turned out to be the top mount, so fingers crossed It'll solve it. Its not really a knock, its hard to describe, but you can kind of feel it. And if the wheel moves slightly, then that would surely effect the steering slightly? :?:

No Worries, thanks very much for your help.

I've just been looking at the bentley manual, i'm thinking its gonna be a pain in the arse, plus I'm gonna have to set the camber and tracking afterwards as well, fun fun fun! :(

I think the idea of doing it at home is rapidly becoming a non starter, so its either off to the garage or enlist a mate and borrow his workshop! :)

No.. it should all be fairly solid! If its the hub end thats wobbling then I wouldn't say its the top mounts that are to blame?

What I mean is, there's play at the top of the strut, which means the hub has movement (like an eliptical top mount, but crapper)

Bugger, had a feeling that was gone be the answer!

Do you have normal type Struts, with the top nut with those 2 wedges in it? As I can't see that anywhere on the top of my strut, unlike the normal VW ones. I'm guessing (hoping) as its a totally different unit it won't have it, just a 22mm bolt.

As for the VR6 top mounts, are these ones listed on GSF ok to use??

45737K STRUT TOP MOUNTING KIT CO VR6 8/91 >

I'm guessing these would be the proper replacements?

45709A STRUT TOP MOUNTING CO 4 Cyl >7/94

Thanks Jim! :)

P.S. Is it worth getting uprated top mounts while I'm at it? :)

Ok... Jacked up the front right of the car today just to check on the front brakes I changed 2000 or so miles ago...

...There's a fair amount of play in the top mount, with it off the ground you can grab the coilover, or the top bit in the engine bay and make the hub wobble.

My steerings always felt a bit 'odd'.... and makes the odd funny noise (knock-ish noise) Could this be why?

Or is supposed to do that, and am I being a muppet?

My car's on fully adjustable weitec coilovers, so whats it like to swap the top mounts? I've only done it once before on normal shocks. Do I need do the whole spring compressor thing, or do they just bolt on the top?

Cheers in advance!

Tom

I've got 195-50-15's Goodyear Eagle F1's on my 7J 15" Wheels.

My wheels are off a BMW and when I bought them they had 205-50-15's on, and looked really chubby.

Mine are in no way low profile, but look much bette, and at £35 quid each, pretty cheap! :)

Mine does the same (15x7 Wheels, Goodyear Eagle F1's)

with full throttle you can feel as the power comes in it'll spin the wheels in 1st, 2nd, very occasionally 3rd (But I its not running quite the same power as yours!)

Basically I reckon there's 3 options.

1) Bring the power back down to standard...nope!

2) Be a little gentler with the right boot

3) Go for a LSD Diff (Peloquin/Quafie etc)

I've got an LSD on the list for mine, but then its a very very long list! :)

:)

I was told it was the only one they had left of the handbrake handles, although I'm sure they'll have more in Germany and they can order them over to the UK.

The Handbrake handle was about £25 IIRC, and the knob, about the same. Maybe a bit more! :)

Here's mine.... bought a new VAG Handbrake Handle and Gear Knob for mine a few months ago, along with a new gear gaitor off the guy on the bay.

Makes a huge difference compared to the tatty original, and to be honest, I reckon they look much better than 99.9% of aftermarket stuff.

:)

Here's mine....picked it up on ebay with a honda boss dead cheap.

The one on the car when I bought it was awful!

Its nice, simple, good size, chunky, and its not quite round, so you can see the dials perfectly.

Thats good to know coz I just fooked my sensor trying to get it out of the miltek de-cat pipe!

That sounds familiar! :oops:

I've damaged the wiring to mine, so at the minute I've unplugged my lambda probe and it runs fine! :)

I´m with Henny on this one!

 

Anyway if you don´t get sorted by replacing the ignition switch, i can tell you that i´ve seen a similar situation.

 

It was the fuel pump, and you couldn´t notice anything while driving.

 

But before buying a new pump, always check its pressure on the fuel rail (easier).

 

Keep posting! :)

Mine did a smiliar thing the other day...died and turned over but wouldnt start...like it had run out of petrol. Turned out the fuel pump fuse had blown.

Check all the fuses (the fuel pump one's the 5th from the right yellow/20A one.

Turned out my lambda probe/wiring was knackered, which was blowing the fues (same circuit) so I've unplugged it and it runs fine! :)

Fingers crossed its something simple! :)

Woohoo!

It works! Risked it and took it down to halfords on the last 20A fuse I had...the one for the heated rear windscreen! :oops:

Thanks Supercharged, and everyone else! :)

Thanks!

Sorry...didnt mean to write post twice, thought it didn post first time! :)

Hi!

Thanks very much for your help with the lambda probe/fuel pump fuse etc!

Is there a fair chance that it'll cure the shorting problem if I disconnect the lambda probe for the time being and make sure its all taped up?

I've run out of 20A fuses now and an wandering if I'll make it down to halfords before the next fuse goes! :)

Cheers Again, sorry for being a bit of a nooob, corrado's are still new to me!! Ask me anything about a Mk2 Golf 8v gti!

Tom

Ah - just re-read it, I reckon the heater wiring in the probe loom is shorting...

Do you know which one that is? And so if I unplugged the plug behind the block, taped it all up and secrued it, it would run ok and not short out every 5 minutes?

If it means anything, it doesnt seem to do it until the engines warmed up a bit.

Ok...

Taped up the split in the wire I found.

Another test drive.

Still does it.

So I'm thinking its either the wiring further down around the lambda sensor, Or I've buggered the lambda sensor itself.

Anyway, I'm not going to have time to take the lambde back out and look at all the wiring, so...

If I was to unplug the lambda sensor, would that stop the shorting???

I'm sure I've seen some people on here don't even run them at all. I ran out of 20A fuses on the last test drive, so to get me the last 200 metres home, I unplugged the lamda sensor plug behind the block (mandatory burn on hand from manifold, obviously!) And stuck a 15A one in.

Now I thought that if it was going to short it would do it straight away, but it got me home.

Would this cure the problem for now?? CAn't really risk any more test drives tonite! :)

Ok I've had a quick look this morning and I can see a small split in one of the wires coming from the the taped up loom part, going to the plug above the plug not below it.

I'll insulate that tonite and then see what happens!

Sorry though guys, can't see how it would be crimped under the exhaust, the wiring goes straight up towards the engine bay. Only other thing I can think of it being is I haven't run the wiring through the right way and its getting squashed around the ARB/ subframe etc!

Cheers again guys! :)

Ok, that sounds likely if its on the same circuit!

I'll have a good look and see if its the cause! :)

Cheers guys!

Is it likely I'll have to replace the wiring and the lambda sensor? Is it possible to buy them new? Or a case of making sure the wires are insulated?

Hi All!

Really need some help to fix my C!

Last saturday I fitted a milltek decat pipe to my corrado in place of the old custom one.

Swapped it over ok, and took it for a test drive. Was going nicely, sounded good etc.

But then it lost all power. pulled over, had to get the AA out etc.

Anyway, turned out the fuel pump fuse had blown. Swapped it, half a mile down the road it blows again. Eventually limp home after sticking a 25A fuse in it (its supposed to be a 20A)

So the AA man and I agree its probably the fuel pump thats knackered, furry muff, its managed 175k on its original one.

After speaking to Vince at stealth (very helpful by the way....thanks very much! :) ) I ordered a late VR fuel pump from GSF, and a Fuel pump relay from VW.

The pump arrived today so fitted it this evening, and took the car for a drive.

But it happened again. You can here the fuse blow every time, took me ages to travel the mile back home and about 5 fuses.

So what can I have done to my poor cars wiring by changing the centre section of the exhaust??? That's the only thing I can think is causing it.

Changing the exhaust is also the only thing I did that saturday, and it was fine before.

The only wiring I touched was the Lambda sensor.

I really need to use the car tomorrow morning, so any pearls of wisdom are very very welcome!

Thanks in advance!!!

Tom :x

...although a neighbour once called my valver "brown"! :mad:

One of the old MOT's that came with my car says its brown!

Some people :roll:

Yep, I think its Dark Burgundy Pearl too! :)

its not plug and play as such, you can supply the plugs to him though, so either your old ones or ones from the stealer

 

ps TomD:

 

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Does it not work for you? It works for me. I must be doing somehting wrong!

...damn computers! :roll:

Mine's got a 20 amp fuse (its what it came with)

but then my lights are still crap! :(