VR6 coolant replacement

[gavkt 0]

I want to replace the coolent on my VR6, as I don't think it's ever been changed before.

I was going to remove the bottom hose from the radiater to let it drain, and then re connect the hose and reffill.

However I have been told that a couple of the hoses are mounted higher than the expansion tank and therefore there's a likely chance of air locks in the system.

 

I was therefore recommended to have a dealer replace the coolent. who would put it on some kind of vacum machine which would then stop the air locks from occuring.

 

Is this true? Has anyone replaced their coolent in there VR6 before.

Can anyone help....please.

[VR6 0]

Refill from the radiator top hose, not the expansion tank.

 

The coolant will rise up back into the expansion tank. Then run it and top up from the expansion tank as required.

[gavkt 0]

Will this eliminate any possibility of air locks?

Is there anything else to look out for, bit nervous about doing this as i've been told if i get it wrong it will blow a gasket pretty soon, and i need the car in two weeks to do 3000 miles for the Canonball 8000!

[VR6 0]

Yep - should do. It's what a dealer would do if you took it to them (I assume, as it's the proven method).

[andy 0]

Changed mine about three days ago, removed the drain plug in the pipe that runs across the front of the engine. Set the heater controls to full heat. Filled it up again via the expansion tank, slowly after flushing it through. No airlocks. 20 min job max. Only use genuine G12+ coolant.

[DelMonty 0]

removed the drain plug in the pipe that runs across the front of the engine

 

Tried looking for this (on a VR), couldn't find it, would it be possible to supply a pic of its location?

[lukeage 0]

Here you go - to get at it best, jack up the car, crawl under from the front (drivers side). and look directly up:

[DelMonty 0]

Thanks, that's great ;)

[lukeage 0]

No worries - make sure you fill via the top hose though and keep your eyes shielded when you take off the drain plug (it don't come out in a single pour it splashes off everything) goggles are the best bet or loosen it and then get your head out of the way when you release the last few thread of the plug.

[cymru-corrado 0]

why didnt anyone post this up before had loads of problems of airblocks in my valver.doh! all fixed now though.

[gavkt 0]

How did you elimintae your Airblock problems??

[markmcie 0]

My understanding of making sure you have no airlocks is to re-fill your system and let the engine run with the cap off the expansion tank until the coolant starts to bubble. This will force any air in the system to the top.

[ZippyVR6 0]

yes that is what the AA guy did when I blew a hose. It ran till the temp rose enough to start the water pump. which woshes all the air back to the expansion tank. keep it bubbling over for a while 5 or so mins to ensure no more air in the system then you can top up and recheck the coolant mixture is right.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yep filling via the rad hose forces air up from the bottom of the block and out via the expansion tank. When filled, run the engine until the stat opens, which will then cause the coolant level to start rising, at that point screw the cap on, take it for a run, top up in the morning. Job done ;-)

[tonytiger 0]

Never having done a coolant change before (on any car) I've got a couple of fairly basic questions:

 

Can I drain the coolant from cold, or does the car need to be run first?

 

Also, I'm in the process of changing the heater matrix, so when I refill the system (from the rad top hose) does this fill the matrix too, or is there anything else I need to do? I'm assuming that when you drain the coolant the matrix doesn't normally empty.

 

TIA.

[ZippyVR6 0]

once the coolant is in, run the car for a good few mins let the thermostadt open up and watch the level drop. (then top it up again) it will automaticly circulate round the system. just check it after a day or so to make sure the level doesn't drop.

[Supercharged 2]

Before changing it get it slightly warm (maybe wait for the 50c to register on the oil temp) - the matrix is always in circuit so yes you are changing the fluid there too...

 

The fill via top hose can be used on any car but is really only needed for the VR, I've done the G60 several times just from the tank and never had any problems - trick is (as VW say) to fill it very slowly, should take at least 5 mins to fill the system...

[tonytiger 0]

ZippyVR6, Supercharged - Thanks for the info guys :thumbleft:

Hopefully I'll get to this at the weekend - though the heater matrix replacement has now turned into a dash out job.

[TheFox_1 0]

Just done mine - pretty straight forward. The only thing I would add is that I use a funnel and a piece of pipe to avoid dumping the old coolant all over the front of the oil sump and floor! I tried a funnel that I had but the gap to put it into place is quite small and so I improvised and used an old 500ml Highland Spring water bottle to make a funnel.

[cata 0]

My car is sitting right now without coolant for a few months till it's going to be warm enough to work on again (no garage).

 

Sometimes the electric pump comes on while I'm doing some wiring but there is no coolant for it to move. Does anyone know if I can potentially damage either of the pumps if there is no coolant in there, maybe they are designed to use the coolant for lubrication while pushing it.

[cata 0]

So no one has an answer to this one? :turn-l:

[Supercharged 2]

Why don't you just unplug it?

[cata 0]

Just found out what to unplug on the CCC, easier than I thought.