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Where to get my Head Flowed??????? Help Please?

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Hi All,

 

Head gasket on the way out on my valver, so thought If the head has to come off, might as well flow it :) I used to have a flowed head on my old green valver golf! went like stink, used to keep up with Phat's old OJ Mk2 VR!!!!

 

So............

 

Can anyone recommend anyone, good/bad experiences???? Prices, Spose it be wishful thinking if there were anyone in the north east who does it?

 

Also if I change the downpipe to a 8V GTI one, will my motor breathe better????

 

Cheers All

Steve

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Im currently doin my own 1! its relativly easy.

Not much to be gained by fitting 8v downpipe but it is well worth buying a stainless 4branch

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portformance in warrington he is shit hot i had a head from tsr and it was shit so took it to him and he got 30bhp out of it

tel- 01925724278

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Im currently doin my own 1! its relativly easy.

Flusted. Does this mean you will be getting more than 162 BHP soon?? We seem to have very similar spec cars. I did my head myself in the summer. I read a book before doing it, which helped me decide how far to go with it. Can't remember what it was called, but if anyone wants to know I'll find out. Also I found some very usefull cross section pics on vortex, which showed where the water ways are.

What DOES flowing the head involve, and how does it benefit the engine?

Think of the engine as a pump, basically you are trying to increase its capability to flow gas through it, by increasing the size of ports and smoothing the path the gas must follow. From this, you would think, biggest is best, but you need to keep the gas flowing at a high speed to keep the power up. At low revs the gas flows slower, therefore ideally you need small ports at low revs, then big ports at high revs otherwise torque at low revs will suffer. It is a complicated process to get right, and unless you can vary the port sizes, it is a compromise. The 16v suffers from flatness at low revs, so you don't want to open the ports out very much on a road car.

Hope that makes a little more sense.

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It's not a stupid question at all, Louie... 8) Quite a few people think they know what it is and what it does, and actually haven't got a clue... :roll: The only stupid question is the one you don't ask... 8)

 

Porting the head means making the airways into and out of the valves larger so that the gasses can get into and then out of the cylinders easier, freeing up more power. You can also port the throttle body, supercharger inlet manifolds and exhaust manifold to ease the gasses journey even more and free up a little more power... As Phil says though, it's not a simple case of "bigger is better", so it's a little more involved than that for a cylinder head... :?

NOTE: This does not CREATE more power, it just releases the potential the engine already has which has been lost due to the mass manufacturing methods employed when the engine components were made... ;)

 

Flowing (actually GAS flowing) means that the airways have certain parts removed, polished, or roughened up to create as smooth an airflow into/out of the cylinders as possible which should allow more gasses to flow through the engine giving more power. To do this PROPERLY needs some very expensive kit which blows smoke through the item to show up the bad points which need more work on them, however a good job can be made by hand if you know roughly what you are doing.

NOTE: You should not fully polish the inlet side of the head as an engine will run better with a slight roughness in the air passage into the cylinders as this causes a "swirl" to the gases entering the engine which allows the fuel and air to mix properly on their way into the cylinder and therefore burn better and more efficiently... 8)

 

Example: A "polished and ported" head would be one which has had the airways enlarged and then polished up in places to aid the airflow into/out of the cylinders... 8)

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Hope that makes a little more sense.

Cheers Phil. (And Henny) Makes perfect sense mate.

But by opening the ports out to gain more power, are you not just moving whats already available further up the rev range?

 

My Corrado's pretty gutless below 4000 rpm anyway. So apart from smoothing out of the airways to improve how the gas moves, would there be any point in opening up the ports on a 1.8 ?

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But by opening the ports out to gain more power, are you not just moving whats already available further up the rev range?

 

Absolutely, you may end up with a higher peak BHP figure at say 6500RPM, but at the cost of low revs tractability, great on a race track, not necessarily great for everyday driving. If you want a more powerfull road car, what about a 9A or 6A 2.0 16v bottom end. 9A is VW, fitted to Passats and Corrado's, mine has this. 6A is the Audi version. Or consider upgrading to a VR6 or G60, but if like you want to keep your car, then I'd go for a 2.0.

Where is Sunny Darlo?? If your near Essex, maybe we could meet, then you could see how mine goes, to decide if its worth doing.

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I've read that people put 2.0 bottom ends on 1.8's (and vice versa I think)

But to be perfectly honest, I don't think my pockets are deep enough at the minute to cover it.

 

I would like a bit more performance out of my motor (who wouldn't?) but I think improvments will come from getting it running as it should, rather than modding it to be a better standard than... er.. standard. :wink:

 

Anyway, I've Hijacked Beeftech's thread a bit here. Sorry mate.

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But to be perfectly honest, I don't think my pockets are deep enough at the minute to cover it.

 

Maybe your pockets are deep enough, but your arms are too short :wink: :lol:

 

Definately worth making sure its set up correctly, in standard form its not a slow car.

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Anyway, I've Hijacked Beeftech's thread a bit here. Sorry mate.

 

Aye! Stop It! :) Anyone Had any work done at Northallerton Engineering???

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Im currently doin my own 1! its relativly easy.

Flusted. Does this mean you will be getting more than 162 BHP soon?? We seem to have very similar spec cars. I did my head myself in the summer. I read a book before doing it, which helped me decide how far to go with it. Can't remember what it was called, but if anyone wants to know I'll find out. Also I found some very usefull cross section pics on vortex, which showed where the water ways are.

 

Yeah,im guna try for a bit more with the 1.8 bottom end as theres no 2l near me :cry: Ive mirror polished inside a 50mm manifold (as only air passes through that not fuelair mix) and am currently doin the head.

Its worth noting that when the exhaust ports are mirror polished it prevents carbon which can cause pinking so you can get away with more timing advance.

Im not guna open up the ports on mine,just smooth the access as theres quite a few bumps and dips in the standard casting.

 

If anyone is guna do there own,check this out:

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm

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Flusted, what did you use to polish the inside of the manifold? Mine is all finished in 120 Grit at the moment, this was the finest small flapwheel I could obtain.

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hi you only need to polish the exhaust side, this is to prevent carbon from sticking to it. the inlet side simply needs to be smooth so there is no restrictions to the air flow. go to http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm there is a step by step guide and pictures and you can by a kit of them to complete the work but i found it cheaper to go elsewhere

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Wet and dry and sore fingers :lol:

 

know what you mean, knuckles really suffer on the inlets :D

 

 

If anyone is interested i'll have a spare polished valver head by next weekend, it's coming off a 9a.... so i'll be deciding then which (kr/ 9a) i wish to keep for the 9a bottom.

 

I'll be sticking it on here once it's tidy, and then shifting to ebay, price will be dependent on condition when i get good look at it....

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hi you only need to polish the exhaust side, this is to prevent carbon from sticking to it. the inlet side simply needs to be smooth so there is no restrictions to the air flow. go to http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm there is a step by step guide and pictures and you can by a kit of them to complete the work but i found it cheaper to go elsewhere

 

Im mirror polishing the inside of the inlet manifold cos only air passes through it not fuel/air mix. You need it slightly rougher in the head so the mix doesnt seperate causing the fuel to drop out of the air.

 

I posted that link first :p

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I did my VR6 one myself. I "gasket matched it". whcih basically means putting the inlet and exhaust gaskets on the bare head and drawing on the face of the head with a permantent marker on the area of head visibal inside the gasket holes. when you remove the gaskets you're left with a load of balck areas around each port. the idea is to remove that much material.

 

I used a die grinder with a burr in it, running off my compressor. it tool me about a week of nights to do it. After reading a few hints and tips on it I decided to take their advice and concentrate on the valve seat area. you wouln'dt belive how much material you can remove. just feel with your fingers and you can feel where the bumps are and what needs to be removed. on the VR head the ports narrow down quite considerably where they bend around the head olt holes. there's lods of material you can remove in that area to straighten out the port.

 

Once you have the shape right you ccan then move onto sanding drums to smooth out the rough finish the burrs leave. don't go too mad though, as a bit of rough is actually better for the intake air, if it's too smooth you'll get fuel drop out, where it will stick to the port walls as there won't be enough tubulence in the port to kee if mixed.

 

When I got it on the car, the difference was noticable right away. it was REALLY smooth, but above 4000rpm it was an animal and really let the cams do their job, pulled strong as hell.

 

195bhp at 5000rpm and 200lbs/ft at 3500rpm can't be bad (couldn't take it any further as the car wouldn't sit still on the rollers).

 

In your case, just get a 2.0 ABF lump and bin that k-jet sh1te instead of wasting any money on it. harsh but true....

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Hi All,

 

Head gasket on the way out on my valver, so thought If the head has to come off, might as well flow it :) I used to have a flowed head on my old green valver golf! went like stink, used to keep up with Phat's old OJ Mk2 VR!!!!

 

So............

 

Can anyone recommend anyone, good/bad experiences???? Prices, Spose it be wishful thinking if there were anyone in the north east who does it?

 

Also if I change the downpipe to a 8V GTI one, will my motor breathe better????

 

Cheers All

 

 

Give this guy a phone he is in oxford

Dave on 01869811132 very good... He just does cylinder heads

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A story from way back...... In 96 I did a weeks work placement at TSR. A fella called Dave pitched up in a Metro van to collect a load of heads. He said he had to return to Oxford when I asked where he was from. I only had a brief conversation with him. He did say that he did heads for a number of other VW tuners. Now I wonder?............

 

Gavin

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A story from way back...... In 96 I did a weeks work placement at TSR. A fella called Dave pitched up in a Metro van to collect a load of heads. He said he had to return to Oxford when I asked where he was from. I only had a brief conversation with him. He did say that he did heads for a number of other VW tuners. Now I wonder?............

 

Maybe the same guy I met him at AMD some time this year. Seemed to know what he was talking about He quoted me just under 500quid big valve head + springs for my golf vr6. "JUST POP IN SOME CAMS" he said

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have a word with RacePowerMotorsport down in Dartford... They do gasflowing and head work and have a superb reputation... 8)

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