Jump to content

fendervg

Subscriber
  • Content Count

    3,246
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Posts posted by fendervg


  1. Hi.

     

    What's the recommended way of keeping the sunroof mech running smoothly ? What kind of grease/lubricant do you use ? Noticed that it's a bit slower to close recently, and remembered reading that it's a service check.

     

    Bearing grease

    Lithium grease

    Wd40

    Multip purpose oil

    etc.

     

    and for all the wags, I've already thought of most of the funny (or not so ) answers...e.g. KY, butter, vaseline etc. so no need unlees it's really original.

     

    Cheers.


  2. Apologies for ressurecting an old thread, but does anyone have the part number for a fuel pump relay (167) that has been purchased recenlty for a VR6 ?

     

    My stealer shows lots of superceded part numbers and the one I have in the car shows up as an ECU relay on their system.


  3. I bought the kit, but haven't got around to fitting it yet. It looks relatively easy to fit - I'll see if I can take a few pictures of the contents. I also need to get hold of the correct later style cruise control lever, as the one I have is pre-facelift.

     

    There seem to be two ways of doing cruise control:

     

    - get hold of a full original kit from a Corrado/Golf /Passat and rip everything out and fit - this means taking out the pedal box etc. and means using second hand parts

     

    - fit one of these aftermarket items, the install seems easier, but I don't know anything about how well it works yet, although it is quite a standard retrofit for camper vans and motor homes so I can't see that there should be too many problems.

     

    Of course if you have a conversion to a later engine such as a 1.8T, or a even a diesel, cruise control is a simple plug and play affair that you can turn on in software as it's fly by wire.


  4. I believe you may be able to wind the motors on by hand using an allen key, same as the sunroof. The door cards would have to come off though.

     

    Some bin liners and duct tape as a temporary measure ?


  5. Would be interested in the answer to this as well - I'm pondering a full 288 front and Mk4 rear conversion on my brakes.

     

    AFAIK they bolt straight on - they can also be got new from ATE, might be worth considering as you may have to do a rebuild on secondhand ones - although the rebuild kits aren't expensive and the later callipers don't seize as easily as the MkII ones.


  6. Here's a few links to get you started:

     

    file.php?id=9462

    Sample wiring pins -various sizes

     

    file.php?id=9463

    Loom tape

     

     

    848_0.jpg

    A terminal extractor tool - you can get them cheaper than this

     

    1916_0.jpg

    Wiring repair set

     

    2544_0.jpg

    Connector - this a lighting one - but all the standard ones are available, just check the part # on them. The VAG parts system has a whole set of pages on connectors, wiring and terminals in the Electrical section.

     

    Check this link out for some part numbers:

    http://www.quattroforum.com/forum/elect ... basic.html

     

    Hope this helps.


  7. These are all still available new from the stealers - they are standard connectors found on many VAGs of the era. Go in with the part or the part #. Not expensive. If they give you the runaround, just go to another dealer that is more helpful.

     

    To rewire you can order repair kits that are basically a 5 inch length of yellow wire (available in various gauges) with a pin crimped onto each end - cut them in half, insert into the connector and splice into the loom. It's also possible to order just the contact blade crimps themselves, but you will need a specialist crimp tool to form a good join. Use exterior fabric wire wrap or heatshring to seal the connection and you're done. The existing pins can be removed either with a specialist extractor tool, or a very small flat blade jeweller's screwdriver.

     

    Alternatively find a car in a scrappies or one that is being broken and take the bits you need off the loom - I'm sure there are plenty on here.


  8. If they are new OEM springs they will sit very high until it settles down - drive it for a while, put something in the boot and wait at least 500 miles before doing an alignment and tracking again if you've done the fronts as well.


  9. Update: I got this installed the other day - rather than cutting the left and right signal wires, I used a posi-tap connector to link it up. Much nicer than a scotch-lock. They also have inline fuse holders of the same design that helped sort out a loose alarm power feed. The comfort blinkers work a treat !

     

    Now for a lights on buzzer (planning on using the MkIII buzzer relay), headlight range adjustment and cruise control retrofit.


  10. I have a Meta car alarm that will close both windows and the sunroof when you hold the remote down for longer when locking. 93 car. It has a signal wire that connects to the CL for this and it was just a setting that had to be activated on the alarm.


  11. I had problems with a rattling cat heat shield recently and after lifting the car at a mechanics you could see that one of the mounting bolt/nut combination had corroded - just removed the whole shield and have had no problems and no more embarrassing noises when idling or pulling off. As it's just there to protect the ground underneath the car and not the underbody from excess heat, it should be fine. Just don't park in a puddle of petrol.....


  12. @Supercharged - thanks for the info - I was pretty sure that they were still available from dealers in the UK, that is I presume where the various other sellers on ebay and the web are sourcing theirs. Obviously once you have the right part number the easiest way to get them is to simply walk into your local stealership and buy them over the counter.

     

    The problem for me was trying to arrange shipping to Ireland. Very few Irish dealers are even willing to look into ordering this kind of stuff and I understand that the part number is UK only.


  13. The ebay seller ID is lesbray on ebay.co.uk - this is where I got mine - also known as veedubmachine

     

    There is also seller ID silverwagen, cheaper, but will only ship to the UK and not sure if th emats are the same.

    If you search for the part # in google it also turns up the following:

     

    http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.ph ... cts_id=376, same as first seller on ebay

     

    and

     

    http://www.shop4volkswagen.co.uk/produc ... 3VAG1418BJ, shows as in stock at £57.99 inc VAT, but only ship to UK as well.

     

    Hope this helps.

×
×
  • Create New...