David Winter

But it does not work with the new switch connected and turning with a screwdriver. But does work with the button start reconected to the same wires with the new switch.

Yes you are right it has been cut. I can see the other end of this black and red wire but want to keep the immobiliser working. I thougt about reconnecting them but am worried i will short out the imobiliser or something.

Ive just tried disconnecting the start button wires and connecting back up to the old switch and the ignition comes on but will not turn over. So I tried conecting the multiplug to the new switch and turning with a screwdriver but still will not turnover. Does turnover only if I reconect the button start.

Yes maybe it could be that simple. I think I may be confused by the non standard imobiliser wires.

The ignition switch should fit straight onto the larger connected you have labelled. This large wire I have labelled is the bit that goes to the aftermarket button that I have pulled out of the dash.

Hi. Ive just bought a new ignition switch because I want to unwire the start switch that someone had wired to my vr6 I asume because the original ignition switch is duff. Ithought it would be obvious and simply a case of disconecting the wires going to the swich. Can anyone see what I need to do here?

Hi. My heater has started steaming up the screen and after removing the passenger shelf area can see a dribble of water where the ducting is cliped together. A taste test concludes it is sweet and must be coolant. I tried replacing the foilage filter gasket first but also after realising the coolant level is falling conclude its the matrix unfortunately. Ive read this is an awful job involving lots of swearing. Ive seen the knowledge base thread about not removing the whole dash and am going to atempt this at the weekend.I Have ordered a VAG matrix today but am scared! :( Can anyone give me any last minute advise ? Or will I break the world swearing record this weekend :brickwall:

Mine is always in the red. I cannot possibley afford a tank of fuel for one of these things :( I recon it would be the best part of £70 quid. Ive owned Rados since 2001 and cant remember ever filling right up as I have also thought about the extra weight.

Have you considered 16ins wheels? Had those on a Raddo 16v I owned years ago. They looked cool and the ride is fine.

I bought mine off him knowing it was a bit rough in need of tlc. I got it for a cheap price at the time 2 years ago. Its always been reliable and now after some hard work its a really nice car. Just use your jugement as if it was a private seller and give the car a good inspection so you know what you are getting. Mine had a sound engine checked out when I hpi checked it so I decided to risk it at £2900 for a 98k which was cheap then. Main worries were. The gear box was stiff and first was hard to engage. New oil and a linkage adjustment solved it. ABS didnt work. Dash light didnt come on so I did not spot it!. Luckily a new dash light and front sensors sorted this. Just be a bit careful and as I say my car was worth the money at the time and is now a good car.

Thank God our Corrados are pre-2001. Just been on the parkers site where you can find out exactly what tax your vehicle will cost in road tax in 2010. The Corrados goes up about £20 to £200 a year which I know is not cheap but a Golf R32 which is a similar modern version is going to be £750 a year :shock: This has got to make the price of older cars like our Corrdos higher hopefully!

Try and source early vr6 original springs. They sit the car more level and look better than the kicked up rears of late VRs. I have photographed both so check out my posts.

Lovely rare original car 8)

No pain No gain as they say :D In all honesty I found it ok. The handle is adjustable and its a lot less painfull than hand cuting and polishing.

Cheers Dave. Will have to take you up on that. The finish on your Vr is really glossy. The picture of the polisher is for bens16v.

Like I said. I used T-cut as a cutting paste on the bonnet which I know is not the best thing to use but if careful works. I used this on the very badly swirled bonnet. It has not eliminated everything but is so much better than it was.

The polisher was £29.99 from Halfords. Comes with 2 buffers which are washerble. One being finer than the other. This is a mains 240v one. They do a smaller cheaper one which is £19 but is 12v for the cigarette socket.

Hi guys. My Corrado has been running well recently and after seeing a thread on here on machine polishing the paint I decided to try. The paint on my car was sound but suffering from deep swirls and light scratches looking quite ropey really. I bought a machine polisher from Halfords and the Meguirers 3 step polishes. I used T-cut on the polisher for the harshest and most trashed area (the bonnet),caution must be used obviously. Then machine polished with step1 and 2 and hand polished with the step 3 wax. Im staggered with the results. It really has transformed the paint. I was thinking I would need to get the bonnet sprayed so am well pleased. 8) Carefull car washing should see this new finish last hopefully.Corrado92.pdfpolish.jpg[/attachment:96lafxpl]

Cheers guys. These were exchange prices! and Im worried about any other damage to the alternator plus its 14 years old and would rather replace it I think.Ill try ringing GSF. Thanks.

My 90a alternator has a knackered pulley bearing on my VR6. I have removed it and the belt and need new ones. I was quoted £205 for the alternator! :eek: and £28! for the Serp belt from VAG. This seems really expensive. I tried somewhere called partco from the phone book and they quoted £150 for the alt and £15 for the belt. Although this is better Im worried about the part quality and really wanted genuine parts . Any ideas guys.?

Very nice. Think carefully about lowering it. You have the nice early VR6 spring set up there. It sits nice and level without the late VR6 skyscraper rear springs. It will look spot on with the speedlines back on. Maybe put new oe shocks on and it will be very drivable on our lousy roads. I lowered my Storm and was never that happy. I now have an L plate VR with the earlier lower springs like yours and with new shocks fitted its spot on. A lot of cars with original springs have tired shocks and feel a bit wallowey but it feels spot on when new shocks are fitted.

Guys I cant believe this. Ive had just over a month with no problems but today the fault is happening again. I can only now conclude it must be a slightly warped rotor and a brand new sensor solves the problem temporarily. Any comments?

Ive been serviceing my VR6 myself. Have just changed the oil+filter + air filter. Genuine parts from vw. My question is Is it worth simply keeping the receipts for the parts to show its been done or is it acceptable to fill in the service book and clip the reciepts in.? May seem a strange question but I cannot justify the price of serviceing just for a stamp but if I do sell want it to be obvious Ive cared for it.

I dont believe bloody Listers. I rushed up to get an oil filter and some oil this morning before they closed, got home drained the oil, removed the filter etc. On opening the new filter it is different. Can someone confirm what I alreay fear that I cannot use this. The code on the old filter is 021115561A and the new is 021115561B. If my suspisions are correct I wont be getting to work on monday! Please can someone help. Cheers