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redcorrado

car is hesitant

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Just had the service on my 2.0 16v

car feeling hesitant ,almost feels like just before a g60 cuts in except mines not got one..

hoping it would cure the problem ,but no its still the same.

Just put some injection cleaner in to see if it helps ,which made me think would new injectors help ?

What sort of price do these things cost ?

 

any help would be apprecative.

cheers mark

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If you just had a service and the car isn't running right, get it back there to find out what they changed.

 

Can you qualify what you mean about the G60? A G60 doesn't just cut in, they are always producing boost except on part throttle most of it is recirculated back through the charger.

 

I very much doubt it is injectors.

Gavin

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well they did the usual oil and filter plugs air and fuel filter.

 

The car wasnt running right before the service so its not helped at all.Oh and she had 180,000 miles on the clock.

 

the g60 thing was when i had a rallye last year pitstop blocked the boost return and it dumped boost ,but im sure it was slightly hesitant before the boost cut in if you know what i mean lol.

 

anyhow the corrado seems more hesitant and suddenly takes off

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I get what you mean now, there was a bit of Lag between putting your foot dwon and the car going for it.

 

When it takes off, have the revs climbed to about 4000?

 

I wonder if the vacuum pipe to the ECU is damaged? Or if there is one, I cannot remember on a 9A 100%.

 

Gavin

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When it takes off, have the revs climbed to about 4000?

 

no sure will check that

 

I wonder if the vacuum pipe to the ECU is damaged? Or if there is one, I cannot remember on a 9A 100%.

 

where would i need to look in the engine bay for it

 

Gavin

 

for some reason it feels like a fuel related problem ,but not sure what to try.

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hmm yea i though tabout that ,but wouldnt it be missing rather than hesitant,

But i am open to ideas .ps whats the best place to get some decent leads,

to rule it out.?

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If the pipe is damaged or missing the ECU won't know what the load on the engine is and can't issue teh sparks accordingly.

 

Big throttle openings at low revs are the hardest for it to cope with in my experience. If you try to accelerate with a tiny bit if throttle it can usually handle that.

 

Once the revs climb to about 4k it seems to have less effect for some reason.

 

As they have changed the air filter, check the pipework is on straight and not cockeyed and also that there are no airleaks.

 

A set of leads may help but it could also be a biggish un-necessary expense. I would look for cheaper fixes first(Yorkshire :roll: ).

 

Rotor arm and Cap in good nick and fitted correctly and the carbon contact in the middle free to move.

 

gavin

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I would check all vaccum hoses for leaks or being trapped causing them to block. You could also clean all electrical connections, this is quick easy and practically free, except for some contact cleaner, a high resistance will cause an incorrect signal to the ecu. Also you should check all sensors i.e. temp, lambda etc are working correctly.

After doing the checks for the general condition of everything, I would look into making sure it is set up correctly.

 

Check the ignition timing with a strobe light, be very carefull to make sure you find the correct mark on the flywheel, it will be 6 degrees before top dead centre. You can also set up the fuel mixture on the metering head using a multimeter. Its a while since I have done this, but you have to connect an ammeter inline with the electrical connection on the side of the metering head, the value you get should fluctuate between a definate range, if its not within the correct range you need to make a simple adjustment. I set mine up this way and it saled through the emmisions test at the mot and with a few mods produces good power.

 

You will need a decent manual to do this properly, particularly the setting on the metering head.

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I think you need to start from scratch.

First check is the timing of the engine. I want to rule out a crank pulley failure.

 

Another thing to check is the closed throttle microswitch on the Throttle Body. This tells the ECU whenthe throttle is closed, obviously. If the switch fails the ECU won't advance the timing which will prevent the engine from accelerating.

 

Verify and clean all the engine earths. You also need to check the output of the lambda probe. You can do this with a digital voltmeter if you can get one. Probe the signal wire and the voltage should be staedy for a while and climd slowly before appearing to become erratic but not going much over a volt.

 

Gavin

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just had the engine checked with a code reader and the knock sensor is faulty apparantly.

Can anyone confirm that there is only 1 knock sensor on this engine 1993 2.0 16v 9a

Also what is the correct torque settings for this part ,cheers guys ,will let you know the outcome.

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redcorrado - have you had worse than usual fuel economy?

 

edit -

[stupid question]oh and would a knocking noise from start that disappears after a few seconds indicate a faulty knock sensor[/stupid question]

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I have a 2ltr 16v 9a with exactly the same problem!!

tried all sorts to clear it:

 

oil + filter change

fuel filter change

new ht leads

new plugs

new dizzy cap

new rotor arm

new air filter

 

all with no joy!

 

gonna try all the electrical stuff posted above!

if u ge it sorted let me know coz mine is driving me nuts!!

 

stupid question... where is the ecu located on the corrado?

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the ecu is next to the wiper motor i think,ive had my problem for 5 weeks ,so far tried

injection cleaner

a replacemet fuel metering unit of a written off corrado

a new fuel pump large one ( havent done the in tank one yet)

fuel filter

plugs

rotar arm

distributer cap

air filter

 

new leads are on there way

 

so is a new knock sensor ( this is what i really think it is )as ive been looking over various websites over the past few weeks getting info plus mine was read with a code reader and came up faulty.

i will post all my results when i get them.

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just had the engine checked with a code reader and the knock sensor is faulty apparantly.

Can anyone confirm that there is only 1 knock sensor on this engine 1993 2.0 16v 9a

Also what is the correct torque settings for this part ,cheers guys ,will let you know the outcome.

 

There are two knock sensors on the 9A, they are bolted to the front of the block, 1 between no. 1 & 2 cylinders, the other between 3 & 4. They are approx 15mm dia with a bolt going through the middle and 1 chunky cable coming from each.

 

What code reader did you use?

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2 knock sensors,are you sure as on etka i can only see 1 .do they have the same part number.?

it was my local garage who did the code reading ,so dont know what make it was.

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Well mine is a K reg 1993 2.0 16v with a 9A and it definately has 2. I'd imagine they would have the same part number. Before replacing them, i'd remove them and give them a good clean up, I'd clean the sensors, their connections (3 pin plugs IIRC) and the block where they bolt on. When re-fitting make sure you tighten them to the correct torque, as apparently this affects their operation. Have a look under your bonnet they are very easy to locate. They are black plastic with a black cable.

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i just tried to order 2 from my vw garage and they said sorry it only has one ,so i rang my other vw dealer who said the same thing.

how annoying,i can only see one in etka so it must be that they are looking at.

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Here we are :) - I think I found one (heres-one-surely.jpg)

Where's the other one then?

 

also, whereabouts is this cold start blue temp sender?

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Nope thats not it, thats an engine bay air temp sender.

 

Look on the block, lower half probably rusty part of engine where the arrows are pointing.

 

The yellow line I have drawn might be one of the cables, but hard to tell.

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