Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

send the ecu to united motorsports and they can remove sai from ecu or apparently you can fit a resistor to keep the ecu happy , don't ask me how or what though , united motorsports was my choice ;)

[J.C 10]

My SAI relay is still in place, it's just not switching anything, no pump or wiring.

Doesn't throw up any codes,

The only codes I get are,

S2,B1 and S2,B2 heater element codes and Can bus errors for cluster and ABS

[swiftkid 1]

Yea been trying to get in touch with united motorsport but can I hell get hold of anyone, tried calling and emailing a number of times and no response.

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Matt is really not the best for contacting but the work he does is top notch! I find that his website e-mail system is pants and he works on a US time zone compared with a UK one! Most e-mails I get from him are gone past 1 am!

 

I email him directly at [email protected] instead of using their poor website.

 

Shame he doesn't come across too well but he is really busy so must be in high enough demand to not have enough hours in his day to not worry about fixing his website

[swiftkid 1]

Yea, I've tried the email. Makes me think how the hell am I supposed to order anything if I can't get hold of him.

 

On a separate note, does anyone know if the audi manifolds are different to the vw ones?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Ahh afraid I can't help anymore than that with him. I ordered something of him the other week and I got a response within 24 hours

 

There isn't a difference AFAIK.

[swiftkid 1]

Well I need to check on what type mine are but I think they are the same as mk5 which come off at an angle unlike the mk4 ones that are angled downwards. Also they look a similar angle to the standard VR6 ones... interesting!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

United Motorsport are bloody useless at communication. You could get a quick reply, a reply 2 weeks later, or no reply at all. It's no way to run a business. Best way to contact Matt I would say is send him a PM from the VR6OC. He seems to spend a lot of his time on there I've noticed.

 

The SAI function itself can be mapped out and it's in several maps, but as I keep saying, leave the SAI relay in place or the ECU won't give you long term adaptations. It needs to 'see' the relay, whether the SAI software engages or not.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Will the 2.8 4mo engine run with aftermarket management? Like mine DTA? When I got mine it was running way too rich 1 new map later by a guy I can only describe as a Ecu Genius I get over 30mpg average running around from an R32 I get less from the 2.6 Vectra Daily

 

It will indeed. Best way to run any 24V imo.

[swiftkid 1]

Kev, I read in another topic that you tried to use the standard VR downpipes to connect to the mk5 manifold. How did you get on with that? Do they need substantial modification?

 

Well I'm doing the wiring myself and I'm about there, just a couple of bits I need to sort out now. Looking at the diagram I have 4 pins from the ecu relating to SAI stuff. One goes to the relay then to fusebox power, one to N220 exhaust flap valve (will be removed), one to N401 Suction jet pump valve (remove?) and one to N112 SAI inlet valve then fusebox power. So am I giving power to the relay and then disconnecting the valve? Or do I need to do something about the SAI valve as well? I can upload the diagram if it will help anyone to help me!

[perksy 11]

hi guys spent a few weeks reading this from front to back must say very good read for anyone who is going to take this on

 

so anyway i was wondering there isnt a lot on how to wire anything up really im thinking of just starting with a 2.8 and well was wondering how people have wired it up

 

1-have you used the 24v fuel pump relay and just linked them to the vr6 fuel pump power in G1

 

2-have you done away with the 24v fuel pump relay and just wired straight into the vr6 wiring loom and using the vr6 fuel pump relay?

 

or 3 - something completely different haha

 

well any help would be great

 

cheers John

[swiftkid 1]

I'm doing wiring from an Audi A3 3.2 point of view and had planned to reuse the VR6 fuel pump relay.

 

Quick question for all those in search of mpg signal... have any of you got pin 81 connected from the ECU? T121/81 that is. I've been looking and it seems that I don't have a pin in T121/81 but apparently the 1.8t guys are saying that that is the MPG signal. It looks like the MPG signal on the corrado ECU is T68/51 which goes to a 1 pin plug near the fusebox, its a purple/white wire that connects to a white wire that then goes to T28/26. Some people are saying it is tacho related but it would be nice if it is the MPG signal.

 

Also if anyone has done the wiring has a couple of minutes spare I wouldn't mind double checking my diagrams against theirs!

[J.C 10]

I'm doing wiring from an Audi A3 3.2 point of view and had planned to reuse the VR6 fuel pump relay.

 

Quick question for all those in search of mpg signal... have any of you got pin 81 connected from the ECU? T121/81 that is. I've been looking and it seems that I don't have a pin in T121/81 but apparently the 1.8t guys are saying that that is the MPG signal. It looks like the MPG signal on the corrado ECU is T68/51 which goes to a 1 pin plug near the fusebox, its a purple/white wire that connects to a white wire that then goes to T28/26. Some people are saying it is tacho related but it would be nice if it is the MPG signal.

 

Also if anyone has done the wiring has a couple of minutes spare I wouldn't mind double checking my diagrams against theirs!

 

That's interesting, all I thought was that the 24v engines conveyed the MPG signal via CAN BUS,

half way down this page http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?5797918-Mk4-AFP-VR6-swap-into-CE2-MK2&p=78729637 there's a pinout chart, it says 81 is for the instroment cluster,

If i get some spare time I'll try and have a look at mine

[perksy 11]

I'm doing wiring from an Audi A3 3.2 point of view and had planned to reuse the VR6 fuel pump relay.

 

Quick question for all those in search of mpg signal... have any of you got pin 81 connected from the ECU? T121/81 that is. I've been looking and it seems that I don't have a pin in T121/81 but apparently the 1.8t guys are saying that that is the MPG signal. It looks like the MPG signal on the corrado ECU is T68/51 which goes to a 1 pin plug near the fusebox, its a purple/white wire that connects to a white wire that then goes to T28/26. Some people are saying it is tacho related but it would be nice if it is the MPG signal.

 

Also if anyone has done the wiring has a couple of minutes spare I wouldn't mind double checking my diagrams against theirs!

 

cheers mate i wonder how different the r32 is to 24v

i have found some wiring diagrams on the net for the 2.8 and the r32 maybe i'll compare dont suppose you know which wires you are gunna put into G1 in fact more to the point

The red and yellow that goes in think its z1 or summit what are you gunna do about that?

would you mind if i had a little look over how you plan to wire it up? understand if you dont

 

o and while on the wiring questions does any one know where a brown plug in the wiring in the loom to the back think of the top of my head the colours are yellow and grey and white i just wrote on it ecu loom but i havnt got my loom to hand to trace where they go car is a vr6? sorrry a little of subject just wondered if that has anything to do with the fuel pump

o found this

Edited April 8, 2014 by perksy

[perksy 11]

That's interesting, all I thought was that the 24v engines conveyed the MPG signal via CAN BUS,

half way down this page http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?5797918-Mk4-AFP-VR6-swap-into-CE2-MK2&p=78729637 there's a pinout chart, it says 81 is for the instroment cluster,

If i get some spare time I'll try and have a look at mine

 

cheers for that link lad

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

That wire is for the diagnostics. Signal on grey, power on yellow.

 

I'll be very surprised if there was a specific pin for mpg signal. The inputs to the mk4 cluster don't have a mpg specific pin suggesting that the mpg is over the canbus. I have access to a bosch ecu manual so I'll look into it!

[perksy 11]

That wire is for the diagnostics. Signal on grey, power on yellow.

 

I'll be very surprised if there was a specific pin for mpg signal. The inputs to the mk4 cluster don't have a mpg specific pin suggesting that the mpg is over the canbus. I have access to a bosch ecu manual so I'll look into it!

 

 

cheers Sean take it there not needed after the conversion then

[swiftkid 1]

if it's mk4 base take a look here. The man above might be able to help, you did the conversion yourself didn't you Sean?

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196-OEM-MK4-management-wiring-gt-Mk1-2-3-harness-install-FAQ

 

That would be useful if you could have a look Sean, I would like to have everything working when I do the conversion.

 

Perksy I'm on my mobile at the moment but I'll do a full write up of what I'm planning on doing once I get a chance

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Yeah I did do my own conversion SwiftKid, I'll help where I can!

 

Perksy, You don't need the yellow line. I left diagnostics already in the car alone and ran the diagnostics from the ECU to the diagnostics block behind the dash above the centre tunnel. Simples :)

[perksy 11]

if it's mk4 base take a look here. The man above might be able to help, you did the conversion yourself didn't you Sean?

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196-OEM-MK4-management-wiring-gt-Mk1-2-3-harness-install-FAQ

 

That would be useful if you could have a look Sean, I would like to have everything working when I do the conversion.

 

Perksy I'm on my mobile at the moment but I'll do a full write up of what I'm planning on doing once I get a chance

 

 

cheers for that swift kid that link was very useful good read

 

and yeah id be interested to read how you plan to do yours seems like everyone do theres slightly different or as the thais say

 

same same but different haha

 

has to be said this is a great thread cheers for the links again guys

[perksy 11]

Yeah I did do my own conversion SwiftKid, I'll help where I can!

 

Perksy, You don't need the yellow line. I left diagnostics already in the car alone and ran the diagnostics from the ECU to the diagnostics block behind the dash above the centre tunnel. Simples :)

 

argh good idea at least then you dont need to mess around mounting the other one or have it hanging loose some where

 

i like it sean cheers :thumb right:

[KipVR 1]

hi guys spent a few weeks reading this from front to back must say very good read for anyone who is going to take this on

 

so anyway i was wondering there isnt a lot on how to wire anything up really im thinking of just starting with a 2.8 and well was wondering how people have wired it up

 

1-have you used the 24v fuel pump relay and just linked them to the vr6 fuel pump power in G1

 

2-have you done away with the 24v fuel pump relay and just wired straight into the vr6 wiring loom and using the vr6 fuel pump relay?

 

or 3 - something completely different haha

 

well any help would be great

 

cheers John

 

Hi pal, I haven't got my wiring diagrams to hand at the moment, but I do know I plugged everything into the existing VR setup, I bought some connector pins from eBay and plugged the 24v wires into the g1/g2 connectors where possible. However I did have to be careful what powered up what, because of the load differences, and not wanting to overload any circuits. You can use the VR fp relay no problem. I'll post what goes where tomorrow if I can.

[perksy 11]

Hi pal, I haven't got my wiring diagrams to hand at the moment, but I do know I plugged everything into the existing VR setup, I bought some connector pins from eBay and plugged the 24v wires into the g1/g2 connectors where possible. However I did have to be careful what powered up what, because of the load differences, and not wanting to overload any circuits. You can use the VR fp relay no problem. I'll post what goes where tomorrow if I can.

 

 

cheers kip that would great if you could share how you wired up yours

 

so here is where im at wiring wise, engine is a 2.8 24v aue (i know not an r32 im a pussy but the 2.8 was a good price i think for everything i got plus i didnt wanna blow a r32 up trying to get it in haha)

O should add this engine was still in the car running when i picked it up and took it out myself to make sure i had everything i wanted /needed haha well i think i did

 

 

so ecu sent to stealth and de immobilised (cheers guys amazingly fast service sent it wednesday had it back first thing monday morning)did have the clocks keys and rings so didnt really need to do this but just decided it was the better option and one thing less to try and and work around or think could be the problem

 

 

ive used the vr starter motor wiring from to F in the fuse/relay panel so havent touched this one bit.

^^^ i was wondering weather i needed to connect the 24v to this but as im not using the 24v fuse board or relay panel ive just left this loose in the bay

 

engine does turn over but not surprised by this as thats just a case of putting power to the starter motor

 

 

so now for the fun part haha so to make it easy for people to change and edit ive used the great write up that rubjonny did on clubgti and ill just keep the stuff how i wired mine up so to make easy for people to change and edit after the pin number ive left that box as rubjonny has written as then i'll leave a gap for people to put in where they have put there wires and hopefully this should really help people get an idea of how other people have wired there cars up

 

o and before people say ive copied this and it still doesnt work well this isn't a fool proof guide to fit an engine its just so maybe people can get an idea of where they might have gone wrong and to share info and things they have learnt if they choose, o and if people make changes could they please use a different colour to make it easy to see where they have changed please.

 

original thread - http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196-OEM-MK4-management-wiring-gt-Mk1-2-3-harness-install-FAQ

 

 

 

T6 - brown 6 pin connector

 

1 - G1/10 - - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below!

2 - G1/3 - - Fuel pump relay earth trigger

3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor

4 - G2/9 - - Permanent live to ECU

5 - G1/8 - - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc

6 - G1/8 - - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway

 

 

 

T10 - orange 10 pin connector

 

1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line

2 - bin - - MPG signal

3 - G1/3 - - Fuel pump relay earth trigger (3 bin Use original wires for reverse switch)

4 - - -

5 - - -

6 - - - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender

7 - - - Aircon

8 - - - Aircon

9 - G1/12 - - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well

10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch

 

 

 

T10w - white connector

1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU

but thats all the information I have currently!

2 - vag-com port - - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW

3 - vag-com port - - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW

4 - clutch pedal switch - -

5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models

7 - - -

8 - - - EPC fault lamp

9 - - - Crash signal

10- - - Emmissions fault lamp

 

 

 

T10e - black 10 pin connector

 

1 - - - cruise control switch

2 - - - cruise control switch

3 - - - cruise control switch

4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case

5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case

6 - - -

7 - - -

8 - - -

9 - - - cruise control switch

10- - -

 

 

T14a - 14-pin connector

 

1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - - Oil pressure switch, see notes below

2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer

3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer

4 - G2/3 - - Coolant sender for dash

5 - Z/1 - - Fuel pump live for injectors

6 - Z/1 - - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine

7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth

8 - Z/1 - - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines)

9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender

10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS

^^^^or - - - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels

11 - - - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed

12 - - - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster)

13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines.

 

T2: (Only on looms with an ECU relay)i dont think i have this but i do have a random relay which im not sure what it is so could it be this ? pic below

1 blk/pur ecu relay pin 87 G1/10 Coilpack & ECU power feed

 

 

[perksy 11]

T6 - brown 6 pin connector

 

1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below!

2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger

3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor

4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU

5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc

6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway

 

 

 

T10 - orange 10 pin connector

 

1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line

2 - bin - - MPG signal

3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger

4 - - -

5 - - -

6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender

7 - - - Aircon

8 - - - Aircon

9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well

10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch

 

 

 

T10w - white connector

1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU

but thats all the information I have currently!

2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW

3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW

4 - clutch pedal switch - -

5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models

7 - - -

8 - - - EPC fault lamp

9 - - - Crash signal

10- - - Emmissions fault lamp

 

 

 

T10e - black 10 pin connector

 

1 - - - cruise control switch

2 - - - cruise control switch

3 - - - cruise control switch

4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case

5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case

6 - - -

7 - - -

8 - - -

9 - - - cruise control switch

10- - -

 

 

T14a - 14-pin black connector

 

1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below

2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer

3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer

4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash

5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors

6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine

7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth

8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines)

9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender

10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS

^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels

11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed

12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster)

13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines.

 

 

 

so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire

so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha

 

o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming

 

so

 

G1 white connector

 

1 -

2 -

3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3

4 -

5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector)

6 -

7 -

8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6

9 -

10 - T6 brown/1

11 -

12 - T10 orange/9

 

 

 

G2 white connector

 

1 -

2 -

3 -

4 -

5 -

6 -

7 -

8 -

9 - T6 brown/4

10 -

11 -

12 -

 

 

Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6

 

earth - T14a/9

 

well hope this helps people help me haha

 

any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated

 

cheers John

Edited April 13, 2014 by perksy

[swiftkid 1]

I'm afraid I'm not 100% sure on the above because I'm working from a MK5/Audi A3 base, this has a fusebox in the engine bay so doesn't have all the coloured plugs. This is what I plan to do, T121 is the main ECU plug which is known as J220 in the wiring diagram, lets call the fusebox in the engine bay fusebox A, this has 2 big plugs going to it - T40 & T26. I'd appreciate if anyone has any comments or can confirm what I've done.

 

F plug

1-Starter wiring, Use corrado wiring

3-Alternator wiring, Corrado

 

G1

1-not used

2-Ambient air temp sensor, use corrado (connects to G2/2)

3-Fuel pump earth trigger, T121/65

4-Ignition live, T121/21 & Ignition coils (T40/33, fusebox A in engine bay)

5-Earth

6

7-ECU relay earth trigger, T121/23

8-fuel pump live (20A fused), Lambda sensors (T26/16 & T26/23 fusebox A) & MAF T26/9

9-

10-ECU relay ignition live, T121/3

11-Speed sender, I don't have this wire but needs putting in, think its T121/54?

12-Tacho signal, for the mk5 apparently I need to put a wire in T121/37

 

G2

1-Oil temp sender, use corrado

2-Ambient air temp sensor, use corrado (connects to G1/2)

3-Coolant temp sender, use corrado

4-PCV valve T40/26

5-unused

6-unused

7-unused

8-Fuel pump live, T40/37

9-Permanent live, T121/62 ECU - unsure about this as its unfused and needs a fuse, anyone confirm this?

10-Oil pressure switch, use corrado

11-Oil pressure switch, use corrado

12-

 

Z - Injectors T40/21

 

An additional note, the 109 ecu relay will need changing for a no. 30 relay, unsure exactly why as yet so clarification on this would be good.

 

Now I've got some questions I'm hoping people can answer a few questions please

1. I'm leaving the SAI wiring in, going to put a 330 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor in but there is a power feed to it, where has everyone given power to the SAI from?

2. Is there any difference between fuel pump relays? I was just going to leave the Corrado one in

3. Has everyone used the corrado blue temp sensor and swapped plugs or used the 24v one? It fits in the housing just wondering if it needs swapping

4. T121/66 to rad fan control unit, has everyone just cut this and left the corrado rad fan control unit to do its own thing?

5. N80, Variable valve timing does this go to G1/8? I have written this down somewhere but can't find it.

 

Got a few more bits I need to check but I'll leave that here for now.

Edited April 13, 2014 by swiftkid