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seanl82

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Posts posted by seanl82


  1. I now have lukewarm heaters. Swapped the bypass out for some copper pipe, and the heaters now start getting warm at around 80/85 degs. Took a while to get there though, so I think it may be a combination of duff stat, and slightly blocked matrix. Will change the stat over next week with a coolant flush anyway, and hopefully that will sort it.


  2. I had a flywheel lightened by hotgolf, and can't recommend him highly enough. You will have to post it off to him, but I had it back to my door in 4 days. Very good turnaround. Mine was a golf3 gti 8v flywheel, and price was £69 including return delivery iirc. Was about 6 months ago.


  3. Fair enough. Thanks David. I did read about injectors a while back. I'm lucky in that I can get access to an almost fully kitted out workshop/garage. Will have it on the ramps when servicing so I can do everything including injector pattern tests etc under cover, which helps this time of year! (too poor for a garage myself!) do a search for the guide I saw on here as I've not done one before. Thanks again mate.


  4. Yeah I ran a hose through the matrix and it all seemed ok with no evidence of blockages. Gonna get some copper pipe later/tomorrow morning and try that. Water and oil temps rise as they should, up to temp in 5-8 minutes, but water temp seems to stick at 75/80. What does the rad fan take it's temp from as that comes on and switches off ok. Faulty temp sensor makes sense too with the rad fan coming on, but why 3 sensors, and which ones which? (assuming their for specific temps) May as well change the stat when I do the service next week too. Sorry for all the questions, just tryin to get my head round this lump!


  5. Thought I would resurrect this post, as others may have the same thing. My paint code in the boot and on the service book says LB5V. As the OP says, my service book also has a pencil amendment stating LC3U. Car in question is a 1990 KR. :thumbleft:


  6. Yeah gonna put some BG44 through it in the week, and gonna give it a good service with oil, filters, plug, leads, dizzy etc etc. Just flushed through the matrix and all seems fine with no apparent blockages. Bypass valves also seem clear. Even if they are stuck open as I can see daylight through them, that would mean the coolant is circulating round the matrix wouldn't it?. Bit stumped now tbh. Anyone got any other theories?? Thanks again guys, appreciate any help.


  7. Hi Gents, car in question is a 90 Kr I picked up last weekend. :dance: I absolutely adore this car, there are however a few small issues. On cold start, it sometimes takes a little gas, or a couple of cranks before it fires. Once running though everything is ok. Plan is to clean out WUR after doing searches and reading previous posts, but where is it/what does it look like?

     

    Second question is that normal running water temps don't rise above about 85. This is pretty constant though so it's swaying me away from the stat. Obviously with the cold weather, does this sound about right? In addition, oil temps are pretty good - between 90 & 100 depending on driving conditions and style. Also my heaters don't get even slightly warm! (not nice in this weather!) top and bottom rad hoses warm, as are the pipes after the bypass valves. Plan is to try and flush through the matrix to clear any possible blockages, just keep getting rained off at the moment! Is this likely to be connected?

     

    Third and last question, my fuel economy is seriously low. I've come from a golf3 gti 8v, so I may be a little more "spirited" in my driving atm!, but my economy is well under 20 mpg according to the mfa. Dont get me wrong though, I'm certainly not driving like a mad man! Again could this be related to the above 2, (cold map/constant choke type thing???) or is this more likely to be unrelated?

     

    Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks guys!


  8. +1 on the above 2 posts. To add to what I put, I think they are classier and far more understated than the equivalent BMW/Audi/Merc, and you get far more for your money. I found insurance pretty good tbh, I'd only been driving a year att and was fully comp for just over £800. Economy was the only thing I can fault tbh


  9. Yeah, I forgot to add drivshafts and cv joints and boots too. He was gonna give me a passenger door and boot that he had as well but they are different colours and I felt a bit guilty as he had already dropped his asking price quite a lot so I said not to worry. :o


  10. To follow on from what I posted in the newbie section, here is my first Corrado.

    Should be picking it up tomorrow once tax is sorted, and I cant wait to get stuck in!

    1990 KR in Dark Burgandy Pearl, 157k, FSH until 128k then owner serviced there after, Borbet C's with excellent tyres, shortshifter, Lowering springs (not sure which or how low as no evidence), SS backbox (not a great one and couldnt see any markings as to which one it is), Black interior but original seats, heat wrapped exhaust Manni, Vibratech front engine mount, drilled grooved disks with green stuff pads all round, uprated light loom, and a few spares like a replacement wing (dent was knocked out on drivers side causing paint to crack and flake), gasket set, 50mm inlet manni, and a couple of sensors, oh and a tyre for good measure! Needs a bit of cosmetic work as there is a bit of paint fade and small areas of lacquer peel, and also a couple of small scuffs but these should polish out. Immediate plans are just to give it a good service for peace of mind, remove rub strips and the tint on the rear windows, a good clean, clay, polish and wax, bung on a bonnet bra, and some laminex everywhere. Anyway, will stick a couple of pre collection pics up later when I figure how to upload em, comments, advice, suggestions welcome :cool:


  11. If you have a little more in your budget, I would recommend the mk2 saab 9-3. Completely standalone from GM when they made them so not based on anything vauxhall. I had a 1.8t vector sport on an 03 plate, and sorry if I'm being blasphemous (however you spell it!) but it was my favourite car!


  12. Give the throttle body a good clean out, and check your breather hoses. (Top of rocker cover down to bottom of the block). They get gunked up, and become brittle and crack. Top breather should be stiff (ish). If it feels spongy, replace it anyway as when you let off the throttle it collapses and starves the engine, and that causes cutting out issues. Also check vac lines for leaks. Other than that, check your timing. Hope this helps mate. :thumbleft:


  13. Been a while, but finally got there! Paid a deposit for a kr today, gotta pick it up monday though as its off the road and I needed to tax it, but the bloody insurance company are closed until Monday! Anyway, its an 89 kr as mentioned in Dark Burgandy Pearl, 157k with service history up to 128k, then owner serviced there after. On a set of Borbet C's with v. good tread, heat wrapped 4 branch manni, all electrics work, short shifter, lowering springs, (not sure which ones or how much lower it is than stock though as theres nothing in the receipts to say), solid front engine mount, recon gearbox in 07, spare gaskets, wing, 50mm inlet manni, sensors etc etc etc. Bolster is ripped but otherwise interior is mint, with black dash, pillars, door cards and headlining so much nicer than the grey imo. Exterior needs a little tlc but its solid so thats the main point. A few areas of lacquer peel, and some scratches and scuffs here and there, but nothing too big or major. Really good price though, so very pleased and I cant wait to pick it up! Have a few things in mind to get started with, but nothing too vast atm with xmas pretty much taking everything else of my very little disposable income. Gonna give it a good service for my own piece of mind as a first step though, and maybe some laminex in places and a bra to cover some of the lacquer peel on the bonnet for the time being.


  14. Cheers mate. Gonna go and have a look next week, just waiting on mine to go (next w.end fingers crossed) and see where I stand. Car is currently SORN'd so cant really take it for a drive to get up to temp. I would have thought a dodgy/old fuel filter would have caused issues from cold start too though. The pressure pump your talking about (under the car), is that the inline pump? Dont think they are too expensive so may be worth a punt. Gonna go over it with a fine tooth comb anyway. Thanks again.


  15. Hi Gents, been on here a few months without a C, but finally decided to take the plunge and get looking at a few. I've decided a 1.8 kr is the way ahead for me, and I'm really tempted by one not too far away. I've only spoken to the seller on the phone, and he has told me of a warm start issue. I did a search but couldnt find any that were too similar, and there were lots of suggestions. I don't know much about the kr (only really been into vag/car mechanics for a year), but I know my way around a 2.0 8v AGG from a golf 3 ok. :o so please go easy!

    Anyway, the guy said on warm start, it fires on 1 cylinder, then 2, then 3, then 4. He has changed the usual coil, leads, rotor arm and dizzy, plugs, battery and has changed the metering head and ignition switch as well. He said the fuel pump sounds a bit noisy so its probably that, but after reading through other threads, it could be anything from injectors, to HG. The car is great by the sound of it, and seller seems very genuine and a big VW addict! so I am tempted but dont want to be stung. Has anyone had this problem, or can advise a probable cause. I do have a spare set of injectors from an AGG but not sure if they would fit? and dont really wanna spend hundreds trying to sort it out straight after buying.

     

    Thanks fellas, Sean.


  16. Fair enough mate. Crane hire is pretty cheap though. I was lucky as my old dear works for Brandon Tool Hire so it cost me about £3.50 from Thursday til Tueday. :smug: Understand about the storing of the VR though what with laws on tax/MOT/Insurance etc, unless you know someone with a drive. Its just stripping it all down and taking what you need, then selling a few bits to make some money back, and getting one of those scrap metal collection companies that advertise in the local paper to collect the chassis. May only get a tenner for the chassis but its out of the way then.


  17. You can buy a donor golf vr spare/repair for about £200 if you look around. Its not that big a job tbh, and you will have absolutely everything you need for the transplant there. You will have it done for £300 including car, crane, fluids etc and shouldnt take any longer than a weekend. If you can afford to get it done for you then fair enough, but I'd rather diy it and get lots of satisfaction from it, and also spend the saving on some nice rims or something.


  18. Cheers guys, good vid that. May have to do some travelling to find a decent one but I suppose that adds to the fun. Been reading up on here with potential problems that can occur, and I like to think I'm a reasonable diy enthusiast, so may be able to do most of the niggly problems that are common. Obviously as long as it has a solid base and doesnt require welding then I'll be happy enough. And obviously as mentioned, those little problems are ammunition when haggling!


  19. Cheers fellas. Can't afford 4k ATM I'm afraid. Sounds a proper good un though. I really want a vr, problem is there are precious few down here to check out and test drive with any other lump in as well. Scrimping together as much as possible to see what I can get. Mot expires on the daily hack mid nov, so will break that I think to add to the fund. Hopefully prices will be better in the lead up to Xmas as well. Fingers crossed anyway.

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