The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Plugs is plugs really, so long as they're the right heat range. I've used those /\ with out of the packet gaps with no issues @ 15psi on stock coil pack.

 

BKR&E, TT225, Bosch F5DPOR (Audi 5 cyl turbo S2, 20V UR Quattro etc), NGK R5671A-7 and NGK BKR7EIX are all great plugs for VRTs and S/Cs, so take your pick :D

[coullstar 0]

Looks likes I'll need a new turbo so Im weighing up the options. Most folk seem to use a GT30 or 35. I quite like the way it drive at the moment with boost starting around 3500 and full around 4000. Slightly earlier would be better though.

 

Where is best to get Turbo's from, GT3, Schimmel, CR ect and is there any good alternatives to Garrett, preferrably cheaper :lol: ?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Holset HX35

[VR6Joni 0]

I'd like to see a Holset HE turbo tried :D For me they should produce quite a wide torque curve.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah and they're quite cheap at ~£500 ish brand new!

 

http://www.g-s-racing.com/products.html

[coullstar 0]

Well Ive sold my RH wheels and got some money back from insurance for the green one so Ive just bitten the bullet and ordered a GT3582R. It should just bolt straight up to existing set up, if I break this one I will cry :pale:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You'll be fine with the GT3582. Been running mine daily for over 3 years and it's a tank..... touches wood! It's a great turbo 8)

 

Was your old one water cooled? If not, you will need to sort out some plumbing for the 35R as that is water cooled.

[coullstar 0]

You'll be fine with the GT3582. Been running mine daily for over 3 years and it's a tank..... touches wood! It's a great turbo 8)

 

Was your old one water cooled? If not, you will need to sort out some plumbing for the 35R as that is water cooled.

 

It wasnt no, oil only. Whats the best set up?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Not rubber!

 

I don't know how much of this you can see close up, but I use braided PTFE lines in JIC -6 size for the water lines, and hardline -4 for the oil, and hardline -10 for the oil drain.

 

I binned the original top hose from the head because the water splitter for the old throttle body coolant lines is plastic and just ruptures. I remade the top hose out of high temp, thick walled silicon and used this hose joiner with an M14 to -6 fitting to make a water outlet - http://www.revotec.com/details.asp?ID=267

 

All the hardline, fittings, braided lines etc etc came from here and I warn you now, it's expensive stuff.....but by far the best - www.speedflow.co.uk

[lilfuzzer 1]

Holset HX35

 

 

There was one on edition if I remember correcty bit too late though I think :?

[The_Dude 0]

Holset HX35

 

 

There was one on edition if I remember correcty bit too late though I think :?

 

I'm pretty sure the one you're thinking of was an HX83 and also humongous.

[coullstar 0]

Not rubber!

 

I don't know how much of this you can see close up, but I use braided PTFE lines in JIC -6 size for the water lines, and hardline -4 for the oil, and hardline -10 for the oil drain.

 

I binned the original top hose from the head because the water splitter for the old throttle body coolant lines is plastic and just ruptures. I remade the top hose out of high temp, thick walled silicon and used this hose joiner with an M14 to -6 fitting to make a water outlet - http://www.revotec.com/details.asp?ID=267

 

All the hardline, fittings, braided lines etc etc came from here and I warn you now, it's expensive stuff.....but by far the best - http://www.speedflow.co.uk

 

Ok I think I see whats required. I'll have to get another oil feed line made up unless I can get a cross over fitting to meet the restrictor thread. With the coolant system am I right in saying that you T into the reservior hose, then split this in two with a line going to either side? How does the water then flow as it that not a closed loop? Any better photos?

Also if you dont mind could you list what you bought as Im hoping to get everything back in and running for the ScottishVag meet on 6th June.

 

Got the turbo of tonight, theres a fair bit of play in the shaft but no real sign of oil in the housing.

[coullstar 0]

Im going to be asking quite a few questions over the next couple of weeks I can see.

 

My oil feed line has a JIC fitting and the restrictor is AN. I believe they will make up but what sort of pressures do the oil feed lines run at and is this safe to have them made up?

 

Also managed to find this water fitting kit - does this seem ok? http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog/pr ... 8-gt15gt35

Obviously still need to get some other bits.

[StormchargedVR6 0]

Im going to be asking quite a few questions over the next couple of weeks I can see.

 

My oil feed line has a JIC fitting and the restrictor is AN. I believe they will make up but what sort of pressures do the oil feed lines run at and is this safe to have them made up?

 

Also managed to find this water fitting kit - does this seem ok? http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog/pr ... 8-gt15gt35

Obviously still need to get some other bits.

 

This is the best place for Turbo goodies http://www.atpturbo.com/ :) I always used them

[lilfuzzer 1]

Holset HX35

 

 

There was one on edition if I remember correcty bit too late though I think :?

 

I'm pretty sure the one you're thinking of was an HX83 and also humongous.[/quote:26j7feqd]

 

 

My bad could remember exactly

[coullstar 0]

 

This is the best place for Turbo goodies http://www.atpturbo.com/ :) I always used them

 

Cheers, got the ducts the other day, thanks. What were they like for delivery?

[coullstar 0]

Ok Ive found a pic of your set up Kev (can you tell Im getting no work done).

 

So far I see the list required for cooling as:

 

1. Banjo kit with NPT female thread.

2. 90deg NPT to 6AN fittings

3. 2 x braided hoses with 6AN fittings.

4. Y - diverter block

6. hose to coolant T in.

7. T in to coolant system.

 

Is that it?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

With the coolant system am I right in saying that you T into the reservior hose, then split this in two with a line going to either side? How does the water then flow as it that not a closed loop? Any better photos?

Also if you dont mind could you list what you bought as Im hoping to get everything back in and running for the ScottishVag meet on 6th June.

 

Got the turbo of tonight, theres a fair bit of play in the shaft but no real sign of oil in the housing.

 

I'll sort some better photos and a list out later.

 

If you use the existing throttle body coolant line circuit, it will work fine. That's already T'd off in the right places as standard.

 

If you find lot of oil in the scroll and intercooler, your turbo is goosed. If yours is smokey at idle etc and the whine has increased, it could be the hot side that's on it's way out. The T series is ancient. The 35R is a nice upgrade for you.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

LOL, you typed that as I was replying :D

 

OK, here's what I used on mine.

 

2 x 14mm Banjo - http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=GTBB

 

2 x 1/4 NPT to -6 - http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-6-jic-t ... -798-p.asp

 

2 x Banjo bolt and crush washer set - http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=GTBB

 

2 x Female to male - 6 extension (to get the water lines above the heatshield) - http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-06-exte ... 1242-p.asp

 

2 x 90 deg -6 JIC to 200 series - http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-6-alumi ... d-65-p.asp

 

A few hose seperators - http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/916-hose ... 1114-p.asp

 

A meter or so of this - http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-06-tefl ... 1073-p.asp

 

For the head to matrix T off, I used that fitting from Revotec and a -6 fitting and Dowty washer from Speedflow. For the T off to the expanstion tank, I used a straight -6 to -4 fitting and a few -4 barbed ends for the remaining lengths of rubber hose.

 

For the custom head to matrix hose, I measured up the lengths and angles and picked the right parts from siliconhoses.com. I think the ID was 38mm IIRC, and I used 4 or 5 ply IIRC, and coolant grade stuff. Silicon is much, much tougher and handles the radiant heat a lot better. I had no end of trouble with rubber water and oil lines rupturing. All these proper fittings and lines will ensure 1000s of trouble and leak free turbo fun 8)

 

The other hoses are far enough away from the turbo to not be a problem.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

And don't forget the UK based company that import that 3" cat I showed you, also sell a lot of this stuff, but don't list it all yet. They're a main importer of ATP stuff. http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/produc ... t=0&page=2

[coullstar 0]

Thanks for that, Ive ordered the Turbo from them. Some other photos would be handy.

 

Below is my current set up. Will I not just need to T into the area circled? Where does the head to matrix hoses figure in that you have mentioned? Sorry for all the questions but its a steep learning curve for me at the moment but Im enjoying it even if the bank balance isnt.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah the circled area is the water return, which you can tap into no probs.

 

The water supply comes from the head to matrix hose T off.

 

I'll get some more pics up later and it will make more sense!

 

It is a steep learning curve, but it's worth it with turbos :D

[poll250 0]

Bit OT, but will this filter be ok:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Apiro-DYNAMIQUE-S ... 5192cf2ce8

 

No room for my BMC anymore I dont think! :(

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If it's going down in the inner wing, that's all you can use really. Defo no room for a BMC I'm afraid!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Do these pics help explain it a bit better?

 

With the silicon / rubber water hoses, I've found the OE spring clamps and / or decent constant torque jubilees are more reliable than regular jubilee clamps.