mrbeige 0 Posted July 4, 2005 Right guys, I need your help again! Changed my cylinder head on Saturday for a polished/ported version, replaced all gaskets etc and did oil change and obviously replaced coolant. I did 250miles yesterday, mostly motorway driving at around 80-90mph, and my water temp is now probably about 5 degrees higher than it was, but my oil temp now rises to 130degC! :shock: It never really got over 120degC before, and there are little bits floating around in the coolant expansion tank. I didn't flush the coolant system (probably should have done) Why is it running hotter? Should I be worried? :? By the way, it goes better! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted July 4, 2005 So do you not think that maybe the new found 'go' and higher temps are related? :lol: When you have carried out a major operation like a head replacement I would be inclined to let things settle before deciding what is the new norm. 130 is certainly getting to the top of what I'd expect for road car temps. Which engine are we talking about? Is it the same sensors that are connected, are all the earths in good condition? Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted July 4, 2005 have you had the car properly set up afterwards? your timing could be a little too retarded, hence increacing engine temp as it will be working harder, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted July 4, 2005 Oh yeah running weak causes a hot burn too. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted July 4, 2005 Which engine are we talking about? Is it the same sensors that are connected, are all the earths in good condition? 2.0l 16v and all the original sensors are connected...:? have you had the car properly set up afterwards? your timing could be a little too retarded, hence increacing engine temp as it will be working harder, Not been set up properly yet, getting that done on Saturday hopefully. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted July 4, 2005 well just take it easy til then,, i expect its timing as mantioned,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted July 4, 2005 Should I flush the coolant system? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted July 4, 2005 cant hurt to do it, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted July 4, 2005 Going to go and buy a timing gun from Halfrauds this evening and time it up! Any idea how much advance I should be running? And also do I just use the crank timing mark, or is there somewhere else in the engine that gives me a way to set the degrees accurately? Not done it before, soneed a bit of advice (as per usual!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted July 4, 2005 You need to disconnect the red/black wire near the coil,then time it up.Standard is 6 degrees but im running 9 without pinking as you can get away with more with a flowed head. I reckon your temp prob is an airlock cos i had same prob.let car get up to temp then undo header tank cap slightly,this releases the air Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted July 5, 2005 You need to disconnect the red/black wire near the coil,then time it up.Standard is 6 degrees but im running 9 without pinking as you can get away with more with a flowed head. I reckon your temp prob is an airlock cos i had same prob.let car get up to temp then undo header tank cap slightly,this releases the air How do you know where 6 degrees is? Red black wire? Do you need to disconnect this to time it up? Could you do me a picture of were this wire is? Cheers dude! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted July 5, 2005 The red/black on an 1800 is right by the coil on the bulkhead behind the engine. The timing is at 6 degrees when the mark on the crank pulley is inline with the arrow on the timing belt cover. This can be difficult to see so paint both in white to help. You can also check through the access hole on the top of the gearbox. Personally I have never had any success with that method and alsway use teh crank pulley. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted July 5, 2005 The red/black on an 1800 is right by the coil on the bulkhead behind the engine. Does this method apply to a 2.0l 16v (9a)? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted July 5, 2005 Not 100% dude, It might need hooking into VAG COM to put it in set up mode. This engine was one of the first to use this kind of technology in the VW range. As it was only fitted to small numbers of cars there isn't much known about it. Haynes don't produce a manual covering this engine. The only one around is the factory workshop manual. I bought one off ebay last year and then sold it again. I think I have a scan of it on the computer here at work. I'll have a look for it now and see what it says. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted July 5, 2005 I think I have a scan of it on the computer here at work. I'll have a look for it now and see what it says. Cheers dude Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted July 5, 2005 For a 9A it is 6 deg before tdc at 2250rpm IIRC. I can double check that for you, but not till tomorrow. As far as I remember there is nothing to disconnect either, again I can check. You must make sure you use the correct timing mark on the flywheel, it is easily mixed up with the tdc (0 deg) mark. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites