dr_mat

hmm anytime revs change linked to the braking system it's either a vacuum issue, OR there's a weird voltage regulator issue on the dash - the handbrake triggers the little LED. Perhaps there's a short somewhere that's causing the ECU to go a bit bonkers. HTH. M.

Hey, that looks a lot like my car!! Apart from the colour and the number plate, that is!! Anyone else around here got a VW Corrado? Wouldn't that be a coincidence!! ;) ;) ;) Seriously though, welcome to the forum!! :)

Good advice there, corozin. Even if you're not running a turbo it's always a good idea to let the engine cool WITH oil and air circulating, rather than just stopping it completely. Why do you think the VR6 has the electric water pump that runs after the engine has been switched off? Oh, and regarding oil. Really these days if you're using *quality* oil, unless you're seeing 150 degree+ for 20-30 minutes at a time, you're not going to find the oil dying in less than 5000-10000 miles. Plenty more for fully synthetics, so if you *do* run high temps in the engine, just change the oil more often. Two oil changes a year costs a lot less than an oil cooler. (I'm not going to get into the environmental impacts, however..!) ;) Personally I've never seen more than 120 degrees on my oil, and that's including a trackday (admittedly ambient air temp was down at 13 degrees, and it was a very fast running circuit tho), and I would still change it roughly every 5k miles. My 2p. :)

I guess you have to order a hire car to go to the pictures if you drive a DB7. And as for going to Safeway, well you wouldn't want the local idiots throwing shopping trolleys at it now, would you? :) Re: the K-series head gasket probs. I have a feeling it's only the larger engines. It was on watchdog last night... The rover engines do feel quick, they seem to have good low-end grunt. I drove a bog-standard 600 once. Remarkable push @1500 rpm from a 1.8 in a car that heavy!

I'm waiting for the video... Doors of 'plane open... Car heads for open doors... Car plummets towards ground at 40.. 50.. 60 mph!! "Stop the clock!!" LOL :) ;)

I like the way you say this. Kinda like - "oh and which flavour milkshake this morning: banana or strawberry?". Somewhat understating the implications, your comments above... ;)

Many companies do, but they back out the agreed-value part of the policy to another company usually (I forget who now). So the main insurer would pay out their own valuation of the vehicle, and if this is below the "agreed value" on the policy, the secondary insurer would cover the shortfall.

I didn't notice any significant benefit from going over 25. And yes, isn't it amazing that my renewal quote came down by over £200 when I told them I got a better quote elsewhere..? I'm still desperately trying to build a full NCB, though, so I'm still paying through the nose.. :(

I'm glad you used the word "illusion"...

If you had a VR6 he'd have been dropping back slowly, but certainly never able to overtake, true enough.. Perhaps you should buy a VR6 instead?? ;)

Not usually.. Mine didn't, for example..

This whole argument hinges on exactly how you interpret the question. If it is asked as "which is best value as a starting point for a project" it's got to be the G60 - as has been pointed out tons of times there's so much more tweakability in the engine right away. But if the question is "which is the best performer out-of-the-box", obviously it has to be the VR6. Only 15-20 kilos heavier and 30 bhp more power? Not to mention that 6-pot smoothness and the wicked engine noise make it the winner every time for me personally. If the VR6 shipped with a low-pressure turbo it would have been equally ripe for tweaking right from day one (now *that* would be a nice car to drive), but frankly I don't think it's worth putting a race turbo on a VR - insane power through the front wheels would appear to be a bit of a liability!!

Jammers aren't "legal". Detectors are... I think that although there is nothing in the law that explicitly states the use of jammers is illegal, the police will typically do you for impeding justice, or whatever. If you get caught with one you will be told to remove it, or they will find something to do you for... I'd stick with detectors and GPS systems myself.

An indicator bulb in the main beam spot??

Those MPG figures are actually slightly worse than I got out of my VR6 around bruntingthorpe... :shock: But I have to say, if you start the VR cold, and get stuck in traffic immediately, it's not hard to see "6mpg" on the MFA!!

I think the only way to fix 16.5 mpg on a 1.8 16v is to find the fuel leak!!!

It's highly likely the oil cooler seals, as I've found on mine...

yes. Silver - 10w40, gold - 5w40, iirc. Silver is also semi-synthetic, not fully synthetic.

Probably...

Swap the throttle cable, if that doesn't work you could have a screwed throttle position sensor.

yes (How's that for a short and to the point answer? ;-) )

Wheel bearing...

Yep. Spot on.

All cars eventually have to have the heater matrix replaced. It's just another fragile metal thing filled with water. It will eventually corrode away.. :(

Your best bet is to use one of the GPS-based "detectors", cos the database includes "all known speed traps", so is continually updated. It is in NO WAY illegal (and never could be) to use a GPS location finder in your car - it just so happens that one function of it is to tell you when you're near a camera. Many of these are being extended to include known accident blackspots, so they have become an actual safety feature - you might not barrel through a seemingly innocent looking corner if you knew 500 people died there last year doing the same thing, sorta thing... IMHO this is better than relying on detectors, although both have their place. There are some things out there that obscure your license plates. They will always be illegal - that'll never change... http://www.ukspeedtraps.co.uk/ This is an excellent site with loads of info, reviews of detectors, law information. No I didn't write it! I'm completely unbiased!! :)