floppyman

Great work!!! Been wanting for these covers for a long time. If possible i would keep 3 sets but...... they would have to be posted to portugal??

I wouldnt put any oil on it.... theres allways oil in the intake so some of it will end in the isv. Thats why they end up so dirty anyways

Same thing here. Especially when lights on,wipers, heather, fogs and rear demist. In the middle of one my trips to portugal with the dash showing 150°c oil temp, in act of panic i punched the clocks and the temps started going down... I was thinking might be a bad earth maybe inside the actual clocks

What year is your corrado? Maybe immobiliser?

+1 If disconnecting the maf doesnt make a difference then i would start with that. And if your near Portent then its a good offer to try another one without spending ££££

Wow.... So many people having this problem now a days. All your problems are already around the forum. The crank sensor is normal to have as a fault code. When the engine is running the fault will go away. Thats how it works. Your high idle is down to a air leak on the intake pipes ,blocked isv damper box or the isv itself. Have a search for isv problems on the forum

Dont think the small leak will cause it. Do the fans kick in? Start the car at idle and remove the small hose from the coolant bottle and check if you have a flow. If not raise the rpms a bit . Might be your water pump thats gone. Dont know if these engines have the plastic or metal impeler.

Not really... One way is using a can of brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray aroud the intake pipes while the engine is idling. If you notice a different engine note or rised rpm the you have a leak around the area youre spraying..... But the old fashion is still a good one (take pipes out and have a look):sly: have a look at the isv damper box aswell since some members have had some problems with the foam inside of it breaking down

I dont recomend that filter at all. Mainly due to the ecu already counting the extra air mass thats going unmetered. That alone might affect things... But dont think its enough to do what youre experiencing. Is the isv new?does it look new? What brand? And a isv adaptation might help aswell... But remember... Make shure its all air tight... No leaks.

When you say vagcom shows isv and lambda, does it say isv adaptation and/or lambda limit? The whole designation helps. Check the plug at the air mass meter, with engine running have a play around with the plugs and see if theres any difference. Check for air leaks crankcase breather is a good place to start looking. Its going to be a long diagnostic since this is all but very common to the obd1 vr6 engines.

Thats good you found the problem... Yes your guess is spot on. A isv adaption with vagcom would be good but if your happy with the result then you can leave it

Dont know the price of that but nice machine..... Hummmmm SSHD

Dont need to remove... Just disconnect the battery. And if its a mig welder you dont need to disconnect. But....... I allways do since my g60 got on fire after welding the exhaust with a spot welder

Wow.... :thumbup::thumbup: Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

A lot of work but it looks and works great. You will need the whole heater box from a mk4 golf and a extra cable (the one that regulates the heat is too small for the coversion), will need to cut the glove box and the lower pass. Side cover. A few extra holes in the bulk head. The plug that connects to the controlls from the fan is the same but needs a extra one for the lights. Ive done and love it.... But in the middle of the process i was thinking ... Why o why didnt i go for the hole mk4 dash setup.