Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

[Riley 0]

Ok. :bad-words: :(

 

Ive literally got two things left to check. Im sick of going over the wiring diagrams and testing for continuity/voltage/resistance etc etc so im gonna stop as everything checks out as it should. :? apart from my fuel pressure switch for over run not working (people run without with no probs)

 

1/ Knock sensor.

2/ A crack in the inlet manifold or sommet

 

So firstly, when is the knock sensor used? after warm up? the whole time? wide open thr? and how can i test it etc etc. Any! info appreciated.

 

Neil.

[Rob_B 0]

im not 100% sure when the knock sensor is used, it should be all the time though, especially on WOT. if it has any damage to the insulation then it could be giving funny reading and adding fuel or retarding the ignition as it thinks there is det. only real way to prove that would be to change it, unless someone know any tricks with it.

have you done a fuel pressure test on it?

which experts have you called about the problem?

what you could probably do with is an air/fuel ratio test being done to establish if it is running rich or lean.

[Riley 0]

Inlet manifold is off...Nothing untoward with it from what we can tell :( !

One last thing to try on the whole car, knock sensor.It just aint gonna be that though is it :(

 

Rob, Ive had a fuel pressure test with good results...And the fuel pump (genuine vag) filter, lines! and fpr are all new/replaced. :(

 

Ive spoken to Darren at gwerks, steve at pitstop, steve cresswell at c+r, a local mechanic who suggested sticky valve (so thats when i had head off) and a mechanic friend who just said lambda probe.

 

Nobody anywhere in the world knows what it is :(

[mrbeige 0]

What do you spark plugs look like?

 

Also, what did the manifold gasket look like? Did it look fully compressed across all the ports?

[Riley 0]

Edit:Yep, gasket looked fine...Wondered about it being warped? But seems ok.

 

Not good Stu :shock:

But bare in mind ive had to run the car with the wot switch cable tied up...They are really carbon'd up, and the tips are white as though its been running hot :? yet rich :?

 

[Riley 0]

I can't rest :(

 

Im bored anyway, so im gonna go back upto the unit, clean the manifold...Check it with a steel rule.And paint it silver :cuckoo:

 

Peace out...Neil.

The corrado owner with the longest ever running problem in the history of cars!

[Yandards 0]

Try this lot:

 

f so it would be worth trying to get a fault code interrogation of

> the ECU done, this would tell you what was out of range/bust. If you

> do still have a carbon can fitted then it might be worth losing and

> blanking the connections on the TB and manifold as the book says a

> shagged carbon can shut off valve could cause excess CO2 in the

> exhaust system this might mean the lambda is going out of range of

> adjustment, the ECU will fail it, go default map and then because of

> the cam the mixture will be too rich.

>

> I have a load of resistance checks but you need a VAG 1598 test

> box.

>

> Although saying that it does look like the connections that you plug

> into on the test box directly correlate to the pin numbers in the ECU

> loom plug.

>

> Anyway here is a quick list with pin numbers and values.

>

> This is with ECU loom disconnected and multimeter at ECU plug loom

> end.

>

> Supply relay for digi ECU (Ignition on but not running) pins 13+ 23 =

> battery volts.

>

> Volts for digi (Ignition on as above) pins 13+14 and then 14+29 =

> battery volts.

>

> Ignition coil wire (Ignition on again) pins 13+25 = battery volts.

>

> Idle stab valve (ignition on) pins 13+22 = battery volts.

>

> Wire from starter terminal 50 (ignition on) pull off hall sender,

> connect pins 1+13 operate starter = at least 8v.

>

> Ignition is now to be switched off.

>

> Coolant temp pins 6+10 = graph range as per pic in self study manual

> (resistance check)

>

> Intake air temp sensor, pins 6+9 = graph range as per pic in self

> study manual for coolant temp sensor.

>

> CO Pot pins 5+6 = 0-2k ohms.

>

> Idle switch pins 6+11 = max 1.5ohms, open throttle, 1- infinite ohms

>

> Full throttle switch pins 6+15 = 1 to infinite ohms, fully open

> throttle = max 1.5 ohms. (If this is wrong it will go closed loop on

> the ECU and knock the lambda out of function)

>

> The next bit is a bit weird as it requires you to stick on end of the

> multimeter probe into the ecu loom plug and another into a

> disconnected end of a sensor plug.

>

> So first one is the hall sender (which should still be unplugged)

>

> I will refer to the sender connection plug (ECU loom side, NOT sensor

> side

> obviously) as contacts 1,2 and 3. For the hall sender when looking at the

> plug side that mates with the sensor you need to have the metal bar that

> locks the plug in place uppermost. Then contact 1 is on the left, contact 2

> in the middle and contact 3 on the right.

>

> ECU Loom pin 6 to contact 1 = max 1.5 ohms

> ECU Loom pin 18 to contact 2 = max 1.5 ohms

> ECU Loom pin 8 to contact 3 = max 1.5 ohms

>

> Knock sensor is the same setup as the hall sender (metal bar on top

> etc) and the contact numbering sequence is also identical.

>

> ECU Loom pin 4 to contact 1 = max 1.5 ohms

> ECU Loom pin 7 to contact 2 = max 1.5 ohms

> ECU Loom pin 7 to contact 3 = max 1.5 ohms

>

> Finally the lambda probe wiring.

>

> This is a little vaguer, you need to connect the multimeter to pins

> 2+13 on the ECU loom plug, this will give you open resistance.

>

> If you then pull the lambda connector and connect the black or lilac

> wiring to earth you should get a max of 1.5 ohms.

>

> As for a timing check/exhaust gas adjustment there is a procedure

> based on blue temp sensor disconnection, if you can get the engine up

> to temp then switch off, then disconnect the crankcase breather hose,

> route it so that is will only pull in fresh air, restart engine allow

> rad fan to run once and then disconnect blue temp sensor. At engine

> revs of 2000-2500 rpm you should get 4-8 degrees before TDC with a

> timing light. If that is out you can adjust by turning the dizzy and

> you are aiming for a figure of 6 degrees before TDC +- 1 degree (Bit

> weird when the say that 4-8 is an acceptable range but give you a

> setting figure range of 5-7)

>

> Idle speed should be 800 rpm +- 50 rpm and exhaust co content should

> be 0.7%

> =- 0.4% Adjust these with idle screw on TB and CO screw on sensor.

>

> Finally there is a functional test of the lambda probe but as above

> you will need to source and exhaust gas analyser (Halfords sell the

> gunsons pro one for about £70 instead of £120 with the trade card)

>

> Start car, get up to 80 degree oil temp, confirm idle adjustment ok

> (as above), no exhaust system/head leaks.

>

> Check lambda probe heating (resistance stuff above)

>

> Connect up gas analyser

>

> Run engine at 2500 rpm for 1 minute come off throttle, record CO

> content.

>

> Pull FPR vacuum hose from intake manifold and seal it temporarily. CO

> content should briefly rise then fall back to noted value.

>

> If CO content does not fall then pull the lambda plug connection off,

> connect black wire or lilac wire on the ECU loom side of the lambda

> connection to earth.

>

> CO content should change.

>

> If CO content changes then get a new lambda probe.

>

> If it doesn't change then it says to carry out all the resistance

> checks I listed above (which you will have done first) and then

> finally it says you need a new ECU.

>

> Hope that helps,

[dirtytorque 0]

damn.. i :) hope he hasn't left for the unit already.

[MK1Campaign 0]

I would have burnt that car and claimed on the insurance by now

:?

[dirtytorque 0]

I would have burnt that car and claimed on the insurance by now

:?

 

 

:lol:

 

he's a stronger man than me thats for sure.

[Riley 0]

Just got back from the unit...I sat there and just looked at it while smoking a lot...and then painted inlet manifold, a crap job as i couldn't really be arsed.

 

Fecking thing :sad: I really don't know how ive kept the determination up.

 

Yanards, thanks very much for that...Ive done a hell of a lot of wire testing (everything basically, probably 3 or 4 times),but i may give that a go as soon as the inlet manifold is back on. Where is that info from if you don't mind me asking?

 

Neil.

[Supercharged 2]

Neil - if you want the KS then £30 posted to you.. let me know or I will stick on eBay...

[Riley 0]

Hi mate, Is it a genuine part?

And do you have a receipt with it? Just like to keep them all with the car thats all.

 

Is it as new/mint?

 

Neil.

[Yandards 0]

Just got back from the unit...I sat there and just looked at it while smoking a lot...and then painted inlet manifold, a crap job as i couldn't really be arsed.

 

Fecking thing :sad: I really don't know how ive kept the determination up.

 

Yanards, thanks very much for that...Ive done a hell of a lot of wire testing (everything basically, probably 3 or 4 times),but i may give that a go as soon as the inlet manifold is back on. Where is that info from if you don't mind me asking?

 

Neil.

 

VW's G60 digi workshop manual.

 

Few bits missing but you wont have the correct leads to carry out those tests unfortunately.

[Riley 0]

Big red letters

 

Ok...

 

I think...I may have found the problem, but tbh ill be pretty p|ssed off if i have.

 

Ive been told countless times that the two dots on cam sprocket should line up with a slash on the metal backplate

And this is what ive always done...

Now ive just been told that its not the correct way, and you should line the dot on the back of the cam sprocket up with the edge of the head/cam cover. :?

 

See pics.

Flywheel tdc mark lined up.

 

But my crank pully dosn't line up (and yes the crank keyway is mint/snug fit!)

 

And low and behold, the dot on the cam sprocket does not line up with the head/cam cover.

 

If i turn the flywheel to the 6deg mark, it lines up like this.

 

So what the f*ck is going on?

[dirtytorque 0]

bottom line ..

the top dead centre line on the flywheel should coincide with the tdc line on the head sprocket being flush with the face of the head.

I always use the flywheel and the head sprocket line as my references as they are the most accurate.

 

Looks like you will have to re-do the mechanical timing imo.

Whoever done it last used the wrong timing mark on the flywheel.

[Riley 0]

Cheers mate, its me thats done it and redone it countless times, the way ive been told to on here :sad: ! And!!! Two local garages have checked the static timing...Edit:And ant on here! :sad:

 

By using the two dots/slash in backplate on the cam sprocket. They do line up absolutely f*king perfectly with each other and also with the tdc at flywheel.

I can't believe its only just come to light that ive been doing it wrong!

 

So is this my problem? Are valves open when they shouldn't be? And why would bts make it run right? Im still not confident this is the problem after the sh|t ive been through with it :brickwall:

[rolex 0]

Mate, i really feel for you. It must be hell :(

 

But try not to give up hope, i onlly wish i could be more help but i dont know squat!! :shrug:

[coolrado 0]

Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it) it looks like your timing is set correctly, the lower pulley mark should be viewed either from the side or in line with the mark, the angle your pic shows it from doesnt give a very good idea of its position.

The marks will never line up absolutely perfectly and the few mm difference your pics seem to show shouldn't be a problem, even having the head skimmed will effect the relation between the pulleys, unless they are a whole tooth spacing out it should be ok, although i have driven cars that have been one tooth out and they weren't that bad, just a bit down on power or the exhaust mani was getting too hot.

 

It just seems to me to point to an electrical issue, i know it must be really annoying as you have probably checked every wire already but i just cant see a mechanical issue causing a problem that would dissapear when the WOT switch is pressed.

[Riley 0]

Oh man... :sad:

 

So who is right about the camshaft timing here?

 

Two dots lined to slash on backplate.

 

Or

 

One dot on back of cam sprocket to edge of head?

[coolrado 0]

well they are both right its just the two marks and the cover is the less accurate method but should still get you on the right tooth, you should really be able to see if its a whole tooth out either way.

 

Firstly though i would set it up using the flywheel mark and ignore the lower pulley, as its pretty much impossible for the flywheel to be wrong, just out of interest what crankshaft bolt did you use?

[Riley 0]

Hi mate, i used the mk1 dx engine bolt with the washer...but the problem was already there well before replacing it.

 

And surely both ways of setting the cam timing can't be right?

 

There is quite a difference between the two ways i reckon? Please look at the pics carefully.

Edit:Do you mewan its slightly differnt between the two ways, but still on the same tooth then? :oops:

 

Flywheel tdc mark lined up.

 

And low and behold, the dot on the cam sprocket does not line up with the head/cam cover.

 

If i turn the flywheel to the 6deg mark, it lines up like this.

[coolrado 0]

I cant really tell from that pic how far out it is, if it is a tooth width difference then yes, set the timing again using the rear mark on the camshaft pulley and the flywheel.

[Riley 0]

Tbh, i just can't get my head around it.

 

Have to correct myself i think...Its like half a tooth somehow, im getting headache again :mad2:

 

Unless the flywheel isn't just lined up right? Im tired man, every spare minute im up there f*king about with it.

[coolrado 0]

the flywheel can only go on in one possition as the bolts that hold it on are offset, they are also a very snug fit so wont allow any play, so if the marks really dont line up at either end there is something wrong somewhere, if the keyway slot is ok on the crank are you sure the key in the back of the pulley is ok and not twisted at all.