Oil temps and water temps?

[Takoon 0]

Hi there

 

Having read the forum for info on hot engines can't seem to find the answer!

 

My 93 VR6 (65,000) runs fine but when I'm doing 90 mph on way back from work the oil temp rises to 120c water temp sits at 90c tho, if I stop in traffic or go round town the water temp rises to about 102c (on gauge).

 

Is this a sign of problems to come?

 

cheers

[Rams 0]

Water temp is ok mate, mine and a friend vr, reached 110 in traffic. The oil is boarder line, if you are looking art keeping your C for a while then I would get a Mocca oil cooler or something along those lines. When the oil gets very hot it tends to break down the actual oil and if it gets too thin then it can leak through the seals giving you a problem.

 

Best oil temperature is around 90 / 95 give or take a few degrees.

 

I drove back from West Sussex on Sat and my oil temperature reached 124 so I backed off straight away, it was a shame as I was racing a Porsche Carrera 4, its like the one featured in bad boys but he wasnt obviously going hell for leather as I was permantly with him at 140!

 

Just going back to you water temp, the cooler the better, so have a look at posts on here about modfying air feed to the engine induction system and try and cool it that way as a start.

 

I am considering taking out my front fog lights and making an air feed there rtather than the one I have got under the bumper - were the mesh / plastic is. If I was to go through a puddle I could suck up water into my engine which would be a bad move. I do like the fog lights, especially the look of the c's with Side lights and fogs on, they look so wicked.

 

It always goes back to looks or performance, to try and get the two right is very hard or just very, very expensive.

 

Have you got a cold air feed anywhere on your C? There are 2 classic points, the removable of the cartbon canister that lives in the inner wing on the drivers side and there is also a small cover to the lefyt of the radiator fan that can be taken away to get air through that way. If you are not sure on the above then give me or anyone else a shout and they will help ya out. Be cool 8)

[stormseeker 0]

, so have a look at posts on here about modfying air feed to the engine induction system and try and cool it that way as a start.

 

 

Supplying the engine with cool air to burn has no effect on the temperature the engine runs at. It's purely to get more oxygen (cooler air = denser air = more oxygen in a given volume) into the combustion chambers. This could in fact make the engine run hotter if you take full advantage of the (tiny) boost in performance this will give you....

 

Supplying more cool air into the grille to cool the radiator is another matter....

[vr6storm 0]

Water temp is ok mate, mine and a friend vr, reached 110 in traffic.

 

Best oil temperature is around 90 / 95 give or take a few degrees.

 

 

 

rams, ive had oil temps of 118+ but under 124 on long M-way runs in the 2 years i've owned my VR6.........and so far(*touch wood)have'nt had any problems..........what you have to remember is that the VR engine is quite hot running and it really only is when the temp gets to constantly 130 that you have to begin to worry........believe me i'm really paranoid about oil/water temps with mine............also i believe the optimum operating oil temp is 108(can't remember who stated it but it was someone well-respected in VW circles)

 

 

also the water temp guage isn't the most accurate either as mine reads approx 100 when it is in fact only about 90(checked using VAG-COM)

 

 

Takoon,if you are worried about it take it past a well-respected VW specialist and get them to check the cooling system

 

also if you have the original grille fitted check to see if its the "closed" slats or "open" slats one.....as this cheap "mod" brings down the temps a little bit

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The oil is boarder line, if you are looking art keeping your C for a while then I would get a Mocca oil cooler or something along those lines. When the oil gets very hot it tends to break down the actual oil and if it gets too thin then it can leak through the seals giving you a problem.

 

Mocca is a blend of coffee mate! Mocal is what you mean. I have one on my VR6 which dropped the oil temp from 114 degrees at 80mph to 96 degrees. Much more like it.

 

Oil molecules shear apart at certain temperatures, depending on oil quality. Usually around 150+ on cheaper oils and 250+ on expensive hybrids.

 

The VR is just a hot engine because A) it's in a confined space and B) the cylinders are very close together. This is why the VR has such a huge radiator, electric and engine driven pumps, two fans and a big coolant capacity. It still needs all the help it can get, which is why a Mocal is a good investment.

 

Kev

[vr6storm 0]

The oil is boarder line, if you are looking art keeping your C for a while then I would get a Mocca oil cooler or something along those lines..

 

Mocca is a blend of coffee mate! Mocal is what you mean.

 

 

now now kev :wink: ............you must have noticed Rams's spellchecker is kaput :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Supercharged 2]

There was a guy at the Volksfest on sunday selling Mocal's for £55, he had 2 dirrerent ones, one about twice the size of the other...

 

(I was going to get one but there was another guy selling cappucino's for just £1.25!...sorry!)

 

...both the same price, this was for just the radiator part which was generic so i'd have to come up with some sort of mounting bracket, he also sold the braided pipes and the thermostats but couldn't tell me the difference between the dirrerent ones he had there?? so I thought a bit more investigation needed (I have been thinking about it for a while but my engine temp reached 130 down the A12 and I wasn't working it that hard either!) - maybe best to buy as a kit, what else is needed? is a fan neccessary or does it depend where its mounted?

 

Royal Albert HAll??... Royal Albert 'All??

[W3RKD 0]

the favorite place to mount the rad on a 60 is in front of the charger on the x-member next to the rad . only thing is it is quite a tight fit if you are still using the std "crap" baffle box ..but this i say is the best place to put it as its right in the air flow.. the differance in the sandwich plates is one will have a thermo and one wont differance being the one with will only open when oil reaches around 80deg so oil will not run round cooler until this temp is reached...

hope this makes some sence as it has been a long day... :lol: :lol:

[Rams 0]

kevhaywire, Thanks for correct me. My favourite is Nescafe Gold Blend!! lol!

 

I was only trying to help the chap out as he was not sure what temps are safe and what not.....

 

stormseeker,

 

Removing this part to the left of the rad will give dense / more air to cool the rad. This is what I mean.

 

Im sure he wants more performance with doing the mod I suggested as most of us here have done something with the air box or induction kit so I was trying to get him slightly better response and a way in which he would benifit from the air ways.

 

Also, making your C, such cooler air is a good thing, the fact that the engine works more efficently doesnt mean it will get hotter :)

 

I think you mean if it works faster it gets hotter, but thats not teh case as the faster you go with air feeds to engine and rad then your water temp will cool down.

 

Oil temp will increase hence why I suggest the Nescafe oil cooler. :D

 

I believe the recommended oil temp is around 90 degrees or there abouts so 120 is to hot as Kev repeated..... the oil breaks down and can result in all sorts of problems. This weather is where we want to drive all the time and cruise etc, etc, so it got to be a great mod to do if Kev can achieve oil temps like 80 /90 in this ambient weather. His engine will be at a steady oil temp and water temp so giving th ecars engine the balance it needs. 8)

[Takoon 0]

Thanks for your replys !

 

Where can you get the open slatted grille from?, is it a vag item as I have the closed slatted one

 

Gonna have the coolant changed and rad flushed see if it helps.

 

Does anyone know of a good vag specialist in sussex as I use qst in haywards heath at the moment and he's more of an Audi specialist.

 

cheers

[Rams 0]

Takoon, When you get the coolant flushed, try and get the G12 coolant from VW.Its around a fiver for the bottle and you will need a couple if not 3? I didnt see any larger sizes at my dealer......

 

They will need to completely rinse out the old coolant as the G12 would turn your coolant into jelly.

 

Once you have got G12 into your system you can adD G11 but its better to stick with G12. Its a higher grage coolant. All VW,Audi comes with it as standard.

[Rory 0]

Speaking of oil temp, how long should it take to get up to temp??????

 

Mine takes about 5-6 miles to get to 90 degrees

[Rams 0]

Same as mine, it depends how cool the oil was when you started your journey and what speeds you do and what revs etc.

[Rory 0]

Thats up to maybe 4000 rpm before changing and from cold oil ie not started that day.

 

If a flog it all the way home maybe 98 degrees

[Scott 0]

Thats up to maybe 4000 rpm before changing and from cold oil ie not started that day.

 

If a flog it all the way home maybe 98 degrees

 

Your not doing your engine any favours mate...... :roll:

[Rams 0]

Rory, They recommend that you stay at 3000 RPM or less till you engine reaches a good condition of oil temperature. Around 90 - 95 degrees is best before you start nailing it. Even when my car reached 96 degrees I still bed her in gentely untill she is the 100 mark.

 

I always take it easy and travelling to work every morning the same cars over take me then I end up over taking them once the oil is at good temperatures.

[Scott 0]

My exact thoughts - my missus even takes the piss as the first thing I do when I have started the car is set the MFA so I can watch the oil temp :oops:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

kevhaywire, Thanks for correct me. My favourite is Nescafe Gold Blend!! lol!

 

I was only trying to help the chap out as he was not sure what temps are safe and what not.....

 

Sorry Rams mate, I was only jesting....no offense meant.

 

For what it's worth, I mounted mine in front of the radiator. I removed the entire slam panel assembly and spent an afternoon making up brackets. Space is tight but it's well worth the effort. It was suggested to me to mount it in the wheelarch where the G60 intercooler would normally be, but I felt doing it my way was easier. I will upload a pic soon.

 

Kev

[Kevin Bacon 5]

There was a guy at the Volksfest on sunday selling Mocal's for £55, he had 2 dirrerent ones, one about twice the size of the other...

 

You need a 13 row by 245mm one.

 

is a fan neccessary or does it depend where its mounted?

 

A fan would be useful for when you're stuck in traffic, a small 12V Server rack one or something, but the flow of air will cool the oil down once you're on the move.

 

Kev

[vr6storm 0]

Takoon, When you get the coolant flushed, try and get the G12 coolant from VW.Its around a fiver for the bottle and you will need a couple if not 3? I didnt see any larger sizes at my dealer......

 

They will need to completely rinse out the old coolant as the G12 would turn your coolant into jelly.

 

Once you have got G12 into your system you can adD G11 but its better to stick with G12. Its a higher grage coolant. All VW,Audi comes with it as standard.

 

 

 

NOOOOO!!!!!!!!!......whatever you do....DO NOT MIX G12 with G11.........unless it is G12+

 

yes Ram's G12 was maybe a better grade coolant than the G11 but the G12 was specifically "made" for the newer generation engines.....whereas G11 was "designed" for the older generation VR's and others.........and as i'm led to believe it isnt as good an idea to change from G11 to G12 as what used to be recommended........this is probably why they have started doing G12+ which can be mixed with both G11 and G12

[Supercharged 2]

Yes, if you go from G11 to G12 you need to completly flush the system first, but as vr6storm, says G12+ is all thats available now and will mix with both but i'd still rather make sure clean water was flowing through the system before changing coolant type just to make sure there arn't any blockages caused by corrosion etc.

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

but as vr6storm , says G12 is all thats available now and will mix with both but

 

It's G12+ that mixes with both G11 and G12.

 

Why didn't VW call it G11.5 or something... ;)

[G60 0]

whats this... you can't get G11 anymore??

 

i use mostly water and i still have a full 4L G11 left.......but still! ..bluegreen is so much prettier than pinkred :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

whats this... you can't get G11 anymore??

 

Nope, a VW white paper has stated that G11 has been found to cause corrosion, but I don't really believe that as it's been in use for nearly 2 decades. Perhaps on alloy to alloy engines? Best bet is to stick with G12+ as that's all that's available now.

 

Kev

[Rory 0]

Thats up to maybe 4000 rpm before changing and from cold oil ie not started that day.

 

If a flog it all the way home maybe 98 degrees

 

Your not doing your engine any favours mate...... :roll:

 

Thats an 'if', i only did it once cos some kid was up my a**e in a rubbish car. SHouldnt have risen to it really