Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

[Riley 0]

Really? :( I thought that plenty of people with similar spec to mine were running the stage 5? (its a 5.5 actually iirc)

 

Just a note also, i have tried my old jabbasport chip (now sold), a standard chip (now sold), and another stage 5.5 (now sold) .And the problem was still there. I also swapped my ecu for my mates which runs fine.

 

Edit:Ive printed off that little test on the last page, i shall try it as soon as ive got it built back up.

 

Neil.

[Riley 0]

Ok, I built it back up,inlet manifold,and t-body with new gaskets.

ive done the below test.

Are we onto something here?

There are two video's of the fuel rail connector voltage as my camera batteries died.

 

Remove the injector rail plug and connect multimeter on Voltage measurment.

Switch ignition on, remove fuse 18 and then bridge connections 3+13 on the ECU loom, you should get battery volts.

 

Ok.

See below two video's...Not quite battery voltage :? It just dropped very quickly.

 

Connect the 1598/2 lead to the ECU and the ECU lead, next you will need a mechanics electrical testing screwdriver (the one with the bulb in the handle that lights up) Then remove the connector from the fuel rail to prevent the car starting. Connect the test lamp to pins 19 + 24 and operate the starter the light should flicker. This is checking the engine speed signal is functioning correctly (Not sure how it checks this as pin 19 goes to an earth on the cylinder block and pin 24 connects to the fusebox panel at connector G1 position 12.

 

Ok.

No flickering, didn't light up at all :? ...tested light on battery works fine.

 

Injector checking: Plug the test lamp into the fuel rail plug and crank the starter, the light should flicker, if it is permanently on then renew the earth strap that runs from the battery to the gearbox, use a new bolt when attaching strap to gearbox. If the light is still on continuously after changing the earth strap then you need a new ECU.

 

Same again.

No flickering, didn't light up at all :?

[Riley 0]

Bump. :(

[Riley 0]

Its never going to be fixed is it :(

 

What happened on that day 3 years ago, its like someone crept upto my car while parked up and put a spell on it :(

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

mate you have the patience of a saint i would of sent off to g-werks along time ago and said

darren please :help:

[Yandards 0]

Sorry didnt get chance to post a replay last night and would have been too tired to concentrate to give you the right answers.

 

OK unfortunately it looks like a bit of diagnostic error, all the bulb flashing tests will only flash when the starter is being cranked - ie you need to be holding the ignition key in the start position and then look at the bulb.

 

As for the first test with the volts dropping off that's my bad I'm afraid, this check should be carried out with the ECU loom disconnected from the ECU. You also need to be putting the voltage measurement between pins 12+13. I will get this all written up at some point and upload it as a monster electrical fault finding guide so I wont make this sort of mistake again.

 

Just to check a couple of other bits (although they are listed as items that you only check if the car wont start)

 

With the ECU loom connected to the ECU and ignition switched on there should be at least 9V between pins 6 + 8.

 

Again with the ECU loom connected to the ECU connect up the mechanics test screwdriver to pins 6 + 18 and crank the starter (ignition key to start position and hold it whilst observing the test light) bulb should flicker. This is testing the signal coming from the hall sender to the ECU.

 

Once more with the ECU loom connected to the ECU connect the mechanics test screwdriver to pins 13 + 25 and crank the starter (ignition to start etc) bulb should flicker. This tests the ignition signal from the digi ECU to the ignition coil (13 to battery earth and 25 to the coil)

 

You can also check that the coolant temp sensor is working correctly accross the entire range of operation, with the ECU loom connected to the ECU connect a multimeter to pins 6 + 10 and select Volts. Start the engine and allow to warm up, volts should decrease evenly as the engine warms up.

 

ISV check. ECU loom connected to ECU, ignition switch to run positions but engine not started, ISV should buzz and vibrate. Pull plug from ISV and measure resistance accross the pins on the ISV should be between 2-10 Ohms.

 

I dont know if you have access to an exhaust gas CO annalyser but if you do you can check correct function of the lambda probe:

 

Follow set-up procedure for exhaust gas annalyser.

Get engine oil temp at minimum 80 deg C

No leaks between exhaust mani and cat

No leaks on cylinder head.

Plug in CO annalyser to exhaust pipe.

Start engine, run at 2500 rpm for 1 minute.

Let engine idle for around 20 secs and then note the CO value.

Pull the FPR vacuum hose off the inlet manifold and temporarily seal it.

CO should rise briefly then go back to noted CO value.

If the the CO content does not fall then separate the lambda plug connections.

On the lambda plug ECU loom connector short out the lilac or black wire to earth.

If the CO content changes then you need a new lambda probe.

 

I know its more stuff to check but hopefully this time I have made it a bit clearer and it is making the list of potential faults get smaller.

[Riley 0]

I really don't know if i have the will to carry on, its making me feel ill :pale:

[Yandards 0]

The other thing to look at is a cracked exhaust manifold, this will throw the lambda probe off and it will attempt to autocorrect the mixture as it will think that it needs more fuel. The reason that the car runs fine with the WOT switch tied is that the lambda does not function with the WOT switch active.

[Riley 0]

Ive just tried setting the cam as people suggested, whether its right or wrong or not...f*ck knows. It didn't stop the problem anyway.

 

I f*cking give up

 

I feel physically ill, shaking, and tired. I feel like holding the throttle to the floor and just blowing the bas8ard to bits.

 

Can a moderator lock this please as its just never gonna get anywhere, cheers for the help.

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

riley is :cuckoo:

 

mate its a lovely car just save up send it to a reputable g-lader garage or maybe even pay a auto electrician to come have a look

[Goldie 2]

^^^^^^Agreed..

 

Too good to give up on Neil, call the experts in...

[VR6 0]

As requested... :cuckoo:

[VR6 0]

Unlocked as requested :grin:

[Riley 0]

Update

 

Its now running red tops...The problem is obviously still there like.

 

Ive come to the conclusion that the cause of all this is....the shell. :lol:

 

Neil.

[Riley 0]

Jesus christ! Nearly 4 years now since this started! :shock: :confused4:

[VR6 0]

Update

 

Ive come to the conclusion that the cause of all this is ....

 

Neil

 

Amended your quote for you :tongue:

[Riley 0]

...Probably never to be found. :lol: :(

 

Seriously...Thats my little update :oops:

 

These are the red tops im running, most are normally 300cc and 14ohms i think?

 

 

Neil.

[_leon_ 0]

did you ever take it to a specialist?

[flusted 0]

try a chip written for reds?

[junkie 0]

But those reds are bigger than the normal reds so it will need a more custom chip surely, and they are bigger than the greys too.

[Riley 0]

Yep, can appreciate that it ideally needs a custom chip now, its not smelling of fuel, or putting black smoke out or anything.It runs the same really, just seems to rev a little bit better low down...more responsive like.

I understand that the lambda will be correcting the fueling a little too.

 

Ive been offered a red top chip to try, so i may give that a go? worth a shot?

 

Also...Just to reitterate the problem...it intermittently pops/backfires in the inlet manifold, when this happens, the boost gauge spikes from say -20vac to 0.And it revs up slowly compared to when its cold/if i tape wot switch or plug a cold bts in.

 

did you ever take it to a specialist?

 

Nah...The possible labour charges scare the hell out of me tbh mate, if i take it anywhere they are gonna need the car for a long time going through everything. And i really can't stress how much ive tried with it.

Only thing that hasn't been replaced is the knock sensor...and im told that it wouldn't cause the problem.

And if im honest, i don't have a lot of faith...

 

Neil. :)

[dirtytorque 0]

When you changed the ecu I take it it was the whole ecu and not just chip?

 

 

Have you got the carbon canister setup?

Have you got a vacuum guage?How much vacuum does the car hold at idle ?

Some boost guages show vacuum too.

It would be nice to see what happened when you blip the throttle vacuum wise.

[_leon_ 0]

did you ever take it to a specialist?

 

Nah...The possible labour charges scare the hell out of me tbh mate, if i take it anywhere they are gonna need the car for a long time going through everything. And i really can't stress how much ive tried with it.

Only thing that hasn't been replaced is the knock sensor...and im told that it wouldn't cause the problem.

And if im honest, i don't have a lot of faith...

 

Neil. :)

 

The other side of that thinking is they may save you a fortune. You probably didn't need to replace everything you have - and could have had the issue solved by now for less than half the money. Consider saving and taking it in - then enjoy the car as you hoped for when it was bought. The current approach will rarely equal a quick fix. And besides if it is major so to speak - then wouldnt you prefer to know - rather to continue to throw money at it?

[Riley 0]

Yeah, i know what you are saying mate 8) But i can only really afford bits and bats of money here and there...I could nver really afford a 'bill' in one lump as such. Well I could...but im having to be careful as im putting money into business etc.

 

When you changed the ecu I take it it was the whole ecu and not just chip?

Yep, tried different ecu's and different chips, and different ecu's with different chips :lol:

 

 

Have you got the carbon canister setup?

Nah, got rid quite a few years ago...have tried it back on the car too...No difference.

 

Have you got a vacuum guage?How much vacuum does the car hold at idle ?

Aye...tends to sit at -20 at idle.

 

Some boost guages show vacuum too.

It would be nice to see what happened when you blip the throttle vacuum wise.

It sits as above, and blipping the throttle (first butterfly) tends to make it jump to 0 on the gauge.

 

Having just given the car a good drive, its very jerky pottering about...and its definately slower on the motorway.Obviously the lack of correct chip is causing it...Bloody injector caps broke on two original injectors too, not long since i replaced em, but they got stuck in the head so had to wind a self tapper in and pull em out. :eek:

 

Cheers guys,Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

-20.

 

ok what about the scale on the guage.

 

Is in in kpa, mbar ?