P3rks

Hey guys and girls.. I'm having trouble fitting my Mocal sandwich plate to my G60. I'm removing the original oil cooler and blocking off the water pipes (have Samco hoses). The car has a Rallye FMIC fitted with the Golf U-Bend outlet. This outlet sits right in front of the oil filter housing meaning the sandwich plate outlets can't face straight forward. This means that fitting my sandwich plate is a nightmare. The outlets either have to come out: - In between the u-bend outlet and the metal waterpipe (where the block meets the gearbox), but means the oil pipes foul the radiator and I have to relocate the knock sensor wiring (where it meets the engine loom). It fits, just, but I'm worried about heat transfer and rubbing as it's a real tight fit. Or - Have the outlets facing the water pump and have the oil pipes squeezed in between all the water hoses then down and under the front engine mount. Once again I'm worried about heat transfer and rubbing. How have you with the Rallye U-Bend fitted your sandwich plate? Thanks!!

Or maybe a pressure leak in the system? Is the system over pressurising or losing pressure? What colour expansion and cap has it got? Black is old and pap, blue are the replacements and better. Even then at £7 odd from TPS it might be worth a renewal?

PM'd

I'm after a fully working set of G60 clocks. With mileage as close to 130,000 as possible.. I have DDI's in mine and I prefer the OE look. What have you got? Thanks!!

I'm planning on fitting a 4-branch in the next few days. I have done some research and some people comment that they sit very close to the steering gaiter; what is best to stop this setting on fire? Should I wrap the gaiter in exhaust heat wrap? Will this protect it? Or shall I use something else? Also, is it recommended to wrap the exhaust to aid bay temperatures? I know welds have been known to crack with this. Whats peoples thoughts?

Cheers Baz, Not looked through the receipts, but the flanges look far too good to be original. The matrix flange literally shattered when I removed the water pipe. Whether it's recent or been sat there a while, who knows? I think tomorrow I might try and get some high pressure water or air down all the channels, just in case there is more. It could explain why the car drove for 1hr, but the other times for 10 mims. Possibly the plastic Floated around the system until it got caught, then it blocked the system causing a pressure rise, then when turned off the particle floated around again. Just a thought? Anyway, the car should be up and running by the weekend; well, if all my parts arrive in time. :)

Update time... I've just inspected the bottom end, and well, it seems fine, no cracks or major problems as far as I can see.. Although, I noticed something in one of the small water ways.. Hmmm.. Looks like something was in it.. I tried getting at it with a magnet, which didn't seem to work so a really thin pair of long nose pliars got it out. Looks to be some type of plastic or stone, it's non-mettalic anyway. I wonder if it's a part of the heater matrix flange which broke up? Or part of an old flange (as the head flanges have been re-newed recently from the looks of things) or even from the old water pump? I immediatley removed the current water pump and it has metal blades which are all intact. Idea's? From the looks of things it's gone in from the top and it's closest water way to the side flange on the head; which would indicate its from the heater matrix return feed (which is the flange which broke by the way). Would this little blockage cause the overheating I was experiencing? Could it have blocked water from that part of the head causing the crack? Anyway, I'll let the pictures do the talking..

I think I have a boner. :awesome:

Looking for some new wheels. I'm wanting something to fill the arches. I've found some 9x16 all around. ET15. My G60 has the standard 4 stud, but later VR6 front wings. It also has the brembo 305's. Will they fit? I'm aware I'll probably need the arches rolling to get it sitting nice.. But will the wheels physically fit over the brembo's and within the arches without sticking out. Thanks!

Well I know the reason they failed in the MK2.. Didn't they have like twists in the channels to slow the water flow to aid heat transfer? These got blocked easy and POP! I think I'll go Valeo route and save the cash for getting my car on the road.. Stupid cylinder head.

Balls.. So why do these things blow up then? What's the reason behind it?

I'm no expert on G's.. But there are a few about for that amount of money that's had a charger re-built. But like all things, it's swings and roundabouts, it looks like a nice standard G. That does seem like it's running low boost pressure, but like I say, without taking a look it could be anything, from as little as a £1 hose clip to a £700 charger. Just make sure you factor that in.

Tin of worms. This could be as simple as a worn/loose pipe, or as bad as a shagged charger. Either way I would factor in a charger rebuild if it's never had one. But saying that you could buy the car, rip the charger apart to find it's had it. There are loads of G60's for sale - cheap enough which have had recent charger rebuilds. Unless it's cheap enough I would personally avoid. It's been owned by someone who obviously doesn't know G60's so what else will it need? Just a thought.

I thought you'd say that :eek: Are Mk2/3 Golfs the same? I'm sure they are cheaper for some reason.

Can any one recommend a heater matrix for my '91 G60 please? VW want £153.98, TPS want £118.05 But I can get one from ECP for £15 :lol: Are the pattern parts that different from the OE ones? or is it worth shelling out? I don't want to be doing this job again. Also, can any one confirm if they are the same as Mk2/MK3 golf ones? Thanks!

Thanks for your constructive input. :iamwithstupid:

I'm after a Mocal oil cooler (or similar) with all the fittings.. Suitable for my Corrado G60 or anything similar. What have you got? Must be good condition. Thanks.

PM'd back and money paid for.

Hello all! I need a gear knob, in good condition, I don't mind a tad bit of wear but no tears. Preferably complete with all the cir-clips and grommets etc to refit properly to my gaiter. Thanks.

Yeah, it's a bit big isn't it!? :grin: I'll keep you updated, I think I'm going for the full engine as i can just slot it straight in rather than messing about with gaskets etc. Just to get it back on the road and I'll use my current bottom end for a rebuild.. hmmm what's that. 16v G60? I can but dream.. :shades:

Aww, thanks a lot buddy.. It's a full engine, well sump, block, head, cam cover and some brackets so it's a bit hefty. If push comes to shove we can use paisley freight or similar. But I'll keep you in mind!

He's been very good, he;s making all this that little bit better :thumbleft:

Thanks for the offer matey. But Baz has a spare engine he's sending me up. We just need to work out logistics of getting it from Bristol the Sheffield and cheap as possible! I'm a little put off as you'd imagine, but I know when it's running properly I'll have a smile on my face!

I did a sniff test and it failed (Co2 gasses in the coolant). I stripped the head down and it's currently getting pressure tested as we speak. I'm awaiting the phone call, they did say it would be around lunch time, so any minute now. Eeeeek! ---------- Post added at 01:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 PM ---------- Well... Bad news.. One of the coolant journals is leaking pressure near the surface (headgasket side). Apparently it's only a hairline crack. I'm assuming that the head gets hot, the crack expands and the temp suddenly rises. Balls. Anyone got a spare G60 head knocking about?

nice one! I'll have a word with TPS tomorrow when I pick up the expansion tank. Any idea where to buy the cooler kit from? I know G-Werks used to sell the full kit but i think they discontinued it.