seanl82

As long as it's properly disconnected all should be fine to take the rest out. Just trace the wires back rather than snip em off, that should leave you with all bases covered mate.

As above but with mildly warm water. By the time you've returned the jug/kettle to the kitchen, it should all be done. :thumbleft:

Had another "Oh F##k!" moment today. Was leaving work, but I'd been driving a little around the dockyard so oil temps were nice and hot, water temp at 90, and thought I'd hand a mate his arse on a plate as we stopped side by side at the lights. Road leading out onto A38 is a 50mph road, that merges a couple of hundred yards up from the lights. He was in a 1.6 astra thats chavved up btw. Anyway, lights turn green, I leave him for dust, down clutch, shift up to second, plant foot, spin wheels a bit, look in rear view, and I have absolutely masses of blue smoke pouring out the exhaust! He had to pull back a bit "apparently" as he couldnt see bugger all! pulled in on the shoulder, switched off engine, and sat with head in hands for a moment. What a cock I felt for trying to show off! Anyway, mate pulls up behind, and starts laughing! bloody cheek! Smoke stank of oil, so mind was racing, but then remembered I'd overfilled oil in the rush to get it done last week. Pulled plugs, all ok, started engine, still a bit smokey, but getting better, no pressure alarms, temps all good, sounds fine, so thought I'd crawl home. Started off very conservative, but smoke soon cleared, confidence rose slightly, and right foot got a little heavier. No power loss or anything, no rattles or knocks, and everything seems ok touch wood. Think I got away with it this time, but I will be NOT be hitting the limiter again in the near future! Drained a bit of oil, so now just below top of indicator, and picked up the exhaust coupler that needs fitting this w.end. Alternator not arrived yet, but will polish it up, and fit as soon as it does. The battery is lasting about 5 days between charges at moment so not the end of the world, but could do with it sharpish! I've also given the front end a go over with the rotary at the w.end. Wings look good, but bonnet is a lost cause I think! Pretty faded, and looking at the doors, I think I'm gonna struggle to sort them too. The wings and bumpers are gonna look great, but its gonna look like a bloody harlequin by the end of it! lol. Will get some pics up when all panels are done, some wax has been added, and I've taken her somewhere nice for some photos.

Its not just a weight hitting your caliper is it? I had that, chimps at pro tyre put the weights right in line with em. Luckily I found the cause pretty sharpish and they sorted it.

Ok, yeah does sound like starter motor. Give it another go, it won't do any damage to anything else, if it's already goosed, there is nothing else it could affect. Have a look on eBay, new starter motor is around £50 I think. You can get em for a bit more from one of gsf/ECP etc, they they all have 2 year guarantees so exactly the same IMO apart from being twice as much. Pretty simple to change too, sure there's a guide on here somewhere. Hope you get it all sorted mate.

For anyone interested, just had a look at my receipts and the 4-2-1 manni that's fitted to my KR was purchased from Pro Tech in Lancashire. Item number 190168320281 for Golf mk2 GTI and corrado 16v, price in Nov 07 was £189 incl VAT, and £12.75 delivery. No phone number and can't find a website (quick search and hundreds of companies named pro-tech!) but lots of reviews etc online.

Sounds like starter solenoid not springing back after run up, but if it's turning the engine over it could be something else. Starter motor is the cylindrical thing that sits just in front of the gearbox. When you turn the key, the solenoid shoots out (a small gear) and engages the flywheel to crank the engine over. If it carries on running, it could be a sticking spring that pulls the solenoid back in. This often leads to imminent break down of the starter motor. If when turning now, you just get a high pitched whine, like the motor is spinning but not engaging the engine, then obviously could be the spring not shooting out to the flywheel, or the gear is stripped of teeth (99% of the time the starter motor gear, not flywheel gearing). So to confirm, your engine is turning over though yes?

I test drove a 2.0 and 1.8 valver before deciding on the 1.8. The 9a seemed Soooo sluggish in comparison when stock, the kr admittedly had breather mods though. This was before I had done much research into both lumps though, so now wish I'd gone 9a due to the fact I can't do much other than forced induction or transplant for extra power. I still love it though, and even 6 weeks later, I keep sticking my head out the door to just look at the loveliness! They really are gorgeous cars!

As a above. Reason being that most aftermarket stereos have constant and ignition live feeds the other way round.

The red with cables coming out is you distributer cap. What makes you think starter motor? Can you hear it running on after releasing the key? Does it sound high pitched and not actually cranking the engine?

Alternator is better than mine. Mine is reading 13.4v on and off load, so I'm getting a replacement. I would try relay and ignition switch first if I was you though. Relay offered for a fiver! Bite his hand off! VW for an ignition switch a month ago was around £26 including VAT. Or you could jump in at the deep end for about £160 for a reconditioned alternator if you prefer, I know what I'd be doing first!

I'm interested also, but are you making the 70 or 55 litre types or both? Cheers!

Good shout with header tank! It's the original black one as well so worth changing to the newer blue one. I've heard them not releasing pressure, but I guess that it could be constantly venting too which could cause lower temps with the system not being pressurised fully.

There is a set on eBay ATM for around £260 + p&p.

No, original standard one as far as I can tell.

It does point to stat as far as I can tell tbh. Just strange that both were the same when testing, and were more likely lazy than completely shot as they did both close. Only did it last week too! Oh well, will try another new one. Will give the sender wire a swap round out of curiosity also though. Thanks for all the replies fellas, didn't know if I was having a brain fart and missing something!

Could be your thermostat's stuck open? My VR does exactly what you describe...

As said, I've changed the stat and whilst old one was out, I tested them both together in a pan of water on the hob. Both opened as they should, then closed when taken out and left to cool. Maybe worth changing sender, will give that a go first, but still takes a while for heaters to get warm anyways. (bearing in mind the foam is almost non existent now in channels from changing the matrix), but still doesn't seem quite right. Oh I've swapped out bypass valves for copper pipe too if that makes a difference?.

Hi chaps, have a problem which I'm not sure what else to try. My water temp never seems to get over 80 whilst driving. If sat at idle, it will get to 90-95 eventually, but never whilst rolling. Oil temps never get above 106 so think the pump is ok, and I've changed matrix, coolant, thermostat (did the boil test with both new and old one, and both operated correctly). I know it's a little chilly, but it takes quite a while to get to 80 too. Fan operates as it should somewhere in the region of 95 degs when at idle, but rarely notice it on after a drive so it's not constantly going or anything. Anything else I may have overlooked? Any help appreciated. Oh it's a KR, thanks guys.

I know of only 4 here including mine. A storm grey valver, a White valver, and a White G60. All the valvers including mine are members of the local forum, but never seen any others round these here parts. That was kinda the attraction for me tbh. Although a few handy local spares wouldn't go amiss!

It's a bit of a ballache, but not really difficult. Cover any electrics behind the centre console. I think that's how I cocked up my immobiliser by getting it wet when removing the old one. Get some sticky backed foam too. The vent flaps are covered in foam, blowers are not quite as effective any more, and I get occasional puffs of foam through the vents!

In my experience, dealer are always best for gaskets. Pattern parts never quite seal as well. If unavailable, tps, vws, etc etc........

Oil change yesterday, didn't get any pics as I was rushing to get back and pick my daughter up from school. Was planning on dropping the sump and cleaning it and the pickup out, but couldn't undo the 2 bolts up behind the gearbox bellhousing, dammit! Managed to loosen the subframe bolts with the airgun though, so changed the drivers wing today.

Before

During

After

Newer wing has a few scratches from storage, but much much better than the original. Trim is also back on it now, but the photo highlights how filthy the car is at the mo! Will deffo be giving it a full detail int the week, but it will have to be in stages whilst the missus is at work! Apparently the decorating work around the house should be taking priority! Lol

No there isn't a relief valve on pas system so no self bleed.

Yeah fair enough. Have you tried bleeding it just in case? Just take filler cap off and go full lock to full lock a couple of times with the engine running. Doubt it would be the cause for total failure that your experiencing but worth a pop I suppose?

Have the pipes kinked when you re-hung them? Have a look under, and see if they are twisted round each other or kinked as said. That's the first port of call anyway.