GazzaG60 0 Posted October 3, 2005 my jabba charger build did 30k or so with 5k on A 65MM. Ive since rebuilt it with the help of h100 vw and done a further 15k or so on it on the 65mm. no issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60pops 0 Posted October 3, 2005 First one i did about 10,000 miles and then sold the car to biggrimm off the forum who is still using it without another rebuild as far as i know. The second one i did about 45,000 miles before that got rebuilt by Steve (pitstop) in June, he said the inside was fine and could have probably done some more miles. Both cars have 68mm pulleys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 3, 2005 First one i did about 10,000 miles and then sold the car to biggrimm off the forum who is still using it without another rebuild as far as i know. The second one i did about 45,000 miles before that got rebuilt by Steve (pitstop) in June, he said the inside was fine and could have probably done some more miles. Both cars have 68mm pulleys. sounds fair enough...maybe theyve slipped on the quality of parts over the years Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted October 3, 2005 Yip, mine is still fine from the rebuild that g60pops had done and it's still got another 20K till it's due again. I'll be getting it done well before then though and I'll be taking it (or sending the charger) down to Darren @ G-Werks for a full blend. I think stevo29's hit the nail on the head, cheaper parts as the years have gone on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keithmac 0 Posted October 3, 2005 I seem to remember reading they went chasing the monet on the 1.8t`s and let the older car servicing slip a little, could be wrong. Maybe me, stevo and reily are just very unlucky.. an mine was done when they couldn`t soaure the correct quaility bits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted October 3, 2005 keithmac, when Daz opened my 10K, 1year since service charger, the seals were FUBAR'd and several of the bearings hadn't been replaced and were showing serious signs of wear... I'd only sent it to him as there was a little oil in the outlet and the charger was off the engine anyway while I was building a new engine.... He's currently got my spare charger which has had to have a new scroll in it due to some seriously dodgy welding work where the apex strip should sit done during it's last service (which I have the receipt for) from around 25K ago... Guess who had done both of these chargers before Daz got hold of 'em and sorted 'em out??? Ja,[insert sheep type noises here....] ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keithmac 0 Posted October 3, 2005 Sounds about right, at least you can sleep easier now you know they`ve been done properly 8). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2005 Well, i've got my re-build kit sat here...... I'm fairly happy with the Seals i have ( NAK viton as used by KK i believe) The bearings are all as OEM i.e FAG and one Torrington. I know there are uprated bearings for the secondary shaft which darren and others use..... From what i have found these are made by SNR and have uprated seals and a super high temp grease allowing them to spin to 17k rpm!? I have to say they seem to be difficult to source and aren't listed on the SNR website. Difficult but not impossible....... so i'll probably get some of them to be on the safe side. And finally the apex strips..... to me these seem to be the worst things as they have no markings on to allow you to find what material they are. The ones i have are a grey brown colour... apparantly 55% bronze and ptfe iirc. Whether or not the material has been tempered to pre-shrink it i don't know.... in a way i wish they weren't cut lenghts so i could have tempered it myself before fitting! My main worry is that the material is gonna be too hard and wear my casing. Still, i'm planning on a rebuild pretty much every year on my new project so i guess i'll give them a few months before cracking the thing open and checking whats going on. Brings me to another question.... anyone tried getting the g-lader case hard anodised??? doing this could greatly increase the service life of the casing..... i guess its possible it could make the casing too hard and make it hard for the seals to bed in. I'm sure someone must have had a go at it? And finally..... anyone got any ideas on ptfe spray to keep the charger lubed? Don't really fancy the mess of the kluber and as i'm gonna run with either twin intakes or with the return caped off i'm gonna have to spray something in there! Any comments appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 6, 2005 g werks sells the lube ....i have the fag numbers them high speed bearings kk sell if you want em? btw....got some kluber on ebay if your quick? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2005 I'd be interested to know the part numbers.... i was under the impression the best available FAG ones were 6002 and 6003 C3 RSR. These are rates to 13k. I think a bunch of the tuning companies got together and asked SNR to produce an uprated bearing for them specifically for charger re-builds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 6, 2005 here they are, the 2 in the middle of the pic...kk claimed theyre 23k ...please yourself if you believe him/me im sure theres many grades of bearing though..there must differant quality to what they use in wheel barrows compared to planes etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 6, 2005 i feel the apex strips caused my lack of performance in jabba rebuild, theyd shrunk alot...like i said the charger made 16psi at redline , but now its boosting alot harder at lower revs which really makes the car fly :) my KK strips were a tan/yellow color and darren said they were oem ones like he uses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2005 Thats interesting..... the secondary shaft bearings you have pictured there have metal shields on them as opposed to having the complete rubber seals ( differece between a 6003.2rsr and a 6003.2zr) I had wondered about using the metal shield ones but i'm sure there is a reason why vw used to rubber seal ones. I thought the tuners (bar tek, gwerks etc) used an uprated rubber seal bearing? One of the 'chargers i have is an original VW one and has dark grey apex strips. I think VW did use dark grey and then a light beigh strip. Not sure what the difference is! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 6, 2005 these are from kk ...g werks use the rubber sealed ones in theirs , only time will tell how they last those strips...i think one version is harder than the other. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2005 Cheers steve. I'm in two minds whether to try those metal sheild ones or source the uprated rubber ones.... a little tricky and expensive. I'm just thinking that little bits of crap may get into those metal sheild ones and cause trouble! I'm gonna look into getting my case anodised..... i've got a couple of chargers to play with and i need something that will stand some revs......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 6, 2005 i think any uprated bearing will stop that shaft being a problem area....still doesnt make the charger safe to rev hard though btw ive emailed kk about the seal thing...im intrested too, although he doesnt seem to get many complaints :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2005 I'm not looking to go smaller that a 65, may even stick to a 68 but the engine will be going to 7k ish. It will get regular re-builds and very regular oil changes. Just looking to try a few of my theories. It seems that everyone is thinking along the same lines at the moment and realising that the key to a lot of power is flow not boost..... and the main restriction to flow it the head. In fact if you can increase the flow and thus keep boost down your going to take strain off the charger. Obviously the 'charger must have a critical frequency where it will blow apart regardless of what you do to it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted October 6, 2005 The walls of the displacer start to flap/move at 18k. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2005 Cheers darren, thats what i needed to know.... Have you seen the displacer that rp-motorsport are making?? I'm not entirely convinced as they seem to have made it thicker and of aluminium. i would imagine this would make it a fair bit heavier than the magnesium alloy of the original and to be honest may not give any advantages. Am i right in thinking that a 65mm pulley taken to 7k engine speed relates to just over 14k charger speed? I'm gonna be needing a toothed belt kit for my project. What equivalent pulley sizes are available with the g-werks kit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted October 6, 2005 Cheers darren, thats what i needed to know.... Have you seen the displacer that rp-motorsport are making?? I'm not entirely convinced as they seem to have made it thicker and of aluminium. i would imagine this would make it a fair bit heavier than the magnesium alloy of the original and to be honest may not give any advantages. Am i right in thinking that a 65mm pulley taken to 7k engine speed relates to just over 14k charger speed? I'm gonna be needing a toothed belt kit for my project. What equivalent pulley sizes are available with the g-werks kit? Best to mail me... Im sure we can sort you out with what you are needing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
